Where's the first place your mind goes when you don’t stick a move?
If you’re like most climbers, it’s probably your finger strength, or tension, or even your effort, and you’re already considering what hangboard protocol to use or some front lever workout.
But it’s possible you’re looking in the wrong direction entirely...
Read the rest on the blog!
Watch the video on YouTube!
_________________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
_________________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Will Anglin is one of the founders of Tension Climbing, a company that not only makes training tools, but also is committed to innovation in a way that leads climbers toward mastery over success. In this episode we discuss movement skills, some ways climbers are going wrong in their pursuit and how they can continue improving, and the tools that might get them there.
Check out Tension Climbing and use code STONE at checkout for 10% off of select training tools!
_________________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
If you’re a coach or a climber who wants to learn how to give better feedback, check out our Coaching for Mastery course, part of the Power Company Climbing Academy.
Go down the rabbit hole on our Movement Practice Resource Page.
Are Your Skills Current? Also available on Spotify or Apple
Grades Aren’t the Only Way to Measure Progress Also available on Spotify or Apple
More from Will and our friends at Tension:
Kerry Scott | Ambition, Confidence, and Climbing All the Things
Will Anglin and Rowland Chen | P.O.E.
Will Anglin and Rowland Chen | P.O.E. 2
Will Anglin and Michael Rosato | Boards vs. Spray Walls
Roy Quanstrom | Translating Movement
_________________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
_________________________
📚 CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro and Topic Description
(2:48) Climb All The Things
(6:23) Figuring Out How to Change Me
(8:06) Boards Make It Easier to Skip the Discomfort
(9:12) ANNOTATION: Constraints, Compensation, and Choices
(12:16) Climbing as Training
(13:16) Climb What?
(14:00) Not Stealing the Struggle
(15:45) Unlearning Skills
(16:50) ANNOTATION: Coach Over-Instruction and Skills Currency
(18:19) Improvement Is Hard to Measure
(22:50) Grades Only Say What We’ve Climbed, Not How Good We Are
(23:30) Will’s 3 Grade System
(24:05) ANNOTATION: Vegetable Climbs List and Diamond vs. Pyramid
(26:10) Skills Aren’t Separate from Strength and Power
(27:33) Skill Is the Intersection of What, How, and Doing
(28:11) How the Tension Board 1 Is a Movement and Strength Tool
(30:44) Just Climb, But With Intention
(31:33) ANNOTATION: Where Strength and Movement Overlap and the Ultimate Learning Tool
(34:31) Wrap Up
(35:35) Credits and Outro
Lauren Abernathy works hard to be a better climber. In fact, it’s part of her job as owner of Good Spray Climbing to help other people become better climbers, and she walks the walk. For several years she’s worked with our coach Blake Cash, and has recently been supplementing that with private movement sessions with Nate Drolet.
In this episode, we discuss why she chose to also do in-person sessions alongside her remote coaching with Blake, what’s going well, how she fits the training and sessions into her busy life, and how the movement skills are showing up in her climbing.
Find Lauren online at Good Spray Climbing and on Instagram
Check out her Fast Track climbing movement course
Listen to The Average Climber Podcast
Book a remote consultation with Nate Drolet.
Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.
_________________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching
EXPERT | Rob Gray | How We Learn to Move and Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)
Lauren Abernathy | From Weekend Warrior to Full-Time Coach
BOARD MEETINGS | Top Ways Climbers are Holding Themselves Back with The Average Climber Podcast
_________________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
_________________________
📚 CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro and BUILDER Description
(0:36) Guest Introduction and Details
(2:45) Why Lauren Added In-Person Sessions
(8:17) Was There a Specific Goal?
(9:39) An Example of What Nate Noticed In Lauren’s Movement
(18:43) Lauren Rants About Muggle Gyms
(25:58) Fitting Sessions and Training Into Work and Life
(33:09) Adjusting Skill Session Intensity to Fit Life Stressors
(38:34) Kris Explains His Own Recent Skill Wins
(41:39) How Lauren’s Skill Practice Is Showing Up In Her Climbing
(50:14) The Complexities of Tension
(1:00:19) Nate’s Monologues
(1:01:43) Wrap Up
(1:04:00) Theme
For most of us, climbing looks like this:
Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and try to understand why you fell. Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and come up with a new reason why you fell. Pull on again, try the move again, fall off. Again
You get it. You've been there. But there’s a better way.
In this episode, we’re going to talk about the obvious thing that most climbers are missing when it comes to difficult moves and learn several strategies that will help you do those harder moves, harder boulders, and harder routes faster.
Read the rest on the blog!
Watch the video on YouTube!
_________________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
_________________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Taylor Reed is a climber and coach who has worked with high-level athletes – both competitive and outdoor climbers – for many years. He’s the vice president of the International Rock Climbing Research Association and also runs The Beta Angel Project, which takes climbing-specific research and synthesizes it with ideas and experience in order to find evidence-informed methods that can help us all become better coaches and climbers.
In this episode, we discuss how Taylor assesses movement, how he teaches it, and what role research plays in his overall coaching.
Find Taylor online at:
International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA)
_________________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
Research mentioned in the episode:
Austrian Research Paper and Write Up
Co-Contraction Paper and Write Up
Multi-Edge Decision-Making / Behavioral Change Paper
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Why “Technique” May Not Be The Answer to Better Climbing
EXPERT | Rob Gray | The Gap Between Researchers and Coaches (Part 1)
EXPERT | Rob Gray | How We Learn to Move and Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)
BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing
BREAKING BETA | Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized?
BREAKING BETA | Better Call Paul | IRCRA Test Battery
Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel | The Coach/Climber Dynamic
_________________________
🔌SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
_________________________
📚CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:40) How Much Does Research Inform Taylor’s Coaching?
(3:48) ANNOTATION: Evidence-Based vs. Evidence-Informed
(10:15) What Aspects of Research Are Most Applicable?
(12:53) Looking Outside of Climbing Research
(13:50) ANNOTATION: Reinvestment Theory
(15:37) Speed Climbing
(19:53) Information Processing vs. Ecological Dynamics for Climbing
(30:32) Thematic Movement Learning
(47:40) Movement Assessment
(1:02:48) Teaching Movement
(1:05:22) ANNOTATION: Differential Learning
(1:08:19) ANNOTATION: Attractor Valleys
(1:16:03) How Much Does the Athlete Need to Know?
(1:20:58) ANNOTATION: Leading By Example
(1:22:48) Do Comp Style Climbs Translate to Outdoors?
(1:27:38) What Is Still Missing From the Research?
(1:32:55) Wrap Up
(1:35:06) Theme
A common refrain in climbing is that the more you climb, the better you get. But all of us know some old crusty who has been climbing for 45 years and is stuck at mid 5.10. And they have all of the excuses as to why. But they’re wrong.
In this episode, Kris and Nate explore why we believe we’ll just get better if we keep at it, as well as offer strategies to continue improving no matter how long (or short) you’ve been at it.
_________________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
Board Meetings | The Art of Learning Climbing
Board Meetings | Quality vs. Quantity
Board Meetings | Worst Advice We Got As Beginners
_________________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
_________________________
📚 CHAPTERS
(0:00) Theme
(0:37) Intro and Topic Description
(3:13) Examples of Experience that Doesn’t Guarantee Skill
(6:53) Why Most of Us Believe Experience Equals Skill
(10:55) What are the Pros Doing?
(16:20) It Isn’t All About Grades
(18:20) Undervaluing Other Styles and Angles
(19:43) We Don’t Want to Spend the Time
(21:20) We Go Into Autopilot
(23:23) How Can We Keep Improving Skills?
(24:17) Search for Novelty or Change Environments
(28:30) Approach Improvement from All Angles
(31:06) Recognize Discomfort and Lean In, Even Off the Wall
(35:08) The Zone (Not Grades) Where We Develop Skills
(37:16) Why We Suggest Drills
(38:15) Autopilot Mistakes
(42:40) How New Skills Open Opportunities on Hard Projects
(44:10) Examples of Pros Spending Time Below Their Limits
(49:20) Why Consistency Is NOT King
(53:28) Bringing Intention to Skill Drills
(55:47) Tried and True or Just Tradition?
(01:01:01) So Is Skill Guaranteed With Experience?
(01:03:45) How to Go Deeper Into Movement
Go ahead, grab that foothold. I mean, it’s only a foothold until someone uses it as a handhold. Then it’s just a hold. So use it.
And if you don’t want to because you’d rather challenge yourself to do it without using that really obvious hold right there, that’s fine, too. There’s no heroism in skipping an obvious hold. There’s no shame in using a hold other people aren’t. What’s possible, though, is that if you always choose one way or the other, then you’ve painted yourself into a corner. A corner that just doesn’t offer as many opportunities to learn.
So there’s a question that both of you should be asking yourselves. And that question is:
Can I do it both ways? Can I become more adaptable?That’s two questions, but you know what I mean...
_________________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
Our Movement Practice Resource Page
_________________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
_________________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Today we REWIND back to one of our favorite Board Meetings of all time. We chose this episode because we are spending the next couple months digging deep into movement and learning, and exploring if there might be a better way to consider movement than the technique-based way we’ve always done it. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss ideas presented by author Josh Waitzkin about our mental models for learning, specifically after hearing him as a guest on Tim Ferriss's podcast, and how we might apply these ideas to climbing.
This episode originally aired on April 5, 2020.
____________________
🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:
THE CURRENT | Rethinking Climbing Technique and Movement Skills
TAPED TIPS | Difficulties Should Be Desirable
TAPED TIPS | When Beta Isn’t Better
BOARD MEETINGS | Common Sense vs. Common Practice
The Art of Learning: An Inner Journey to Optimal Performance by Josh Waitzkin
____________________
🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
📚CHAPTERS
(0:00) Theme
(0:37) Intro
(2:29) Topic Description
(4:09) New Feedback Paradigms and Opportunities
(8:28) More Feedback isn’t Always Better
(12:00) Observation and Building Awareness
(17:07) How Routesetting Helps Understand Movement
(19:26) When the Poetic Perfection Has Been Marred
(24:03) Unexpected Learning From What You Deem Not Useful
(32:15) The Thematic Elements of Climbing Movement
(39:58) Self Expression via Movement
(43:29) Reps Hidden in Plain Sight
(51:22) The Ultimate Way to Get in High Quality Reps
(55:24) Hidden Reps We Often Miss
(01:02:14) The Gap in Our Confidence
(01:05:35) Comp Boulders and Discomfort
(01:08:10) How the Best Climbers React to Discomfort
(01:10:35) Setting Hard Things for Yourself
(01:22:41) Put the Wrench Away
(01:13:54) Outro
Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move.
____________________
EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:00) Guest Introduction
(2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories
(7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides
(9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods
(11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing
(18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards
(20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach
(23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching
(25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example
(28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing
(30:23) Perception and Action Coupling
(33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders
(35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit?
(37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill
(40:45) Wrap Up
Rob Gray is an associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s been studying movement and publishing research on it for 25 years. In this Part 1 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the limitations and challenges of using sports science research for coaches and practitioners, as well as some ways both coaches and researchers could do it better.
____________________
EXPLORE FURTHER
Our entire movement skills resource library
Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode
Follow Rob on Instagram
Check out The Perception & Action Podcast
Check out Rob's books:
How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills
Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(1:31) Guest Introduction
(3:20) Topic Explanation
(5:18) Accessibility
(6:13) Impenetrability
(7:33) Generalizability
(8:43) ANNOTATION: Don’t Discount Small Studies
(10:49) Researchers Asking the Wrong Questions
(11:49) How to Make it User Friendly
(19:34) The Value of Case Studies
(22:19) Studies Lack Real World Variables
(24:23) ANNOTATION: Functional Movement Variability
(26:44) What is it We Should be Looking For in Studies?
(30:49) Coaches and Researchers Meeting in the Middle
(33:48) Limitations of Using Studies From Other Sports
(37:24) ANNOTATION: Constraints and Self Organization
(40:54) ”Evidence-Based” Elitism
(43:27) Wrap Up
Introducing: Something new. Something different. Something FOCUSED.
Rather than doing what most podcasts do and jumping from subject to subject with each new episode, we’re going to be spending the next couple of months focused on discussing one topic. Through Board Meetings, Expert episodes, Taped Tips, and our new Builder series that you’ll hear more about later, as well as on Youtube, Instagram, the blog, and the newsletter, for the next 10 or so episodes we’re going to be digging deep into movement and skill acquisition: the research, the theories, anecdotes and experiences, and of course, practical application. And Patrons will be getting bonus episodes on the same topic. At the end of the two or so months, we’ll wrap it all up with a podcast episode and a newsletter.
We’re aiming for 3 or 4 of these FOCUS periods this year; we hope you’ll tune in to see how it goes.
____________________
EXPLORE FURTHER
Mentioned in this episode:
Board Meetings | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos
You might also enjoy these related episodes:
Board Meetings | The Art of Learning Climbing
P.O.E. with Will Anglin & Rowland Chen
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Indoor and outdoor climbing have different constraints, and as such, lead you into different solutions for how to interact with that environment. But there are lessons from the climbing gyms that should absolutely be applied to outdoors in order to get the most out of it and become a better climber faster.
In this bonus episode from our Patron feed, Kris and Nate discuss 3 of their Top 6 Indoor Lessons. To hear their 3 favorites as well, you can get those bonus episodes on Patreon or in your Apple Podcast Feed or on Spotify by subscribing to the We Scream Like Eagles Podcast.
____________________
EXPLORE FURTHER
You might also enjoy this related episode:
BOARD MEETINGS | Top 4 Ways to Transition to Outdoor Climbing
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(00:00:00) Introduction
(00:01:24) Topic Explanation
(00:07:13) Be Picky About Projects
(00:15:11) Below Project Level, Climb Everything
(00:27:51) Climbing With and Around Crowds
(00:35:30) Become a Patron to Get the Top 3. Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Many people view indoor climbing as less serious than climbing outside, but if we're looking to improve, that may be a mistake. There are aspects of climbing outside that lead us into learning specific things that we don't necessarily find as easily indoors.
In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss their top 5 lessons from climbing outside that, when taken indoors, can help us become better climbers faster.
____________________
EXPLORE FURTHER
Check out our Proven Plans to jumpstart your intention indoors.
Check out the Comment Card blog post mentioned in this episode.
You might also enjoy these related episodes:
BOARD MEETINGS: Top 4 Ways to Transition to Outdoor Climbing with Taylor Fragomeni
BOARD MEETINGS: How to Make the Most of a Board Session
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(00:00:00) Introduction and Topic Explanation
(00:05:55) Using and Practicing Better Tactics
(00:14:32) Bring Mid-Session Snacks or Food
(00:25:44) Go In With a Plan
(00:28:38) Power Company Proven Plans
(00:29:18) Set Goals
(00:35:47) Not Complaining About the Setting
(00:48:57) Outro
With more and more information out there, it would seem that we can learn faster and better. But that isn't always the case.
In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss why learning is more challenging in our current environment, ways we can better structure our time, tools we can use for learning, and the changes we are making to this podcast and our website in order to make them more valuable learning tools.
____________________
EXPLORE FURTHER
You might enjoy these related episodes:
BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing
Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset
____________________
SUPPORT + CONNECT
Help us keep the show sponsor free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.
Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.
Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.
Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.
____________________
The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
____________________
CHAPTERS
(0:00) Intro
(2:22) Topic Explanation
(4:27) MicroLearning
(5:39) More Content Isn't Better
(9:30) Actively Participating
(14:32) The Problem with Social Media Discourse
(18:54) What to Prioritize
(23:18) Entertainment vs. Education
(25:21) Find the Voices that Resonate
(32:43) Recognize the Biases
(39:56) Follow the Topic
(43:25) Just in Case vs. Just in Time
(50:03) Learning from Video
(58:23) Shape the Algorithm
(1:04:04) Create Playlists and Saved Folders
(1:06:01) Taking Notes and Making it Stick
(1:10:00) Don't Forget the Past Information
(1:12:00) Writing About What You've Learned
(1:17:35) The Things We Are Changing
(1:35:38) Outro
Two of the legendary routes from the 90s are now at odds with each other (sort of). One of them was likely the first 9a in the world, but which was it? Hubble or Action Directe?
In this bonus episode from Written In Stone, we examine the circumstances, discuss where the debate began, and hear from the only two people in the world who have climbed both routes – Alex Megos and Buster Martin – to try and decide once and for all...
...which route was really the world’s first 9a?
Cameos by Adam Ondra, Steve McClure, Ben Cossey, and Ben Moon himself.
This is an episode of Written In Stone: Climbing's Most Important Ascents, the latest podcast from Power Company Climbing & Plug Tone Audio.
Find more episodes everywhere you get pods or learn more at: www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Four years ago this month in 2019, Yosemite’s Magic Line, a 5.14 crack originally put up by Ron Kauk and not repeated until more than 20 years later by his son, Lonnie, saw its third ascent. Pushing her limits both physically and mentally, the formidable Hazel Findlay solidified her status as one of the strongest trad climbers in the world with the send. She reflected on her experience working the line at her blog, which is a must-read. Today, we rewind to an episode with Hazel in which she shares strategies for getting into the right mindset to send, strategies she no doubt called on to take down Magic Line. She talks breathing techniques, pre-climbing rituals, flow state, and more.
When this episode was recorded, Hazel was just beginning her journey into being a professional coach, and she has since continued along that path, founding Strong Mind, which specializes in mental training for climbers, and also the Strong Mind Podcast, which she hosts. If you’re interested in learning more about Hazel and Strong Mind’s offerings, check out Hazel’s Performance Hacks course!
Read Hazel's blog about her Magic Line experience.
Check out Hazel's Performance Hacks course.
Check out Strong Mind online.
Follow Hazel on Instagram.
This episode originally aired on September 3, 2017.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
The Red River Gorge Climber’s Coalition was one oof the first climber owned organizations to OWN their local climbing. Now they have the opportunity to purchase a huge tract of land with miles and miles of cliffline. Some existing climbing, and a lot of potential climbing of nearly all grades.
But they need our help to make it happen.
This might include big donors, partners, or creative development solutions. They are open to all ideas.
You can find them online at RRGCC.org or email them directly at access@rrgcc.org
Kris and Jereme discuss:
- The history of the RRGCC.
- What the RRGCC does and what their mission is.
- The new opportunity to bid on a huge property with miles of cliff line.
- What this might entail and why they need partners.
- The reasons more climbing can be valuable.
- How we can help - both now and in general.
- What’s on this property?
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
You nailed the training and showed up stronger. Still, things went wrong.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
The year is 1991. No woman has ever climbed 5.14. One French superstar says that no woman ever will.
But Lynn Hill didn’t listen... And years later, Katie Brown wouldn't either.
This is a sample of Episode 1 of Written In Stone: Climbing's Most Important Ascents, the latest podcast from Power Company Climbing & Plug Tone Audio.
To hear the rest of the episode and learn more, head over to: www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Training principles are important, but when they creep into performance, your climbing will suffer. Nearly every time.
Taped Tips is presented by Power Company Climbing and Plug Tone Audio.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound-designed stories about what led to new levels in climbing, alternated with conversations with today’s top climbers about what inspired them about what went down way back then. Season One is focused on the 1990’s, and will tell the stories of how sport climbing came to dominate, how women climbers made their mark, and explore the characters who made it all happen. Moon, Skinner, Güllich, Hill, Nicole and more! Like Todd Skinner always said, ”Never let the truth get in the way of a good story.”
Learn more at www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
If you’re a climber and you haven’t been to Miguel’s Pizza, you probably want to go, or you’ve at least seen a dozen people wearing their t-shirts. Forty years ago, Miguel Ventura moved from Connecticut to Slade, Kentucky and started what was then known as The Rainbow Door, a pizza and ice cream shop that has since become an icon to climbers all over the world. REWIND with us to this classic episode with the man himself, Miguel Ventura, and a special appearance by his son Dario, about art, pizza, climbing, and community.
And to everyone over there off Exit 33, congrats on 40 years!
Check out Miguel's Pizza online.
Follow Miguel's on Instagram.
This episode originally aired on December 24, 2016.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Looking to climb on gorgeous streaky sandstone cliffs full of high-angled crimps? Look no further than the Blue Mountains, sport climbing mecca of the land down under, boasting thousands of routes.
Legendary Australian climber Lee Cujes spent more than 20 years taking trips to the Blue Mountains before eventually moving there, and now it’s been his local crag for nearly a decade.
Head over to this episode's blog post to see Lee's picks for Must-Do Routes, Best Crags for a group, guidebook recommendations, and more.
Follow Lee on Instagram.
Check out Lee's Moonboard Benchmark Buster Training Programs.
Support rebolting efforts and trail maintenance in the Blue Mountains.
Support the Australian Climbing Association (NSW)
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
You know what highpointing is, and definitely redpointing, but what about lowpointing? And for those of you who know what we’re talking about, do you actually do it? Chances are, you’re not using this tactic to its full potential, which means you’re not using it to your full advantage.
In this Board Meeting, Kris and Nate discuss the tactic of lowpointing, when and why you should use it, and some of the reasons why it remains one of the most overlooked climbing tactics, despite the fact that it could speed up the sending process for many folks.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Five years ago this week, Ravioli Biceps walked into the gym, did his usual detailed warmup, and then set his camera up pointed at the Moonboard. It had only been a year since he'd started climbing on it, and he'd obsessively worked his way through the benchmarks. And on this day, he pulled on and finished the final benchmark of the 2016 set, becoming the first person to do so.
This kind of dedication is rare, and deserves to be recognized. So now, five years since becoming the undisputed king of the Moonboard, we REWIND to this conversation about process, identity, and using a tool to its absolute fullest with Ravioli Biceps.
Check out Ravioli Biceps on YouTube.
Follow Ravioli Biceps on Instagram (includes the 2016 set).
Follow the 2019 set on Instagram.
Snag some Ravioli Biceps merch.
Snag some Mooncollective merch.
This episode originally aired on September 9, 2019.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
There’s more information out there than ever. When I first started Power Company Climbing, there were very few training blogs, no training podcasts for climbers, maybe one other remote climbing coach, and honestly, very few reputable sources for information on how to improve.
That lack of information, or of people willing to offer advice, is certainly no longer the case. It’s quite the opposite now. There’s SO MUCH out there to wade through, never mind spending time to parse it out, verify the claims made, and think critically about the applicability of it. There are hundreds, maybe thousands of internet coaches, dozens of podcasts all doing the same interviews about the same topics, and millions of posts and videos telling you exactly how to train.
That’s the root of our problem. But the problem itself? That’s us – and how we collect these things.
We have become collectors – rather than connectors – of dots.
Watch this episode on YouTube.
Taped Tips is presented by Power Company Climbing and Plug Tone Audio.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Does kneebarring hard boulders make you stronger? What if it IS a kneebar boulder? Is it good for training? We're conflicted. And how does Chris Sharma feel about it?
This is a bonus Board Meeting episode from our new series, CONFLICTED. If you want to hear more episodes like this one, become a Patron or Apple subscriber today!
Head over to www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast or subscribe to Power Company + in your Apple Podcasts app!
Training is training is training. You’ve done your homework, you know how to periodize a training plan, you understand set and rep schemes and RPE and autoregulation, you’ve got all the latest tech and warmup tools, and you’ve somehow figured out how to fit all 482 things into a week, including recovery time and self-care mental health days. You’ve optimized.
Congrats.
But now you have a climbing trip coming up. The rock is different. The style is different. Your pre-trip time is short and the number of days you’ll be climbing even shorter. What’s more, if you do your normal training block for this upcoming trip, it’ll overlap with the good days in your climbing season and you want to optimize for BOTH.
Well, realistically, you probably can’t. What you can do is learn the best way to train for a climbing trip, which is different from training for your normal climbing season. And you’re going to do just that, because we’ve got you covered with some useful tips.
(00:00:00) Intro and Topic Explanation
(00:02:00) Train Specifically for the Demands of the Area
(00:04:32) Hit the Ground Running
(00:07:02) Introduce Pressure in the Preparation
(00:09:51) Resources and Outro
Check out our What When How to Train series.
Check out our Trip Prep Plans.
Learn the Art of the Second Try Send.
Watch Nate break down the Ten Minute Takedown.
Watch this episode on YouTube.
Taped Tips is presented by Power Company Climbing and Plug Tone Audio.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
For most climbers, a 100-foot ground fall would be the end of their lives, or at the very least, the end of their climbing careers. Not so for Craig DeMartino.
21 years ago this week, while climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park, a moment of miscommunication nearly cost him everything, and did lead to the eventual amputation of his right leg. But instead of letting the resulting limitations do just that – limit him – Craig changed his perspective and kept on climbing, ultimately becoming one of the most accomplished paraclimbers in the world. Today, we REWIND to this conversation with Craig about motivations, limitations, perception, and moving forward.
Learn more about Craig at his website.
Follow Craig on Instagram.
Check out Craig's book: After the Fall.
Hear Craig's story on "The Enormocast".
Watch Craig on "The Season".
This episode originally aired on January 3, 2017.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode, which comes to us from The Struggle Climbing Show podcast, Kris sat down with host Ryan Devlin to talk tactics. Kris took a look at episodes from the show’s second season – which included interviews with some of today’s biggest names in climbing, like Jonathan Siegrist, Tommy Caldwell, Melina Costanza, Matt Fultz, Alison Vest, and more – and breaks down the biggest tactical takeaways for us.
Check out more episodes of The Struggle Climbing Show.
Follow The Struggle Climbing Show on Instagram.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
As climbers, we fail a lot. And yet, we don’t even like to hear the word. Our ability to return to unsent projects time after time, season after season, along with the deeply ingrained idea that every failure ought to be reframed as a successful learning experience means we rarely – if ever – actually confront the concept in our sport.
But maybe we should.
In this REMIX episode, we'll hear from climbers Nina Caprez and Erica Lineberry, mindset coach Josie McKee, movement coach Jeremy Fein, and cognitive psychologist turned professional poker player turned decision strategist, Annie Duke, about how we can accept, embrace, and maybe even practice failure to become better athletes.
Find videos, links, a full transcript, and more for this episode HERE.
Music for this episode comes from Blue Dot Sessions.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Today we REWIND to this classic episode with living-legend and climbing pioneer Paul Piana himself, 35 years after he and Todd Skinner completed their historic first free ascent of El Cap’s Salathé Wall on June 15, 1988, helping to shape the dreams of many generations of climbers to come. Lynn Hill doing the Nose a few years later, Tommy Caldwell on the Dawn Wall, and the new generation of climbers like Connor Herson, Jordan Cannon, Brittany Goris and Amity Warme.
And most important, what this latest generation has pulled from Paul and his contemporaries, is that it’s important to do it all – bouldering, sport, big walls, both adventure and difficulty, and a reverence for history without letting the mythology hold you back.
We’ve still got a handful of signed copies of Paul’s 1997 book Big Walls: Breakthroughs on the Free-Climbing Frontier available HERE. With every purchase, you’re donating to The Todd Skinner Legacy Fund, which aims to support the continuing mission of the late Todd Skinner by funding endeavors and programs in his spirit.
Click HERE to hear Kris’s poem The Cowboy King, mentioned in the episode, which features over 100 classic route names from the Lander area.
This episode originally aired on October 7, 2020.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Whether you are a pro climber, small business owner, coach, writer, filmmaker or any other entrepreneur in the climbing industry, Taylor Swift has something to teach you.
In this Board Meeting, Kris and Nate draw what might seem an odd comparison: pro climbers and Miss Americana herself, Taylor Swift. With some of the recent industry drama surrounding the Eddie Bauer athlete team firing and the shuttering of the big print mags, the topic of what it means to be a paid pro climber, writer, or creative these days is up for debate. Kris compares the outdoor industry to today’s music industry, where – thanks to streaming services like the one you’re probably using to listen to this episode right now – artists are no longer making money from their music but rather ticket sales, brand collaborations, and other outlets. An artist or athlete’s accomplishments alone, be they a #1 hit song or a groundbreaking FA, are no longer enough. Taylor Swift seems to have figured it out, so maybe the pros should be taking notes.
Special thanks to Lauren Abernathy and her crew of Swifties for pointing me to good lyrics to pull for this episode.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Looking to spend your summer sport climbing on gently overhanging crimps on beautiful limestone cliffs? Look no further than Ten Sleep, a picturesque canyon nestled high in the Bighorns of Wyoming offering tons of generously bolted lines up to grades of 14+.
Our very own coach Taylor Fragomeni started climbing in Ten Sleep more than a decade ago and it’s where she experienced many of her “climbing firsts”. She’s seen it grow from a once quieter spot for weekend warriors of the west into one of the busier destinations for climbers from all over to spend summer months.
Head over to this episode's blog post to see Taylor's picks for Must-Do Routes, Overlooked Classics, guidebook recommendations, and more.
Also be sure to check out our new Trip Prep Plans for Ten Sleep!
Support the Big Horn Climbers' Coalition
Follow Taylor on Instagram.
Want to train with Taylor?
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
We begin this REWIND episode a little differently, with a call to Jonathan Siegrist while he was recently in Catalunya, Spain, to find out if he knew why we're releasing this on May 18th. It's an interesting fact about his own climbing that he wasn't aware of. Until now.
Since this episode first aired, Jonathan has climbed 5 routes at 5.15b (9b), with his most recent send of “Stoking the Fire” being the first to break his unintentional May hotstreak.
So now, almost 5 years exactly after he ticked his first of that grade, we REWIND to this classic conversation with Jonathan about when and why to change things up in your training, and one thing that training should definitely include a whole lot of: climbing.
Follow Jonathan on Instagram.
This episode originally aired on March 2, 2017.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
When it comes to skincare in the climbing world, Rhino Skin Solutions is the one name you need to know. They’ve got a complete line of products to help you address whatever skin woes you may be having, whether your tips are too wet, too dry, or just totally torn up. Rhino’s founder and CEO Justin Brown joined Kris to explain the different products they offer and how best to use them. And then they chat about some of the best tips and tricks they’ve learned over the years, and also debunk some common myths that seem to pervade the climbing community on the subject of skincare.
Learn more about Rhino's products at Rhino Skin Solutions.
Follow Rhino Skin on Instagram.
Check out the Breaking Beta episode about chalking up that Kris and Justin talk about in today's episode!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In an ideal world, grades would be objective and we’d have some universal formula for how they’re decided. But we don't live in an ideal world.
In this bonus Board Meeting episode, Part 1 of 2 on grades and what affects them, Kris and Nate talk about some things that should be considered when deciding on a grade, but rarely are. They break down these things into two main headings: physical factors (external, environmental, etc.) and user factors (internal, how we as climbers engage with grades) and consider why we seem to ignore some of these factors when determining grades.
This is a bonus episode, so if you want to hear Part 2: Things That Shouldn't Affect Grades But Do, and more episodes like this one, become a Patron or Apple subscriber today!
Head over to www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast or subscribe to Power Company + in your Apple Podcasts app!In this, the second of two episodes with seasoned big wall climber Josie McKee, she and Kris sit down to discuss how her recent trip to Yosemite turned out – what went well, what didn’t, what she might do differently to prepare for future trips, and so forth. But the conversation goes far beyond training and tick lists as they consider some hurdles every climber faces at one point or another, hurdles that can hold us back from a fulfilling and sustainable relationship with climbing.
If you haven’t listened to the first episode with Josie yet, do so HERE! Also be sure to check out Josie’s recent blog post HERE!
Learn more about Josie's mindset coaching at Mind Athlete.
Follow Josie on Instagram.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Josie McKee has been climbing for more than 20 years, racking up speed records, FA’s, and a huge wealth of experience and knowledge in that time. She’s been up El Cap more than 20 times, even working on the YOSAR team for 3 years. Now based in Lander, she found herself with limestone sport climbing as her primary means to train for a recent Yosemite trip. This is the first of 2 episodes where Kris and Josie discuss how this trip and prepping for it forced Josie to really consider her relationship with climbing – especially in Yosemite – and her identity as a climber.
Learn more about Josie's mindset coaching at Mind Athlete.
Follow Josie on Instagram.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
13 years ago this month, British climbing legend Stevie Haston climbed 14d, for the second time that year, at the youthful age of 52. Even more impressive is the fact that Haston did this after recovering from a snowboarding accident in his 40’s that left him questioning if he'd ever climb hard again. So what are the complex intricacies of his training that led to such success? Plain and simple common sense.
This episode originally aired on December 6, 2016.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
It's all the rage. Watching Will Bosi and Aiden Roberts work on the Burden of Dreams replica is fun, but is it valuable for the rest of us?
This episode is the first half of the full episode our Patrons and Subscribers get today. To get bonus conversations like this every month (over 100 in the archive currently!) you can become a Patron or you can subscribe to Power Company + in the Apple Podcast App by clicking on the full version of this episode.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Most of us have never given 100% to an attempt on a rock climb. Most of us just don’t know how. It’s one of the hardest to cultivate components of high performance: effort. So, the big question:
How can we all learn to give more effort?
In this REMIX episode, we'll hear from climbers Bill Ramsey, Jonathan Siegrist, Jason Kehl, Hazel Findlay, Troy Fauteux, and more, as well as author Alex Hutchinson and Hall of Fame linebacker Ray Lewis about how we – the average athlete – can refocus our effort.
Find videos, citations, a full transcript, and more at the blog post for this episode.
REVISIT THE ORIGINAL EPISODES FEATURED IN THIS REMIX:
A Philosophy of Sending with Bill Ramsey
If It Ain't Broke, Fix It Anyway with Jonathan Siegrist
Aggressive Creativity with Jason Kehl
Flow and Mental Mastery with Hazel Findlay
Music for this episode comes from Blue Dot Sessions.
Audio clips of Alex Hutchinson come from Press 1 for Nick and Modern Wisdom.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
McKenzie Long started climbing like many of us did, indoors, in a midwestern climbing gym, far from the vast landscapes and towering rock formations of the American West. But her love of climbing – and dream of becoming a writer – led her to those places soon enough, and also led her to consider our relationships with those places. Her book, This Contested Land: The Storied Past and Uncertain Future of America’s National Monuments, explores those relationships and their impact.
Check out this Q&A with McKenzie about her book.
Follow McKenzie on Instagram.
Hear McKenzie talk more about her book and read selected passages over on the Plug Tone Outdoors channel.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
With the seemingly endless amount of information available online these days, and the newest training trends popping up in reel after reel on our feeds, it can be pretty tough to know what to keep and what to toss when it comes to our own training, and really tempting to overcomplicate things. In this Board Meeting, Kris chats with our very own coach Nadya Suntay to remind us why it’s better to keep it simple.
Interested in working with Nadya? She's always available to coach you through one of our Proven Plans! Or check out her Custom Training availability!
Follow Nadya on Instagram!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Looking for a sport climbing destination where you can climb comfortably from mid-Spring through mid-Fall? Look no further than Wild Iris, with its high elevation, low humidity, and perfectly-pocketed limestone walls.
Wyoming local Leif Gasch has been climbing at Wild Iris for more than 25 years. While his life and travels have taken him all over, he and his wife Lindsay are happy to once again call Lander home.
Head over to this episode's blog post to see Kris and Leif's picks for Must-Do Routes, Overlooked Classics, guidebook recommendations, and more.
Also be sure to check out our Trip Prep Plans for Wild Iris!
Support WyoClimbers – Central Wyoming Climbers Alliance.
Find Leif and Substr8 Climbing Performance online and on Instagram.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Nearly 15 years ago, with the FA of her route Meltdown, Beth Rodden gave us one of the hardest crack lines in Yosemite – if not the world – helping to solidify the role women have played in the development of hard rock climbing. Since then, she’s also solidified herself as one of the leading voices in support of body positivity and healthier ideas surrounding body image in climbing. Today we REWIND to this conversation about parenting, identity, and climbing with the great Beth Rodden.
Watch “Above the Fray” – a short film about Beth.
Follow Beth on Instagram.
Articles:
Beth Rodden's Thoughts On Mentorship And Vulnerability In Today's Climbing World
Climbing's Send-At-All-Costs Culture Almost Ruined Me
Climbing, Motherhood, and Body Image
This episode originally aired on February 17, 2018.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
If you already spend 4 or 5 days a week climbing for your job as a setter, is it a good idea – or even just a feasible one – to take on a training program? How do you find the additional time, energy, and motivation? Plus, aren’t you just asking for an injury? In today’s Board Meeting episode, our very own coach Jess West answers these questions and more, providing valuable insight as to how setters can smartly and safely train for their goals.
Interested in working with Jess? Check her availability HERE.
Follow Jess on Instagram.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Don’t be fooled by Patty Law’s small frame and soft-spoken demeanor – she’s a fierce climber, mother, entrepreneur, and community cultivator. She’s been welcoming climbers through the doors of her gyms and into a thriving Cincinnati climbing community for more than 20 years now. Kris sits down with his long-time friend to talk about about her journey from a climbing-obsessed college student to a successful businesswoman and community leader.
Find Climb Time Blue Ash online and on Instagram!
Find Climb Time Oakley online and on Instagram!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In January 2015, 7 years ago this week, I, along with countless others including many non-climbers, was glued to a saga happening on the side of El Cap. Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson were battling it out on what would become the world's hardest big wall free route, the Dawn Wall, and it was being streamed live. We watched as they topped out on January 14th after a tension-filled week in which Tommy had showed the world, in real-time, one of the most important things about climbing: partnership.
So now, 7 years later almost to the day, that Tommy and Kevin topped out the Dawn Wall together, we are going to REWIND to this conversation about belief and partnership with one of the best all-around climbers on the planet, Tommy Caldwell.
This episode originally aired on October 26, 2017.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
“It's all about the process.”
Sure, the journey is important, but so is the destination. It's not all about the journey. It’s about mapping out the journey that gets you to the intended destination. So is there a way to care about the outcome without making it the focus?
In this REMIX episode, we'll hear from athletes Sam Elias and Alex Megos, learning expert Trevor Regan, and mental training coach Arno Ilgner about how we can care about the outcome, but stay focused on the process.
REVISIT THE ORIGINAL EPISODES FEATURED IN THIS REMIX:
Process vs. Goal Based Motivation with Arno Ilgner
Fixed vs. Growth Mindset with Trevor Ragan
Thoughtful Process with Sam Elias
Alex Megos and Ken Etzel | Rotpunkt
Music in this episode comes from Blue Dot Sessions.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Nominate the most inspiring ascents of 2022 at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/ascent
Support the podcast and get bonus episodes at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
Kris and Nate sit down to discuss some of the perks and pitfalls of climbing in today’s modern mega gyms, and give some tips on how to deal with them. They’ll talk about how to handle things when the new sets are crowded, the gym is overrun with team kids, the bouldering wall is full of “weird” comp style setting, and you’re afraid attempting a boulder’s top out might cost you an ankle.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Today we're listening to the first episode of Built Outdoors, a new show Kris is hosting, with Amy Skinner and Joan Chase from the iconic gear shop, Wild Iris Mountain Sports. They talk history of the store and how it's inextricably linked to the rise of climbing in Lander, community, and business in a small mountain town.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Certified Nutrition Specialist and co-host of The Average Climber Podcast, Caitlin Holmes, sits down with Kris to discuss body composition, which is often conflated with weight loss and can thus be a very polarizing topic.
Learn more about Caitlin and how you can work with her.
Follow Caitlin on Instagram.
CHECK OUT CAITLIN’S NEW COURSE: BODY COMP PRO
Body Comp Pro is a 4-week self-guided course for active individuals who want to learn how to change their body composition.
This course will help you master your understanding of what really impacts body composition and the what, the why, and the how when it comes to body composition changes. By investing in this course, here's what you'll receive:
-
An understanding of the diet and lifestyle factors you should consider when seeking body composition changes.
-
The tools you need to estimate your energy and macronutrient intake.
-
Knowledge of when to prioritize changes to body composition including weight loss and muscle gain.
-
How to pursue safe and effective changes to your body composition.
Save $50 by enrolling before December 16th and receive immediate access to the Body Comp Pro Masterclass. No coupon needed - discount already applied! Full course becomes available January 9th, 2023.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Back in September, at the 8th annual Joe’s Valley Festival, Kris sat down to talk to local legend and longtime crusher Steven Jeffery, about how climbing has evolved since he first came onto the scene. They reflect on how today’s online resources like digital guidebooks and social media have impacted climbing.
Check out Steven's new guidebook on KAYA Pro! Use code JV2WEEKS to get 2 weeks FREE!
Join the Joe's Valley Coalition!
Watch Reel Rock's United States of Joe's!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Kris and fellow Power Company coach, Taylor Fragomeni, sit down and discuss how you can make the transition from indoor to outdoor climbing easier on yourself.
They’ll dive into the specifics with ways to:
-
warm up well outdoors, even when a crag’s “warmups” aren’t great.
-
prepare yourself for using “bad” feet outdoors.
-
practice pacing yourself appropriately for changing difficulty throughout routes outdoors.
-
making difficult clips outdoors.
Find Taylor at Tangent Climbing.
Follow Taylor on Instagram.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In today’s episode, Kris sits down with shaper and setter Roy Quanstrom, of Tension Climbing. They talk about Roy’s newest holds from Trango, the Khans and the Fuegos, and the climbing experiences that inspired their design.
Check out the Khans and the Fuegos, from Trango Holds.
Find Roy at Tension Climbing.
Follow Roy on Instagram.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In today’s episode, Kris sits down to catch up with fellow climbing coach, Eric Hörst. They chat about how some big life shifts – Eric’s retirement, the success of his nutrition brand, PhysiVantage, and becoming an empty nester – have impacted his climbing and training.
Learn more with training resources from Eric.
Learn more about PhysiVantage Nutrition.
Follow Eric on Instagram.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode, from our other podcast, Breaking Beta, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that investigates how different energy systems contribute to climbing performance:
Climbing-Specific Exercise Tests: Energy System Contributions and Relationships With Sport PerformanceAuthored by Marcin Maciejczyk, Michail Lubomirov Michailov, Magdalena Więcek, Jadwiga Szymura, Robert Rokowski, Zbigniew Szygula, and Ralph Beneke; published in Frontiers in Physiology in January, 2022.
They’ll explain the different energy systems and how they were measured in the study using three finger flexor muscle tests. They’ll consider how well these measurements can act as reliable performance indicators for climbing.
Special thanks to AJ Sobrilsky at Excel Physical Therapy in Bozeman and also the Climb Strong team for suggesting this paper!
New episodes of Breaking Beta drop on Wednesdays. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share!
And please, tell all of your friends who have their energy system training totally dialed in but say “Take!” as soon as they are getting pumped, that you have the perfect podcast for them.
Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.
Season 2 of Breaking Beta is proudly supported by Gnarly Sports Nutrition. For a limited time, Breaking Beta listeners can take 15% off their purchase using the code BETA15 at checkout! Or simply click the link above to shop and have the discount automatically applied.
Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram
Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram
Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.
I’m actually not a big fan of the term “drills”, but I don’t have a better word for it. I don’t like it for several reasons:
One, because we aren’t “drilling” anything in. Despite the popular belief, that’s not actually how learning works. Performance, maybe, but not learning. And in my book, these “drills” are for learning.
Two, there are just too many coaches who assume that harder equals better. They just keep stacking difficulties onto their drills as if those difficulties are all going to make you better at climbing. Now we see climbers bouncing one-legged on a Bosu Ball balanced on a slackline while blindfolded and miming rose moves because…
WHY?
Yeah, I don’t know either. And today, we’re going to talk about why that might not be the best solution.
In our Coaching for Mastery course, we go DEEP into how coaches and climbers can create an effective practice. That’s literally what the entire course is about. The research, the theories, my experience, and how you can practically apply it.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode, Kris and Nate are joined by coach Lauren Abernathy and nutritionist Caitlin Holmes of The Average Climber Podcast. The four discuss some of the biggest ways they see climbers getting in their own way.
They chat about the impact that shifting your perspective can have, how easy it can be to get caught up in comparing yourself to others, and why reading all the Mountain Project comments on that route you’re psyched to check out might not be the best idea.
Plus, they’ll answer a question that’s been plaguing climbers for ages: what’s the best brand of gummy bears?
Find Lauren online at Good Spray Climbing.
Find Caitlin online at Dirt Bag Nutrition.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
You’re a coach, or a climbing partner, or simply a concerned friend. You’re watching your client, student, partner, or bestie struggle. And you want to help.
But how?
That’s actually a great question. Because the answer is situational. It entirely depends on the goal.
Today, we’re going to learn why.
In our Coaching for Mastery course, we go DEEP into how coaches and climbers can create an effective practice. That’s literally what the entire course is about. The research, the theories, my experience, and how you can practically apply it.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
You’ve heard of the SAID principle, right? S-A-I-D: Specific Adaptations to Imposed Demands. You’ve heard of it. And you thought that it meant simply that to get better at climbing, you have to climb on boulders that look just like the climbs you do outside, right?
If that was you, you were in the majority. But you were wrong.
Is climbing pulling straight down on edges? Not always. Is it compressing on slopers? Not always. Is it jumping from grip to grip? Sometimes. Is it moving slow and precise. Pretty often, actually. Is it full-crimping? Half-crimping? Open hand? 3 Finger Drag? Middle 2? Back 3? Mono? Crosley? Pinch? Back-stepping, drop-kneeing, twisted, square, toe-hooking, heel-hooking, edging, smearing, blah blah blah…
Well, It’s all of these things. And thousands more things. It’s too much. So today, we’re going to learn a little more about what specificity actually means.
In our Coaching for Mastery course, we go DEEP into how coaches and climbers can create an effective practice. That’s literally what the entire course is about. The research, the theories, my experience, and how you can practically apply it.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Climbers are really good at creating a performance environment. Really, really good. No, I’m not saying that you’re good at performing – some of you suck at it and could use a lot of help –but you’re always TRYING to perform.
But if you want to get better, that might be a big mistake.
Today, we’re going to find out why.
In our Coaching for Mastery course, we go DEEP into how coaches and climbers can create an effective practice. That’s literally what the entire course is about. The research, the theories, my experience, and how you can practically apply it.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
We are happy to announce that due to the generous donations from two anonymous donors, we are able to offer two scholarships for our 10 Week Coaching for Mastery Mentorship Group, as well as three spots for the course itself.
Having worked with a lot of climbing coaches over the past decade, it’s been exciting to see the industry becoming more diverse. We want to do what we can to help that trend.
Applications are open to everyone, with priority given to those who otherwise may not have the resources to participate. Applications will close on Monday, October 17th and winners will be notified later that week.
Please share this post or link with your network, and particularly with the folks you know who deserve the opportunity - or you can pop into the applications and nominate someone yourself!
Thanks.
How to use data and measurements to inform training decisions had been a topic of debate amongst Kris and the other Power Company coaches for years. That is until today’s guest, Data Analyst, Dale Wilson, stepped in to settle the score once and for all.
Dale and Kris chat about how and why Power Company Climbing collects certain measurements from their clients. They discuss the usefulness of these measurements in predicting climbing performance and how this data can be helpful to coaches when designing programming. They also talk about how important it is not to get too wrapped up in the numbers, and how easily many climbers fall into the trap of training to improve numbers rather than to reach their goals.
DISCUSSED IN THIS EPISODE:-
How Power Company Climbing uses data and measurements in their program design.
-
How Kris and Dale personally use data in their own climbing and training.
-
Which measurements seem to “matter” - and which don’t.
-
The downside of putting too much stock in numbers.
Learn more about Metrics for Climbers from Dale.
See the charts and tables we've compiled based on our ever-growing data set.
Let Dale crunch the numbers for you with our Mini-Assessment + Analysis.
Check out the newest course from the Power Company Climbing Academy, Coaching for Mastery, available now!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Do you have a default climbing mode? If so, do you value the other side?
In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss the two approaches to sending - tactics vs. going to battle - and how we can better learn both sides.
Check out the Coaching for Mastery course!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode, Kris and Nate sit down to talk about the ways the gym doesn’t prepare you for climbing outside, and provide some tips on how you can address this gap.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Looking for a winter bouldering destination with seemingly endless amounts of rock, hosting classic problems of every grade, all within driving distance of one of the coolest cities in the Southeast? Look no further than Chattanooga.
Juliet Hammer first climbed in the Chattanooga area as a college student at the University of Virginia and has recently returned to the area after living in Colorado for a number of years. She’s since then racked up an impressive tick-list of southeastern sends, and even walked away with the win at last year’s Triple Crown Bouldering Series. Now she’s helping climbers reach their goals as a coach. Hear more from her in this previous episode.
Head over to this episode's blog post to see Kris and Juliet's picks for Must-Do Boulders, Overlooked Classics, guidebook recommendations, and more.
Support the Southeastern Climbers Coalition!
Find Juliet on Instagram and at her website!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
As wildfires become more common and powerful, the Giant Sequoias of the American West are burning at alarming rates. These enormous beings stand at a few hundred feet in height and a hundred feet in diameter.
Due to climate change and 100 years of human mismanagement, the forests where these Sequoias live are being lost to wildfire.
In this episode, Kris sits down with Sam Prentice, District Hydrologist for the USDA Forest Service, to speak about how wildfires are impacting our Giant Sequoia groves, the surrounding communities, and what we can do about it.
This episode also dives into our history of fire management, or mismanagement, in the United States, and how current government bodies and nonprofits are not on the same page for a mitigation plan.
Links from this episode:
- Save The Sequoias Act
- 10 Tips to Prevent Wildfires
- Smokey Bear’s Helpful Website
- The Sequoia Conservation Fund
Read the Access Fund article about how wildfires are impacting climbers.
Plug Tone Outdoors is part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Check out our website or follow along on Instagram to learn more about our other shows.
This episode of Plug Tone Outdoors was created and produced by Kris Hampton.
Music by Mepa Melson, Serge Quadrado, Anton Vlasov, LesFM and Coma Media from Pixabay.com
Find a full transcript of this episode, images from Sam, and more, at the blog post for this episode.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Every summer, Kris emcees the International Climbers Festival here in Lander, Wyoming. One of his favorite parts of doing the event is being able to introduce the keynote speakers. It was quite a lineup this year, with big names like Chris Kalous and Brittany Goris. But it was one of the opening speakers who ended up stealing the show: Indian climber and force of nature, Prerna Dangi.
Prerna’s time in Lander was just one of many stops she’s making this year on a big climbing trip throughout the US. With plenty of hours logged in the alpine, on a rope, and over crash pads, she’s got experience and goals on ice, rock, and beyond. But her biggest goal of all — and the one she’s certainly dedicating the most to — is to continue building an empowered community of female climbers in India.
DISCUSSED IN THIS EPISODE:-
How Prerna got her start in climbing.
-
The climbing scene in India and how it differs from here in the US.
-
The ongoing development of climbing in India.
-
How organizations like CLAW (Climb Like a Woman) are empowering women in India to climb.
-
How Prerna is finding her power — as a climber, a role model, and a community leader.
Support Prerna through The Climbing Leadership Fund!
Learn more about CLAW - Climb Like a Woman!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Today's episode comes from Hip Hop Taught Me Everything, another podcast hosted by Kris Hampton and part of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Without a strong rhyme to step to. Think of how many weak shows you slept through. Time's up. I'm sorry I kept you.
-Rakim, "I Know You Got Soul"
Follow all of our shows at:
Hip Hop Taught Me Everything Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing Plug Tone Outdoors Plug Tone Audio
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Welcome. There's a lot to get caught up on. Let's get into it.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Resin, rosin, pof. Whatever you call it, it's widely accepted that we should NOT use it while climbing. It's said to ruin holds - both indoors and out. Now it might be in your chalk. Block, liquid, and powder.
This is a public service announcement.
Learn more about the science of climbing on Breaking Beta.
Read more about pof and rosin usage:
Why Climbers Started Using Chalk
Removing Rosin from Liquid Chalk
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Ten years ago this week in April, 2012, Rannveig Aamodt made a nearly fatal mistake while cleaning the anchors of a sport route in Turkey. She fell 50 feet to the ground, shattering her back, pelvis, arm, and both ankles. We won’t be going into what caused the accident, but you can read that story, including some heart wrenching excerpts, at her blog about the accident.
Instead, this episode is about her recovery. The physical and mental approach she took. The resilience and the will. It’s about how she went from clinging to life, to climbing harder than ever, and what it took to get back on the sharp end, and past the spectre of that moment.
This conversation originally aired on February 19, 2016.
Find Rannveig online: Her Site. Instagram. Facebook. Gallery of rehab photos from Nathan WeltonThe Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Today we're revisiting Episode 4 of The Average Climber Podcast. If you aren't already subscribed to their show, go do that now!
Learn more about The Average Climber Podcast.
Find Lauren at Good Spray Climbing.
Find Caitlin at Caitlin Holmes Nutrition.
If you haven't listened to Breaking Beta Season 1, get caught up now!
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Check out the new course at the Power Company Climbing Academy - The Shape of Power.
You'll get:
- Nearly 3 hours of discussion and instructional videos with Nate and Kris.
- In-depth analysis of 10 bouldering case studies, both indoor and out.
- 4 Practice Sessions to help you start using these skills in the gym.
- Downloadable Course Guide Ebook.
- Self-paced instruction and unlimited access to course materials.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
This episode is the first 40 minutes of a nearly 2 hour long episode about gamifying climbing, and the pros and cons of individual popular games that many of us play.
To get the final hour of this episode, and at least 2 bonus Board Meetings every month, become a Patron!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode we hear from Emily Holland at Nature Untold, in a re-airing of her episode Eating Disorder Recovery - We Can All Do Better Together.
Featured in this episode are Dr. Jennifer Gaudiani, Jenna Celmer, and Caroline Wickes.Resources for eating disorders:
-
The Gaudiani Clinic Instagram (has free resources and information)
Catch up with Jenna Celmer:
Catch up with Caroline Wickes:
-
Article: Weighing In: Does Climbing Need an Eating-Disorder Intervention?
- Episode: Caroline Wickes | Eating Disorders in Climbing
Thank you, as always, for listening to this episode. Please follow along on the show’s Instagram, our private Facebook group, or wherever you’d like. We also have a Patreon if you’re interested in supporting everything Nature Untold is cooking up.
______________________________
Learn more about Hip Hop Taught Me Everything.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Today I'm bringing you the season finale of my other climbing podcast, all about the science of climbing, Breaking Beta. In this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez:
Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbersauthored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzalez-Badillo; published in the Journal of Human Kinetics in 2019.
They’ll attempt, once more, to determine whether or not scientific evidence exists in favor of a single hangboard protocol being more effective than the rest. Tune in to find out if we have a clear winner in the ring between Max or Intermittent Hangs, or if Paul and Kris are destined to be discussing hangboard studies for many more seasons to come!
*Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode:
From Episode 1: The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology, 2012.
Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please, just like in Episode 1, tell all of your ridiculous friends who still claim that they know the best hangboard protocol, that you have the perfect podcast for them.
Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.
Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram
Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram
If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub.
Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.
2 million downloads. Whew. Who knew, 260-some episodes ago that we'd get here? To say thanks for all of the support, I've got 3 bonuses for you:
#1: This episode is a bonus from the We Scream Like Eagles Patron Only Podcast. If you're interested in getting more like this, you can become a Patron.
#2: We're giving away three free self-guided Proven Plans. To enter to win, all you have to do is sign up for the Plug Tone Audio newsletter. You can do that at the bottom of the page at www.plugtoneaudio.com We'll be drawing the three winners on Friday, 2/28/22
#3: I'm taking a break. I'll be working on Plug Tone and building new shows for you, and I'll be back with renewed focus, a slightly new format, and an even better version of this show.
Thanks.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Climbing gyms have become big business. Giant gyms are popping up all over the world, with bigger walls, more holds, and massive square footage - but what of the community? Is it being left behind in favor of selling memberships?
Not necessarily.
Long time climbers Josh Muller and Regan Kennedy own Bolder Climbing Community in Calgary, and through their branding and community-focused efforts, they’ve built a thriving business that withstood the pandemic and still keeps them excited to climb.
In this episode I sit down with Josh, gym manager Jordan Jasper, and photographer/videographer Nic Nolet to discuss the idea of community and what it means to each of them.
In this episode we discuss:-
Why having “community” in the name is important.
-
How a welcoming community draws people in.
-
The role of mentors.
-
Should gym mentorship extend to the outdoors?
-
How gym layout and merch can help build community.
-
How building community translates to good business.
Find Bolder Climbing Community online.
Work with Nic on your photo and video projects.
_____________________________________________________
Check out our Proven Plans and be ready for the spring season!
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
The best coaches understand more than just which muscle is the prime mover in a specific lift. They understand sports science, behavior, habits, motivation, and maybe most important: struggle. Aman Anderson understands all of these things and more. And he thinks big.
As if being a small business and gym owner isn’t enough, Aman also dedicates his time to coaching the next generation of climbers and building one of the most exciting competitions to hit climbing in many years: The Beast Fingers Loud Climbing Combine.
The BFL Combine is a blend of sports science, climbing culture, and urban culture. Loud music, deep bass, strong climbers, and feats of strength. The next combine will happen on April 9, 2022 in Denver, CO.
If you want to get involved, email Aman at beastfingerstraining@gmail.com
________________________________
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Climbing is complicated. It’s physical, emotional, psychological, and depending on the person, tends to either quiet or amplify the things you have going on outside of climbing. Not to mention, the climbing community can come with its own bad habits that might feed your demons.
Emily Holland is a podcast coach and host of the incredible podcast Nature Untold. She tells stories of addiction and recovery in the outdoor community. Today we tell her story. A story of how sobriety helped her find her way back to climbing, and how a supportive community has made all the difference.
In this episode we discuss:-
Why climbing was a toxic place for her.
-
What changed her mindset.
-
How’s she’s leaning in a little at a time.
-
The role that sobriety - and Nature Untold - played.
-
How a caring community can make the difference.
Find Emily online.
Learn more about Nature Untold.
Find Emily on Instagram at Instagram
We don't tweet. We scream like Eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Whether a Moon Board, Tension Board, Grasshopper, Kilter, or any of the other number of boards making their way into climbing gyms or homes worldwide, there are certainly ways to get more out of them. Assuming you have other options for training and climbing, there are also many things the boards don't do so well.
In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss the ups and downs of board climbing, including a collection of drills we've made specifically for the boards.
Check out our Proven Plans.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
The Climbing Initiative is a nonprofit supporting the sustainable and equitable growth of climbing worldwide. It began in 2019 as a research project at Yale University documenting the international expansion of climbing and its economic, social, and environmental effects. Now the group advises climbing organizations, spreads best practices, and works directly with climbing communities around the world to help them flourish.
Today I sit down with Executive Director Veronica Baker to discuss the mission of The Climbing Initiative (TCI) and the challenges they - and we as the global climbing community - face.
We also discuss their Best Practices project - a collection of living documents that is gathering the voices of climbing leaders around the world to shape the future development of our sport.
As climbing grows, it is having incredible economic, social, and environmental impacts. Climbers are creating new hotspots for ecotourism, building tight-knit communities, advocating for the conservation of natural areas, and using climbing to uplift and inspire.
In their work partnering with local climbing communities, they’ve connected with many climbing leaders paving the way with innovative approaches. As a result, the Best Practices are focused on six main areas:
-
crag development & maintenance
-
environmental conservation
-
equity & inclusivity
-
community engagement
-
economic impact
-
building climbing organizations
Support The Climbing Initiative.
Check out the Best Practices.
Watch the Access Fund videos we mention in the episode.
Find TCI on Instagram.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode I sit down with my friend Lauren Abernathy, who you might recognize from Good Spray Coaching. We first discuss the change from being a weekend warrior to being in the midst of her first trip specifically for a big, ambitious project as a full time coach who can climb when she wants to. We also get into the challenges of being a female coach - having your expertise questioned and dealing with the abundance of mostly male internet idiots.
You can find Lauren online at Good Spray Climbing.
Follow her on Instagram.
From now until the end of December, use the code GOODSPRAY to get 20% off of any of her self-guided programs you'll find HERE.
NEW PLUGTONE PODCAST ALERT!
Breaking Beta drops on Wednesday Dec. 8th!
We are happy to welcome Switchback: An Outdoor Community Podcast hosted by Kelsee Keitel, a licensed educator and outdoor based mental health counselor. You can listen to a short episode that I really enjoyed, Curiosity Killed the Criticism, on Spotify or on Apple Podcasts.
And in this very episode we announce a brand new podcast we have in development! Go listen!
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Introducing a new podcast brought to you by Power Company Climbing, Crux Conditioning, and Plug Tone Audio: Breaking Beta!
Is it possible to make research and science both more fun - and frankly - more useful for coaches and climbers?
That’s what we needed to answer. Now that we’re a few episodes into recording this podcast, I can honestly answer YES. It takes a lot of work, but yes. Our goal is to do that work for you.
In this podcast, coaches Paul Corsaro and Kris Hampton are getting together in the lab weekly to look at the body of research - both climbing specific and more general sports science - that is often cited by climbers on their quest to improve. We’ll take each study, break it into its components, explain it in a way that doesn’t make your eyes glaze over, and then discuss what we find useful and as well as the ways in which these studies are so wildly misinterpreted by damn near every one of us.
Season 1 of Breaking Beta drops on Wednesday, December 8th. Every week for 10 weeks we’ll be getting deep into finger strength, tendon health, creatine, flexibility, climbing specific injury, and more. What the research says, what it doesn’t, and how you’ve been getting it all wrong.
Make sure you’re subscribed, hit the follow button on Spotify, and tell your friends to tell a friend. Particularly that one friend who is always citing his wild misinterpretation of the research. Tell him you’ve got the perfect podcast for him.
Brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning.
Find Kris and our main Breaking Beta content on Instagram.
Find Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram.
Get transcripts, citations, and more at our site.
Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.
Breaking Beta is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Dear Alex,
Congrats on 100 V10's!
Follow Alex on Instagram.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Andy Leung is the head setter of Climb Time Cincinnati - a community that is near and dear to my heart. In this episode we discuss not only the career of routesetting, but also what it means to both the setter and the community, how it can help us all grow, and what to keep in mind in order to keep moving forward.
Follow Andy on Instagram.
Learn more about Climb Time.
You can find the Breaking Beta Podcast on Spotify and on Apple Podcasts.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this Board Meeting, rather than make a list, Kris and Nate discuss their individual top picks for the most common, most egregious, absolute worst tactic we see sport climbers using. If you're making this mistake, consider actively exploring something different in your next session.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this Board Meeting, rather than make a list, Kris and Nate discuss their individual top picks for the most common, most egregious, absolute worst tactic we see boulderers using. If you're making this mistake, consider actively exploring something different in your next session.
Watch The Worst Punt of all Time video.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
How do we get better at climbing? That's a question we ask, and are asked, ALL THE TIME. One of the best answers is certainly something along the lines of, "Be very intentional about challenging yourself while climbing as many things as you can."
A bit simplistic, but it works.
Kerry Scott embodies this. From her goal to climb 100 new boulders in a year from V3 to V11, to doing her hardest boulders, to her recent send of Mango Tango (14a) in the New River Gorge on a week long trip, Kerry gets after it. Consistently.
Check out Kerry's 100 Boulders Diamond.
Follow Kerry on Instagram.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Juliet Hammer is a straight up crusher, with over 30 double digit boulders under her belt. Still, she isn't immune to the dark side of the internet. The side which so regularly has to push their "expertise" on grades and climbing. Many of these people are too incompetent to understand how incompetent they are - the Dunning-Kruger Effect. And their comments can be harmful to not only the original poster, but anyone who reads them.
In this episode, Juliet and I unpack a recent reel she posted to Instagram, of a V10 gym boulder, that brought the trolls out.
Watch the reel we discuss in the episode.
Follow Juliet on Instagram.
Check out Juliet's website.
Check out these other episodes we mention:
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Doing the work in a social media world can take its toll. Today, good friends Briana Mazzolini-Blanchard and Devin Dabney discuss the hammers they wield, the way they interact with the work they do in public, and what that might mean for their well-being.
Learn more about Climb L8.
Follow Briana on Instagram.
Learn more about The American Climbing Project.
Follow Devin on Instagram.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Hueco Tanks State Park, just outside of El Paso, Texas, is one of the world’s premier bouldering destinations, and for good reason. An oasis (literally) in the middle of the desert, Hueco houses every type of boulder you can imagine. You’ll find classics of every style, from techy slab to featured roof, and enough “party trick” boulders to keep you busy for damned near ever.
Learn more about for training to climb in Hueco Tanks at the blog post for this episode.
Check out our Applied Body Tension Ebook.
Check out Fingers+ and all of our bouldering training plans in our Proven Plans.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In July of 2020 we released an episode with Devin Dabney in which we discussed a podcast idea he’d been mulling over for quite some time. A podcast that would look at social issues within the climbing community from a variety of perspectives. Much of the feedback around that episode was that people wanted to hear more from Devin. He needed to do that podcast.
Fast forward a little over a year, and The American Climbing Project has just dropped Episode 3: Now That’s What I Call Racism.
Devin is one of the most thoughtful humans I know. Not to mention WILDLY creative. It’s been my absolute pleasure to give advice where needed and get a front row seat to watch him grow. Plus, I get to collaborate with him regularly, which pretty much means I’m winning.
If you haven’t listed to The American Climbing Project, go do it. If you haven’t read their blog, then DEFINITELY go do that. It’s an educational treasure trove. Devin and Rob do a spectacular job of teaming up to make something really special. Something this community needs.
Learn more about The American Climbing Project.
Follow ACP on Instagram.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
This summer I had a dinner at my house with a group of folks who I have immense respect for. Like-minded climbers who are interested in both exploring their own personal limits and pushing the community to be better. After the dinner, I heard the same feedback from nearly every person: that conversations with Lor were the highlight of the night. Lor is a climber who leans into every style in a really intentional effort to improve. They are a Warrior's Way coach who has the incredible ability to listen, empathize, and ask you very kind questions that introduce you to the precise first step you need to take. That might be an actionable first step, or it might be a thought or emotion you’ll have to grapple with, but it will lead you in the right direction.
Because of this, I decided to (very selfishly) turn this episode into, essentially, a private coaching session.
I’ve recently been leaning into my fears of tall boulders and trying to document my process. I asked Lor to watch a video I had made about a recent scary project, a V10 called Flight of the Antelope, and give me feedback on my process. They delivered with an absolute gift of a conversation. Climbing better isn’t about just getting physically stronger. It’s about confronting whatever obstacles you find in front of you. Dancing with them instead of fighting. Better understanding your own motivations, and not taking the easier path just because it’s easier. Lor has written for us before about Finding Joy in Improbable Goals - an article that inspired me to lean harder into the things that scare me. They are the subject of a brilliant documentary film from Patagonia called They/Them that will be released on October 6th. 30 seconds into watching the film I said, out loud, “Fuck, I know exactly how that feels.” Lor has dealt with all of the same fear that you have. They have leaned into it, and emerged a better teacher for it. This film does a fantastic job of highlighting this incredible human. Work with Lor at The Warrior's Way.
Watch the video we discuss in the episode.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode Kris is in the hot seat, and Luke Mehall takes over the interview duties. They discuss entrepreneurship, hiphop, climbing, and how creativity filters down through all of it.
This episode aired previously on the Dirtbag State of Mind Podcast, found wherever you consume pods.
You can find Luke, the zine, and the podcast at The Climbing Zine.
Follow them on Instagram.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In an Instagram post announcing that he had accepted the head coach position at The Climbing Academy, Kyle O’Meara wrote:
“I love the way we each find our own path in this sport. Some of us crave higher performance and chase the next level forever. Others seek an adventure where discovery and creativity are the primary focus. Most fall somewhere in the middle. We can ALL go further and bigger no matter what end goal inspires our personal pursuit, and if we’re enjoying the process, appreciating the journey, and smiling lots along the way, then that probably counts as ‘winning’.”
Climbing is an individual thing. What drives me may not be the same thing that drives you, and that’s ok.
While mentorship is – on its surface – a noble pursuit, it can often go wrong. Mentors are human and are just as prone as the rest of us to overvalue their own selfish ideas, and then pass them on to the next generation without much thought toward necessary change or evolution of those ideas.
Personally, I admire most the mentors and thinkers who work hard to directly engage with this unavoidable evolution. The ones who simultaneously continue their own growth. That interaction, even more than advancing the grades we climb, is what allows progress to happen and continue.
Mentorship isn’t dead. We just need more mentors like Kyle.
Follow Kyle on Instagram.
Get tickets for the Joe's Valley Festival.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Smith Rock, about 30 minutes outside of Bend, Oregon, is a destination that should be on every sport climber's list of places to visit. It’s the birthplace of American sport climbing and home of the first 5.14 in the country, To Bolt or Not To Be. Beside that, our guest on this What When How to Train episode, local Justin Brown, claims that it’s the best example of this technical, old school style in THE WORLD.
That’s a big claim, but Justin, owner of Rhino Skin Solutions, stands by it. Littered with small edges, pockets, and horrible feet, most routes at Smith provide options for all sizes of climber to find their way through the devious technical sequences.
Find Justin, and all the skin care products a climber could need, at Rhino Skin Solutions.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Stefano Ghisolfi recently made the 2nd ascent of Bibliographie, a proposed 15d (9c) first done by Alex Megos in Ceuse, France. This would have made Stefano only the 3rd person to climb the grade - behind the two climbers widely considered as the best in the world. But Stefano chose to say that the route isn’t 15d after all, but 15c (9b+). Why?
In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss grades, downgrading, egos, pressure, and how these two climbers handled the situation in an incredibly mature, progressive way. But is it the best way? Does it matter?
These are exactly the kinds of conversations our Patrons get more of. 2 extra episodes every month. You can become a Patron at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
We don’t tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this Board Meeting, Kris and Nate sit down to discuss the many pieces of advice that, when actually looked at, make no real sense, but simultaneously make all of the sense in the world. It's easy to ignore catch phrases and cliches, but if this episode helps you stop and think the next time you hear one - and as a result you actually change your behavior accordingly - WIN.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
A quick look at Cody Kaemmerlen’s Linked In profile reveals this bio: Lives by simple beliefs; advocate for the underrepresented and oppressed, use your privilege with honor and be aggressively kind.
More than anyone I’ve ever met, Cody lives by these words. He’s a passionate advocate for what he believes in - somehow without coming off as pushy - and as soon as I saw him announced as Director for The American Alpine Club’s new Climb United initiative, I knew I wanted to talk to him. His position seems impossible, but if there’s anyone who I believe can find and hold onto the hope and possibility within it, it’s Cody.
Learn more about the Climb United initiative.
Watch the Route Name Open Forum.
Follow Cody on Instagram.
Learn more about Wilder Mind.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Today we've got a special teaser for Episode 2 of Devin Dabney's American Climbing Project - The Great Equalizer. Listen to this and then go listen to Episode 1!
Learn more about the The American Climbing Project
Follow ACP on Instagram
Support them at https://www.americanclimbingproject.com/support
The Power Company Podcast and The American Climbing Project are both productions of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Climbing has never been a purely physical pursuit. Even if that is the initial draw, climbing has a way of pulling your mental and emotional states in, utilizing and amplifying them, and ultimately, if you arrive with awareness, helping you understand those states better. All while we get to try as absolutely hard as we want to. Beautiful.
In this episode, I sit down with Blake Cason and discuss the intersection of our climbing and the rest of our lives, and how our habits and lifestyle off the wall can affect our performance on the wall.
Blake is a climber and great conversationalist who holds a Master’s degree in Health Behavior and Education, is founder of Pivot Wellness, where she is available for Integrative Wellness and Life Coaching, and an expert in habit setting.
Blake is also one of the founders of ClimbWell, a retreat dedicated to the intersection of rock climbing, wellness, and intentional life design.
Learn more about ClimbWell
Learn more about Pivot Wellness
Follow Blake on Instagram
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Nate and I are joined by NRG local Jeremy Rush to discuss the ins and outs of preparing for a trip to what might just be the best sport climbing area in the country: West Virginia's New River Gorge.
You can find the most up to date access info at NRAC.
Check out Water Stone Outdoors.
Learn more about training for the NRG at this episode's blog post.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Our guest today is THE Canadian event MC: Pete Woods. He's a coach, long-time MC of comps in Canada, and recently made his broadcast debut with the IFSC for the Salt Lake World Cups alongside Meagan Martin.
Follow Pete on Instagram
Read the article Pete mentions from Gripped.
See Pete's follow up with Plastic Weekly.
You can find his podcast Beyond The Walls on Apple Podcasts and Spotify
_______________
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
BONUS EPISODE! This episode comes from our Patrons Only We Scream Like Eagles podcast.
We've released this episode into the wild because we wanted to give you a taste of the extras we deliver to the Patrons.
You can become a patron at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
You can find Nate's blogpost on this topic at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/walk-away
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
This is the first episode of a new series that digs into the details of what, when, and how to train for some of the most popular climbing destinations in the US and beyond. For our first episode of the series it only makes sense to start with the Red River Gorge.
Find lots more tips for training for the Red at this episode's blog post.
Got a trip to the Red planned? Check out our RRG Trip Prep Plans!
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
This episode is a panel recorded live at the International Climbers' Festival a few summers ago in Lander, Wyoming, featuring Steve Bechtel and Charlie Manganiello from Climb Strong, and Neely Quinn and Matt Pincus from TrainingBeta.
You can find tickets for this year's ICF at www.climbersfestival.org
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Thanks for sticking through this with us and for supporting this thing! As a bonus, today I sit down with the book's illustrator Brendan Leonard to talk about his perspectives and why this collaboration worked so well.
You can find Brendan online at Semi-Rad Media.
Follow Brendan on Instagram.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Lee Smith has taught more people the importance of dedication than he can possibly know. In this episode, the only one that I actually assigned to someone, I get to sit down with Lee to debrief about one of my proudest sends as well as one of his hardest fought - and still fighting - battles.
Follow Lee on Instagram.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Our dear friend Mario Stanley, host of the Sends and Suffers podcast, joins me to talk about the one piece that is often missing: bigger goals and bigger efforts.
Find Mario online at www.mariostanley.com
Follow Mario on Instagram.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Our very own coach Paul Corsaro joins us to discuss a trap that pretty much every one of us will eventually (or regularly) fall into: confirmation bias. Do you look for ways to prove your hypothesis? Or do you seek out the reasons it might be false?
Follow Paul on Instagram.
If you're in the Chattanooga area, check out Paul's gym, Crux Conditioning.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Brittany returns to discuss an essay that I wrote while re-examining my role as a coach/mentor/leader. Inevitably, when you help people succeed, egos will inflate. Is there a way around that?
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Lauren and Nate join me to discuss the importance of seeing the process through - an element often forgotten when talking about the importance of the process.
You can find Lauren at Good Spray Climbing.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Ryley returns to discuss one of my favorite topics. As climbers, we often end up chasing success... but is there a better way?
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Briana returns to discuss everyone's favorite topic: grades. There is precious little logic in the usual discussion around grades - it ends up being mostly emotion. We do our best to inject a little logic.
Follow Briana on Instagram.
Learn more about Climb L8.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
I met Al and Ziggy at a bouldering workshop on our Oz Tour in 2019, and was immediately taken by their excitement for improving at climbing, and by how much they dug into the concepts I was teaching that night. In this episode we discuss how to keep things in perspective when your days aren't dominated by climbing, and the importance of partners who help you keep those few days moving forward.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Sydney Smith is not only an excellent community builder, but she's also someone who thinks and reflects deeply on her own climbing. In this episode we discuss one of the toughest things for any athlete - hell, any person - to deal with: ego, particularly when intimidated.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Ryley Rush LOVES climbing. Her genuine joy for it is palpable, and makes it even more interesting to explore what's happening when things feel harder than expected. Ryley and I discuss the struggles of getting outside enough to be comfortable there, and how important partners who care can be.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Dale Wilson is our data analyst, coach, and resident meme curator. His wider view of data and how to best use it is MASSIVELY important for us. In this episode we discuss how easy it is to get sucked into continuing training your strengths, and end up completely blind to your biggest deficiencies.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
We are incredibly lucky to have Jess on our coaching team. She brings a wealth of knowledge, a background in many areas of training and performance, and she's the coolest. In this episode we discuss the differences between working out and training - and why working out might be just fine for you.
Follow Jess on Instagram.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Briana sets big goals and chips away at them - including climbing, social justice, and community building. In this episode we discuss how it easy it is to get off track, and what might help keep you on.
Follow Briana on Instagram.
Learn more about Climb L8.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Tom and Amanda are two of Australia's best climbers, and hosts of a great podcast, Baffle Days. We did some time zone wrangling to talk about one of Tom's super powers - the art of the punt.
Check out Tom and Amanda's podcast and shop. Check out Thrive.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Sarah and Taylor are back to discuss one of the most important - and overlooked - aspects of becoming a better climber - trying HARD.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
You all know Nate. While there's no need to introduce him, I really appreciate that he's not only my cohost for the Board Meetings, but that I also have a collaborator who believes in what we're building. In this episode we discuss the phenomenon of sandbagging - which very likely happens FAR less than you think it does. Yes, you.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Devin Dabney is a creative polymath who I'm honored to call a friend and collaborator. In this episode we discuss not only the bad habits of boulderers, but how they relate to our lives in general.
Follow Devin on Instagram.
You can find his new podcast, The American Climbing Project, anywhere you get pods.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
We're lucky to have Nadya Suntay on our team. She's thoughtful, dedicated, and damn strong! If you're in our Proven Plan group chats, you know what kind of champion she is!
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Sydney Smith is a thoughtful community builder who is a General Manager of Momentum Texas. They are lucky to have her. Lauren Abernathy from Good Spray Climbing brings her energy back for another episode.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
My good friend Yasmeen is back in this episode to discuss getting sprayed at - in general and as a woman in the gym.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Yasmeen is one my oldest and best friends, and is a thoughtful, and all-around badass human and climber.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Taylor and Sarah are dedicated climbers who I spent some of my best seasons sport climbing with, and have taken on the mentor role themselves.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Lauren Abernathy is a climber and coach who brings a huge amount of good energy to everything she does. You can find her online at Good Spray Climbing.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Sarah Kremer is a coach and climber who has figured out how to care immensely about both her team AND her own climbing.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Jenn Bouma is someone I've watched accept lesson after lesson with excitement and curiosity. That might just be the magic bullet.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Miles West is a thoughtful routesetter who has certainly heard his share of excuses.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Brittany Hoffman was absolutely integral to the making of the book, but more than that, she's been a key part of my growth over the last 2 years. In this episode, the Introduction to many days in a row of episodes, we discuss the important role she played.
Be sure to snag your own copy of The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become a Better Climber.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Apply for the Catalyst Grant at https://americanalpineclub.org/catalyst-grant
In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss the top 5 ways you can - if you are so inclined or need to - shorten your climbing sessions without sacrificing quality:
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Giving that extra bit of effort can make all the difference, but there is a thin line between that and overdoing it. It's a frustrating topic to find any real information on. In this episode, Nate and I explore this line.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Eating disorders and disordered eating are a real, but often hidden problem in the sport of climbing, and many of us unwittingly perpetuate the idea that less weight is better. In this episode, Caroline Wickes and I sit down to discuss her personal experiences with eating disorders, as well as the things she learned while researching for her Climbing Magazine article, Weighing In: Does Climbing Need an Eating Disorder Intervention?
For help with an eating disorder, contact the NEDA Helpline.
Check out the study from Lenae Joubert referenced in the episode.
Check out the documentary film LIGHT.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
EPISODE 2motherfuckinghundred. WHAT?? Thanks for riding with us for all this time. In this episode, Kris gets grilled by friends Zach and Lana on all things about the podcast. Where we've been and where we're headed.
Some of the other episodes mentioned in this episode are:
Ep. 12 POE with Will Anglin and Rowland Chen
Ep. 54 Feminism in Climbing with Shelma Jun
Ep. 50 A Coaching Masterclass with Lantien Chu
Ep. 57 Flow and Mental Mastery with Hazel Findlay
Ep. 58 Comparing Hangboard Protocols with Steve Maisch
Ep. 63 Belief and Partnership with Tommy Caldwell
Ep. 64 Fixed vs. Growth Mindset with Trevor Regan
Ep. 66 Now What? with Dan John
Ep. 93 Being Good Climbing Partners with Scott Pagel and Tyler Algeo
Ep. 98 Diversity in Climbing with Brown Girls Climb
Ep. 118 The Best Hangboard Protocol with Eva Lopez
Ep. 129 Success and Failure with Mina Leslie Wujastyk
Ep. 145 Intentional Community with The BlackHeathens
Ep. 156 Try Harder with Troy Fauteux
Ep. 173 Show Up As You Are with Devin Dabney
Ep. 177 Black Joy with Mario Stanley and Dynell Hunter
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Hard climbing is, well, hard. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss one of the unrealistic expectations that training can bring about - that everything should just feel easy.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
You should absolutely take yourself over to Sends and Suffers and listen to this episode with pro climber Nina Williams, hosted by our dear friend, the incredible Mario Stanley.
And be sure to check out more episodes of Sends and Suffers.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Hopefully, for most of us, 2020 was a year that showed us we need to be more cognizant of the language we use and the effects that it has. That shouldn't end with 2021. In this episode, Nate and I discuss the most popular terms in climbing that we aren't fans of.
I'm a firm believer in the power of words. Intention and context are important, but equally important is how something is generally received. If I can help or allow people to try harder, feel more comfortable, and feel less excluded just by changing the use of a word - particularly a word that could easily be replaced like most terms in this sport - then I can't imagine why I wouldn't do it.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode, Zach and I discuss the ideal wall angle for training, maintaining good footwork when only climbing on steep walls, getting good use from vertical walls, and how to remain resilient as we get older.
Check out our Boulder Builder course, available NOW!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode, Zach and I discuss how often we repeat old projects, campus boards, motivation when you set by yourself, simulators, and forcing moves.
Check out our Boulder Builder course, available NOW!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode, Part 4 of 6, Zach and I discuss setting for specific movement drills, the benefits of getting bunchy instead of just going big, determining rough grades on a spray wall, how to set boulders that don't suck, and calling yourself out on repetitive setting.
Check out our Boulder Builder course, available NOW!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
I asked, and we got a LOT of questions about home walls, spray walls, and the like, so we've split it into 6 parts - or more actually, since a few of the questions will warrant their own entire episode.
In this episode, with Zach Alexander of 42 North Bouldering, we discuss marking and keeping track of problems, the value of old resin grips, volumes on a home wall, symmetric walls, and setting limit boulders.
NOTE: We mention the Eat Spray Love app, but are aware that it's no longer a thing... These days, we've been using - and loving - Retro Flash.
Check out our Boulder Builder course, available NOW!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
I asked, and we got a LOT of questions about home walls, spray walls, and the like, so we've split it into 6 parts - or more actually, since a few of the questions will warrant their own entire episode.
In this episode, with Zach Alexander of 42 North Bouldering, we setting a spray wall, hold density and placement, training endurance on a home wall, and how to build a library of problems that are effective for your training.
Check out our Boulder Builder course, available NOW!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
I asked, and we got a LOT of questions about home walls, spray walls, and the like, so we've split it into 6 parts - or more actually, since a few of the questions will warrant their own entire episode.
In this episode, with Zach Alexander of 42 North Bouldering, we discuss climate control hacks, the ideal home wall, warming up when you don't have lots of jugs, getting holds, big holds on a small wall, jibs vs. heelhooks, and getting trapped into long sesssions. And there are 5 more parts!!
Check out our Boulder Builder course, available NOW!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
I often hear climbers lament how difficult it is for them to climb or train with their partners who climb at a different level than they do. While I agree it can be hugely motivating to have a partner who is working on the same things that you are - who you can share beta and tactic ideas with - it's also 100% up to you to find the motivation to keep pushing when that partner doesn't materialize.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Through the vehicle of rock climbing, Mario Stanley coaches kids (and adults) to become better humans. He’s created programs for all ages, but perhaps the most interesting to many youth coaches out there are the teams he’s created as a feeder into the storied programs of Team Texas.
His big personality translates to his mentorship. It’s powerful and you know without a doubt that Mario has your back. I appreciate that from a coach - and from a friend.
Find Mario online at www.mariostanley.com
Find him on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/mariostan
Find Sends and Suffers on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/sendsandsuffers
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Taylor Fragomeni is a routesetter, coach, and all around genuine human. We met in Bozeman, MT at Spire, where she was the head setter and youth team coach. I was impressed by her place in the community as well as her approach to coaching, and we've been in contact since. We sat down at my house while Taylor was traveling from Bozeman to St. George for her new job at Contact Climbing to talk being female in the routesetting industry and lessons that she's taken from routesetting into coaching.
Follow Taylor on Instagram.
Train with her through Tangent Climbing.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
I might impart wisdom, or I might cut your head off. That's really up to you.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
The title says it all. We do it too much. We blame the routesetters for our own failings, our own shortcomings, our own lack of commitment, our own destructive ego. It's not their fault. Here's why...
You can see the blogpost referenced in the episode at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2018/1/14/rock-climbs-make-terrible-gym-problems
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Eric Jerome loves lists. All kinds of them. Lucky for us, he also happens to be a brutally strong boulderer with a penchant for nerding out about all things bouldering.
I sat down with Eric and special guest Max Zolotukhin (one of the few people with a nerd level to rival Eric’s) and did my best to hold my own in one of the nerdiest conversations this podcast has ever hosted. Turns out, we only got about 1/3rd of the way through what we needed to. Hopefully at some point I’ll get these two to sit down again for more in depth examination of the most subjective objective list ever created.
You can find the Top 100 List, complete with videos, at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/top-100-boulders-us
You can find Eric on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/eric.jerome
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month!
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In Part 3 of our series on Bouldering Tactics, Nate and I sit down to discuss the tools needed to be an effective boulderer. Ok, maybe not all of them are needed - but all of them can be helpful. Find the Crag Kit and Boulder Bag at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/essential-elements
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Part 2 of 3.
In this episode Nate and I sit down to try and parse out a topic that is FAR too big for one episode - bouldering tactics. We intended for this to be a 2-parter, but it ended up being over 3 hours total, so we're making it a 3 part series instead.
You can find the new Crag Kit and Boulder Bag at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/essential-elements
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode Nate and I sit down to try and parse out a topic that is FAR too big for one episode - bouldering tactics. We intended for this to be a 2-parter, but it ended up being over 3 hours total, so we're making it a 3 part series instead.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Brandon Belcher is an Atlanta based climber who loves slopers and cats and carefully chooses his words. Those words often carry an important impact - one that many of us need to better understand.
You can find Brandon on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/mr.bigstrings
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
It's been a hectic few weeks (months) over here, and I wanted to give you all an update on what we've been working on. So many exciting things coming! I also wanted to play you a short clip of a podcast episode I recently listened to that needs to get into more ears. Episode 11 of Sends and Suffers with Melissa Utomo - even though I knew of the situation - was eye opening for me. I think you'll want to hear it.
Melissa on Sends and Suffers on Apple Podcasts
Melissa on Sends and Suffers on Spotify
Sends and Suffers on Instagram
Get a signed copy of Big Walls by Paul Piana
Level up your campus training with the new Power Strips!
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month. If you’re a regular listener, you may remember the conversation from Episode 106 with trainer Joslynn Corredor about her experience with breast cancer and identity after a double mastectomy.
Since we last spoke, Jos has created a GoFundMe scholarship program for women who are going through similar situations to train with her. We all know that once being an athlete has become part of our identity, having it stripped away can be devastating. Jos aims to restore that identity for other women.
You can donate to the GoFundMe at: https://www.gofundme.com/f/strength-after-a-mastectomy?utm_medium=sms&utm_source=product&utm_campaign=p_susi-sms-welcome You can find Jos online at bodyenroute.com Other good resources for more information and other non-profit organizations doing great things: https://www.politetumor.com/ https://thebreasties.org/ https://www.nationalbreastcancer.org/early-detection-of-breast-cancer/ We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Paul Piana is a legend. There's no debate about that. In this episode Paul and I sit down at my house and discuss his partnership with Todd Skinner and big dreams of big walls.
We have a limited number of signed copies of Paul's 1997 book Big Walls: Breakthroughs on the Free Climbing Frontier. You can get them and find more information on the Todd Skinner Legacy Fund at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/paul-piana
Register for Rocktoberfest at https://www.accelevents.com/e/RocktoberFest2020
You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
This is one of the most special conversations I've ever been a part of. I didn't know what to expect going in, and my emotions surrounding this conversation took some time to work through.
Thanks to Mario and Dynell for being so open and letting me - and us - into this love fest.
You can find Mario and his podcast at https://mariostanley.com/sendsandsuffers
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
We were all beginners once. Nate and I sit down to recount some of the worst pieces of advice we got as beginners, and what advice we wish we'd gotten instead.
Check out our new Proven Plans at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/proven-plans
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Recorded November 2018. Nate and I sit down with our fellow Power Company Coach Paul Corsaro to discuss the top 6 myths we see persisting in the climbing industry.
Check out the new book at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/the-hard-truth
Find the new Proven Plans at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/proven-plans
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Chad Andrews doesn't like the word retired - but he doesn't have to work in anymore - in his mid 30's. The way he got here is pretty simple, and he's entirely willing to share his methods. In this episode we discuss a subject that is strangely taboo - money. We look at some of the steps that climbers can take to become more secure with their financial future.
Find more from Chad at https://clippingchains.com/category/about-us/
You can follow him on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/clippingchains
Check out our new Proven Plans at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/proven-plans
Get those tiny feet at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/holds
Check out the Women's Uprising Virtual Climbing Festival at www.wuclimbfestival.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Devin Dabney is a climber, setter, coach, poet, and rapper. He's a good friend of mine, and two years ago we sat down and recorded this conversation - without a plan and not really knowing what would come out of it. Now felt like the appropriate time to send it out into the world.
We discuss race, tough conversations, mentorship, and making art. At this time Devin was just beginning to find his voice - one I've been proud to watch evolve and gain momentum. I hope that trend continues.
You can find Devin's latest mixtape, If You Didn't Send, It's Too Late at https://deuceishiphop.bandcamp.com/album/if-you-didnt-send-its-too-late
Devin is on Bandcamp at https://deuceishiphop.bandcamp.com/
On Spotify at https://open.spotify.com/artist/6217P5Z5V6r82cO6z0oX0y?si=4XveDS8yRkq_vgEq4m045Q
And on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/deuceishiphop
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Genevive Walker is unapologetic. She knows that it takes all types to make change, and she has the unique ability to be many of those types all at once.
In this episode I sit down with Genevive in between projecting days in Tensleep, WY - a very white town in a very white state that has no hate crime laws - to discuss racism and the ways it manifests in climbing. And what we can do about it.
You can find Genevive at https://www.instagram.com/walkergenevive
You can find Scott at https://www.instagram.com/dscottclarkphoto
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
This conversation originally aired in July 2018. I repost it now because it's my starting point, and may be yours as well.
Find Brown Girls Climb at www.browngirlsclimb.com
Find our online uprising resources at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/uprising-resources
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode Nate and I have a discussion inspired by Episode 3 of Revisionist History from Malcolm Gladwell titled The Big Man Can't Shoot. Malcolm discusses Granovetter's theory of the Threshold Model of Collective Behavior through the lens of shooting free throws.
We work through it in terms of climbing.
You can find The Hard Truth at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/the-hard-truth
You can review the book on Amazon HERE.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
This episode was recorded in Summer of 2018, but got lost in the archives. Now that climbing areas are beginning to open again, it seemed like a good time to resurrect it.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode I try to answer a few great but not easy questions from our listeners.
When do you keep grinding on a project vs. taking a step back and training for it?
What are the differences of training in your 40's vs. your 20's and 30's?
If 2nd Try Sends can help your longterm projects, can longterm projecting help you send faster?
You can find The Hard Truth at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/the-hard-truth
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
So many people right now are struggling with motivation right now. Rather than give only my advice, I sought out the opinions of past and future guests including Sam Elias, Eva Lopez, Jonathan Siegriest, and many others.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode Nate and I breakdown the lessons we learned from listening to Episode 412 of the Tim Ferriss podcast with guest Josh Waitzkin. Josh is the author of The Art of Learning, one of our favorite books, and has a great approach to the learning process. On Tim's podcast, Josh essentially asks the question "What holes do we have in our mental models for learning?" from the perspective of his new hobby. We try to apply the same questions and perspectives to climbing.
The new book The Hard Truth is available for preorder at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/the-hard-truth
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
We're switching things up and answering some of the good questions our community has for us. First up is a really great question that we should all be asking ourselves pretty much constantly - How do I know when to focus on getting better vs. getting stronger?
Find The Hard Truth at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/the-hard-truth
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
It's a widely held belief - and rightfully so - that bouldering will help your sport climbing. But does it always work out that way? If not, why not?
In this episode I sit down with Nate in Houston to discuss the mistakes that sport climbers make in using bouldering as training.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Let's be clear - not every trend is a good one. In this episode, Nate and I sit down in Houston to discuss the trends we've seen recently that we are glad to see becoming popular.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Literally every season, as soon as people are able to get outside, I get the same message. Dozens of times.
"Why am I still getting pumped? The training didn't work! I wasted all that time!!"
While I can almost understand the gut reaction when you've built up the expectations, I can't sympathize. You should know better. Now you will.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
It used to be that training for climbing was out in the open. Wolfgang trained for the hardest route in the world. John Bachar and the Stonemasters turned Camp 4 into a training gym. Tony Yaniro made no secrets about how hard he trained.
Then sometime in the 90’s it became cool to NOT train. I’m not sure exactly when that was, but by the time I was climbing in the late 90’s there was a fairly large faction of climbers who were disgusted by the fact that some people chose to train.
Recently the tides have changed, and Matt Fultz is one of the pro climbers who has led that charge. He’s not at all shy about his training habit - even going beyond the extremely climbing specific training that most pros will allow to be seen. What I didn’t expect was how much thought and deliberation Matt has put into his training. It kind of blew me away.
A new breed of boulderer, Matt’s training shows up for him in big ways. A glance at his 8a scorecard shows nearly 500 double digit boulders up to V15/16. That’s no accident.
In this episode Matt and I sit down a week before his annihilation of the Hueco Rock Rodeo (video below) for a wide ranging discussion on training, grades, weight loss, and more.
Find Matt on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/matt_fultz/?hl=en
Watch Matt rampage at the Hueco Rock Rodeo at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0odpC6_wcY
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Brittany Leavitt is an educator. By profession, by passion, and by choice. It’s a choice I appreciate. She’s also a listener, though maybe that goes hand in hand with being an educator.
I sat down with Brittany because something about the way she presents herself online, and the fact that she's involved in EVERYTHING, made me want to know more about her perspective. She recently went on a roadtrip sponsored by Patagonia, on which she asked important questions to the people she met - I wanted to know how she would answer.
You can find Brittany online at https://www.britleavitt.com/
You can find her on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/bleavitt8
Groups and Organizations Brittany is affiliated with:
Sign up for the Performance Climbing Coach Seminar at www.performanceclimbingcoach.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
We've all done it, and not always for the right reasons.
Find the new Proven Plans at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/proven-plans
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Yves Gravelle is a legendary Canadian strongman, and pound for pound may have the strongest grip in the world. I suppose that likely helps him climb V14, but it's not the only reason. He's also a workhorse who is a stickler for the details. He's also a father, husband, business owner, and youth coach. Somewhere in there he's found time to be an Armlifting World Champion with numerous world records, as well as a prolific first ascentionist near his home in Ottawa.
You can find Yves on Instagram at: https://www.instagram.com/yvesgravelle
You can check out his mask making company at: https://www.instagram.com/metamorphose_masks
Some of the tools Yves uses:
Saxon Bar: https://www.armassassinstrengthshop.com/products/saxon-bar-custom?variant=29697039237233
Wrist Wrench: https://www.armassassinstrengthshop.com/products/axle-wrench?variant=16730872774769
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Troy Fauteux tries harder than you. His try hard might have gotten him up hard boulders before the mental skills had a chance to catch up - but I suspect those are coming along just fine.
To make the most of this interview go HERE and watch the video of Troy doing The Mandala in Bishop. THEN listen to the episode.
Once you're finished, go HERE and watch this video of Troy just two weeks before doing his first V11. Turn up your volume and enjoy.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Not all goals need to be major, far off events. Not all goals need to lead you directly toward those major goals. Sometimes it's perfectly ok - even encouraged - to have a side goal.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
The phrase “a force to be reckoned with” doesn’t quite do justice to Dr. Favia Dubyk. Yes, she is a force, but that phrase conjures up images of some stoic, menacing figure, and Favia is the polar opposite of this image. She’s funny, excited, genuine, and unassuming - unless you happen to see her in a tanktop. However, it’s not the biceps that I’m most interested in. It’s the brains and the spirit.
In her 3rd year of medical school Favia was diagnosed with late stage Hodgkin’s Lymphoma and given a few weeks to live. A fight that had nothing to do with biceps ensued, and Favia has now been in remission from cancer for several years.
Yes, she is a survivor, but again, she defies the word. Thriver seems to be a much better fit. Dr. Dubyk finished her degree and now works at the University of New Mexico as a pathologist, having switched her focus from sports medicine surgery to an area where she could impact other people who had been diagnosed with cancer. As is evident from the biceps - she doesn’t pour all of her time into pathology. She’s competed on American Ninja Warrior and climbs at a high level - preferring hard roof climbing to other styles.
We sat down in Hueco Tanks for not nearly enough time to hear the whole story, but plenty to know that Favia is indeed a force.
You can find Favia online at www.traversegirl.com
You can follow Favia on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/felinefavia
Watch the ANW video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oybWgRWsB9g
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
If you have been interested in training for climbing for more than a few days, it’s likely that you know of Dr. Natasha Barnes. She’s not only a former national champion climber and champion power lifter, but is a doctor based in San Francisco who specializes in rehabilitation, orthopedic sports medicine and physiotherapy for climbers and lifters.
I’ve known Natasha for some time, and when I booked a workshop in San Francisco, I knew I had to sit down and get her on the show. Hopefully the first of many appearances.
In this episode we discuss pain - how we experience and react to it, as well as actionable ways to try and determine if it’s actually an injury - or just your brain convincing you that it is.
Pain Science Resources
-
Lorimer Moseley “Why Things Hurt” TEDx Talk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwd-wLdIHjs
-
Tame The Beast https://www.tamethebeast.org/
-
Curable Health App https://www.curablehealth.com/
-
Pain is Weird from PainScience.com https://www.painscience.com/articles/pain-is-weird.php
-
Central Sensitization https://www.painscience.com/articles/central-sensitization.php
You can find Dr. Barnes online at https://natashabarnesrehab.com/
You can find her on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/natashabarnes
Check out the all new and updated Proven Plans at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/proven-plans
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Alex Megos may well be the strongest climber in the world. But is he the best?
In this episode I sit down with Megos and his good friend Ken Etzel, the director of the new film that we are discussing, Rotpunkt.
Rotpunkt gives us a rare glimpse into the up and down struggles of someone trying to become the best in the world. Maybe not suprisingly, these are struggles that every single one of us can relate to. Possibly even more fascinating is the bond that was forged between filmmaker and athlete, and the pressures that this bond had to endure while making the film.
You can find the film at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbWvFjUIt5k
You can find Alex Megos on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/alexandermegos
You can find Ken Etzel on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/ken_etzel
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
ONE MILLION DOWNLOADS.
Thank you for the continued and growing support! It means the world.
In this episode, Nate and I sit down to talk about where it all started and why we keep doing it.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Bill Ramsey is a legend. He had achieved near mythical status in the Red River Gorge by the time I started paying attention to sport climbing. Pioneering many of the best hard sport climbs that now draw flocks of people to Kentucky’s steep sandstone crags, Bill wasn’t the typical 24 year old developer with a part time job and nowhere specific to be. He was a Professor of Philosophy at The University of Notre Dame - an over 14 hour round trip to and from The Red - a drive that Bill made weekly. His routes Omaha Beach, Transworld Depravity, Golden Boy, and The Return of Darth Moll, among many other classics, came from this period. He’s done 26 5.14’s - 25 of those after turning 40. Bill recently checked one of his life list, Randy Leavitt’s stunning Jumbo Pumping Hate (14a) at Clark Mountain. He had just turned 59 and was a few days from hip surgery.
To say that Bill is dedicated is a massive understatement, and we haven’t even mentioned his training sessions. Without going too far into detail, Bill has found that marathon sessions work well for him, and he’s stuck to that with great results. Perhaps most intriguing, and most universally applicable, is his idea of The Pain Box, which we discuss in the episode.
As I get older it gets a little tougher to find the same inspiration in the 20 year old crushers that I once did, and there just aren’t that many 40+ year old climbers still chasing progression. Bill has always been someone I’ve looked up to as not only a great example of perseverance and dedication in his climbing, but in his life choices as well. Bill moved from a tenured position at Notre Dame to UNLV so that he could be closer to the year round climbing in Las Vegas. Not content with a schedule that he could fill with climbing and training, Bill gives back to the community as Vice President of the Southern Nevada Climber’s Coalition.
Every step of the way, a legend.
You can find Bill's full Pain Box essay at https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2019/11/11/ep-150-a-philosophy-of-sending-with-bill-ramsey
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
For Dr. Jared Vagy's third appearance on the podcast, we decided to tackle a few hotly debated topics - things like stretching, prehab, training "dangerous" grip positions, and more.
If you haven't listened to Episodes 88 and 107, featuring Jared's Rock Rehab Pyramid, they are worth the time.
You can find Dr. Vagy online at www.theclimbingdoctor.com
You can get his book, Climb Injury Free, at https://theclimbingdoctor.com/product/climb-injury-free-5/
Great video from Quinn Henoch on static stretching that we reference in the episode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgL8GkzpNsw
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Episode 12 with Will Anglin and Rowland Chen quickly became a cult classic. Today we bring them back for P.O.E. Part 2, a follow up to examine how the P.O.E. path they had both embarked on had worked out. If you haven't yet, it will be to your benefit to go back and listen to that episode.
Go ahead. We'll wait.
Both, despite their lives getting busier, have made big progress - not an easy thing to do when you're already climbing at a high level. There have been mistakes, reassessment, taking things too far, desk jobs, and less free time, but they've found their way to progress. Be prepared to laugh, but you might also want to take notes.
You can find Rowland on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/rowwlaaand/
You can find Will on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/wlanglin/
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Science and Data are increasingly popular in training for climbing, and for good reason. Leading that charge is Dr. Tyler Nelson of Camp 4 Human Performance. He's built a strong following on Instagram, and is giving solid information to coaches and climbers all over the world, but as with any post on social media, much of the context is lost. Context that I feel is massively important.
In this episode Tyler and I sit down at The Donut Distillery in Nashville, on our way to teach together at the Performance Climbing Coach Seminar, to discuss how to look at the research, whether science is the end all be all, and what exactly is the context for all of this information.
We also reveal the winner of the Instagram Donut Contest!
You can find Tyler at https://www.camp4humanperformance.com/ and on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/c4hp
You can register for the next Performance Climbing Coach Seminar at https://performanceclimbingcoach.com/
We don't tweet. We scream like Eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
A home wall can be an extremely valuable tool to have at your disposal. Deciding to have one is easy, but that one decision will open up a world of damned near impossible to make decisions. Set board or spray wall? If a board, which one? If a spray wall, what angles, what density, WHICH GRIPS??
So. Many. Decisions.
In this episode Nate and I sit down at Tension Climbing to talk with Will Anglin and Michael Rosato about the first of those impossible decisions - board or spray wall. They have both at their disposal at the Tension Climbing Center, so they intimately understand the benefits and challenges of each.
One of those challenges is that it can be tough to fit a set board into many homewall user spaces. Tension has come up with a solution - their SHORT (H:10ft x W:8ft) and SHORT AND NARROW (H:10ft x W:5ft) “crops” of the Tension Board. It’s essentially the same set, just cropped to a smaller dimension with it’s own set of problems in the Tension App. These guys just keep innovating.
Learn more about the new Cropped Tension boards at:
https://www.tensionclimbing.com/product/tension-board-sets/
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
"A room full of superheroes," is how this conversation was described by an Australian climber at Mt. Arapiles. He's not wrong. In this episode I sit down in Blackheath at the home of Tom O'Halloran and Amanda Watts with a who's who of Aussie climbing to discuss the idea of Intentional Community. Besides Tom and Amanda, we talk with Lee Cossey and Andrea Hah, Lee and Sam Cujes, Julian Saunders, David Brailey, and Vince Day. While we're missing a few key Blackheathens, we got a pretty good representation.
Stick around to the very end!
You can find the Baffle Days podcast HERE and HERE
Connect with Amanda Watts nutrition services HERE
Check out Day Gallery HERE
Connect with Dr. J - Julian Saunders HERE
Everyone on Instagram at:
https://www.instagram.com/tom_ohalloran
https://www.instagram.com/a.mandawatts
https://www.instagram.com/leecossey
https://www.instagram.com/andreahah
https://www.instagram.com/flashandsass
https://www.instagram.com/david_brailey
https://www.instagram.com/leecujes
https://www.instagram.com/day_gallery_blackheath
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Hangboarding is overrated, but it's also important.
Please, for the sake of all that is good in humanity, listen to Episode 143 before you listen to this one. Every time someone listens to this episode out of order, the climbing gods will remove the obvious start to another undiscovered classic boulder. Don't let this happen!
In this episode Nate and I sit down to discuss the antithesis to the previous episode. Hangboarding is important.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Yes, you read that correctly. OVERRATED.
In this episode Nate and I sit down to discuss the top 5 reasons why one of the most popular forms of training for climbing is simply being blown out of proportion. Sue me.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
I'm fairly sure I've gotten more DMs asking when this episode is coming than any other. And it's a good one.
Today's guest is Moonboard legend Ravioli Biceps - the first (and currently only?) person to send all of the Benchmarks on the 2016 Moonboard set. We discuss his history with the Moonboard as well as his struggle with the transition to identifying as a "Moonboarder". We also find out about the genesis of the name Ravioli Biceps.
Legend.
To see the shirts mentioned in the episode go HERE.
To buy the shirts go HERE.
Find Ravioli Biceps on Instagram HERE.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Sometimes you're improving, but the grades don't reflect that. Does that mean you're on a forever plateau?
In this episode I sit down in the Red River Gorge with Aussie legend Lee Cujes - really just to learn more about him. We didn't have a specific direction we wanted to go when we sat down. I just knew I should turn the mic on and ask him questions.
Besides being always stoked for climbing and training, Lee also has an incredible outlook on progression and doing it his way. An outlook that a lot of us could take a piece away from to improve our own.
To learn more about Lee and his history, be on the lookout for an Enormocast episode coming soon and listen to this excellent episode from Aussie podcast Baffle Days.
You can find Lee on Instagram at www.instagram.com/leecujes
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this Board Meeting, Nate is temporarily replaced by our Strength and Conditioning Coach, Paul Corsaro. Paul is a kettlebell expert (among other things), and has converted me. We discuss our top 5 reasons for continuing to use kettlebells in our own training as well as in programming for our athletes.
You can find our Kettlebells for Climbers plan at https://gumroad.com/l/LNxaD
You can find Paul at www.cruxconditioning.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
If Australian Lee Cossey lived in North America, he’d be a name mentioned alongside Tommy Caldwell and Sonnie Trotter as one of the best all around climbers on the planet. That’s because he IS one of the best all around climbers on the planet. For some reason, despite the internet making information easy to share, we in the US are largely blind to what else - or who else - is out there.
Lee has not only established and climbed 5.14+ and hard double digits boulders, he’s also freed several El Cap routes - done in a single push with no fixed ropes - and climbed huge Patagonian walls (Riders on the Storm). He’s also a physio and climbing coach. And husband. And dad. Lee’s wife, Andrea Hah, who makes a cameo in this episode, is an exercise physiologist and bonafide badass herself - maybe Australia’s best female all around climber. She and Lee own and operate Move Clinic, a one stop shop for keeping and making athletes strong and healthy, as well as Camp Street Climbing, an adjoining climbing gym, both located in Katoomba.
I sat down with Lee at his home in the Blue Mountains to discuss some of his philosophies as both a coach and as one of Australia’s strongest (and best) climbers. He’s a legend around there - deservedly so - and like so many legends in this sport, you’d never know unless someone else pointed it out for him.
I’m here to point it out.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Honorary co-host Dru Mack is back in the building, and this time we're talking about what might be Dru's bread and butter - endurance climbing. We both learned to climb in the Red River Gorge, an area famous for it's steep, pumpy climbing, so we both think we're experts on the subject, and we both believe that many of today's coaches are getting it wrong.
We're also, concurrently with this episode, dropping a training program that Dru and I have spent the last week building specifically for people who are going to be heading to the Red River Gorge - though it can be useful for trips to anywhere with the same pumpy style. Red River Pump Prep is an 8 week online group training program, complete with video descriptions for each workout as well as a group chat with both Dru and I for the duration of the plan. There are only 25 spots available! You can find out more at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/pumpprep
You can find Dru at www.drumackclimbs.com and on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/drumack5
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode Nate and I sit down to discuss an important topic - the top 5 reasons why people who train and train and train still can't improve their climbing outdoors. It can be a struggle - there isn't a 1:1 return on training investment, particularly if you don't have a few key things in place.
Do you fall into one of these categories? If so, level up!
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
As the National Coach for Sport Climbing Australia, Will Hammersla has a tough job. The Olympics are now in play, and in a country as spread out as Australia, where it can be 10 hours between major cities, cultivating a "team" is damn near impossible. But he's working at it on a bedrock of solid principles and philosophies, and the work seems to be paying off.
Support the Australian National Team at https://www.gofundme.com/f/2019-international-coaching-season
Find Will and Tri Climbing at https://tri-climbing.com.au/
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
The first of the Oz Tapes! In this episode I sit down with Anna Davey, a professional climber from Perth, Western Australia. Anna has a healthy following on social media, and as a result, gets her fair share of haters. But I know that's only a tiny part of the story - one that starts with a big dream and a lot of hard work. Anna puts in that work and is living her dream.
You can find Anna on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/anna.davey
You can listen to a great podcast episode with her at Baffle Days Podcast.
You can follow Anna on Youtube HERE.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Nate and I aren't always in the same place, but we still want to talk about things. So this is going to be a new, ongoing format - short board meetings done remotely. We plan to discuss current events, hot topics, training ideas - whatever. Could be damn near anything.
In this episode we discuss an often argued about aspect of training - Should you or shouldn't you train the full crimp and pocket grips?
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Created by the coaches of Power Company Climbing, "EMPOWERED: A Bouldering Intensive" is a 3 day bouldering seminar aimed to provide the self-coached climber with the tools and tactics needed to construct effective training plans, analyze their own movement, track measurable progress, and engage a productive mental approach when bouldering.
Where: Crux Conditioning, Chattanooga, TN When: December 13-15, 2019 Fri: 10am - 6pm Sat: 8am - 6pm Sun: 8am - 2pm
*PARTICIPANTS MUST BE 18+ *
You can register at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/empowered
It's gonna fill up fast - get in now!
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Every week I get emails asking about how to start a small business in the climbing space. While I do my best to answer these questions, I also have many of my own. Dave and Yusuf, along with Dave's brother Dan, are some of the people I turn to when I have those questions - or just for short chats that I always walk away from with several important ideas.
Climb SoiLL is opening a new gym, and as a community based business, I wanted to know how that process has been - as well as the building of a business successful enough to expand in the first place.
I sit down with Dave and Yusuf the morning after an exciting and packed SoiLL Showdown to talk through the building of a business and a loyal community.
You can learn more about the new gym and see the announcement video mentioned in the episode at https://stcharles.climbsoill.com/
You can visit the original Power Plant location at https://climbsoill.com/
You can find Climb SoiLL on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/climbsoill
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Epic.
If you haven't listened to Part 1 yet, go do it NOW. It should already be right there in your pocket super computer.
In this episode I sit down at a campfire in the Red River Gorge with Mo, who recently completed her trip to Lotus Flower Tower and the World Championships. Find out how it all went.
You can find Mo at www.moinmountains.com
You can find her on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/mo.in.mountains
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Mo Beck is a professional climber, 2019 National Geographic Adventurer of the Year, multiple time World Champion, stand up comedian (not really but she should be) and all around BADASS.
In this episode, Part 1 of 2, we sit down in a busy Outdoor Retailer hallway to discuss a little of her background, her work with the US Adaptive Athletes, and her big looming trip to the Lotus Flower Tower in Canada's Cirque of the Unclimbables with fellow adaptive climber Jim Ewing. Not to mention, how's she simultaneously trying to train for it AND the World Championships immediately after her trip.
Don't miss Ep. 131 - Part 2, where I catch up with Mo in Red River Gorge for a post-trip follow up. It should already be in your feed!
You can find Mo at www.moinmountains.com
You can find her on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/mo.in.mountains
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk is one of the most open pros out there, and this conversation is no different. Between competition and notching ascents of some of the planets most inspiring lines of up to 14b and V13, she's waged her fair share of battles. In this episode we sit down and discuss roadtrip projects, the difference between competition pressure and redpoint pressure, and what it means to try something you ultimately may fail on.
You can find Mina at www.minalesliewujastyk.com
You can find Mina on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/minaclimbing
You can check out Project Mina at https://vimeo.com/ondemand/projectmina
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode I sit down for an emotional conversation with my good friends Dru Mack and Lee Smith about the interesting topic of mentorship. How it starts, what it means, and what happens when the student surpasses the teacher.
Some say that mentorship is dying. I'm not sure that's true, though mentors are definitely outnumbered by new climbers. As such, it's evolving into something entirely different. Dru and Lee's relationship has straddled these changes, and has evolved into something totally new. Something that while it may not look the same on the outside, has to be founded in trust and direction.
You can find Lee on Instagram HERE.
You can find Dru on Instagram HERE.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Sam Elias really needs no introduction. He's one of America's top sport climbers, so it's likely you've heard of him. While some climbers cultivate an image that is extremely shallow and limited, it's not so with Sam. He wears his heart on his sleeve - as well as his ruminations with that fact. It's been fascinating to watch Sam openly mature in both his climbing and his approach to life, and it's no coincidence that his climbing has continued to elevate as a result.
You can see the Shadowboxing checklist and links to Sam's recent video project with Russ Clune at http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2019/4/23/episode-127-thoughtful-process-with-sam-elias
You can find Sam at www.bookofsamuel.com
You can find Sam on instagram at www.instagram.com/bookofsamuel
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
I'm back in the States and back on the podcast grind. I apologize for the absence. Sort of, but not really. I was rock climbing, and that's gonna win over podcast every time. ANYWAY...
Today's guest is Emily Moore, the Events Manager for the Climbing Wall Association. Last spring I attended the CWA Summit and was blown away by the event. It's what I always hoped Outdoor Retailer would be, but never was. It was not only a networking and meeting space, but also a place for learning from other experts in the industry and for hearing about emerging ideas and conversations.
Brilliant.
Emily has a passion for making all of this happen, and she's very good at it. How she does it all so elegantly, I have no idea, but it happens.
You can find out more about CWA at https://climbingwallindustry.site-ym.com/default.aspx
You can register for the Summit at https://www.climbingwallsummit.org/
Check out the upcoming Performance Climbing Coach Seminars at www.performanceclimbingcoach.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
We went a little overboard on our Oz Tour 2019 Tee Shirts, so we decided to give a few away if you can answer a few questions. I scoured the depths of Australian Climbing Trivia to find these 11 questions - some gimmes and some damned hard.
Here's how it works:
1. Screenshot this podcast (any episode).
2. Share the screenshot to Instagram. Tag 2 friends who may be able to answer the questions as well.
3. Answer the question and include the question number.
4. Tag me (@powercompanyclimbing) and use the hashtag #OzClimbingTrivia
If you're the first to answer, I'll message you for your address (only open to people in Australia) and I'll send you a Tour Tee!
You can find the Airbnb mentioned at https://www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/6124587?s=51 Mention you're a climber before you book and you'll get a discount!
We don't tweet. We scream like Drop Bears.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Yoga and meditation have been practiced for thousands of years, so there's far more to it than the core strength, flexibility, and mental focus promoted by popular culture. Being an absolute neophyte in both worlds, I wanted to learn from someone who is steeped in the traditions - but willing to explore outside the constraints of that tradition.
Susan Ashley Hunt is a spiritual teacher and Buddhist who also happens to have found a passion in climbing. Her holistic and common sense approach to both meditation and yoga are interesting to me, and she makes easy comparisons to climbing and life.
You can find Sue at www.livelightlyyoga.com
You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com
To check out the Airbnb in the Blue Mountains, go to https://www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/6124587?s=51
Don't forget to message her and tell her that you're a climber for a discount - tell her we sent you!
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
It's become accepted that climbers should be lifting weights if we want to maximize our athletic potential. But why exactly? We have lots of reasons, but these are our top 5.
This Board Meeting is a little different. Since our board has grown, so should our Board Meetings. In this episode, rather than Nate, I'm talking to our Strength and Conditioning Coach, Paul Corsaro. The format you've come to know and love is alive and well, and Nate will return soon, but since Paul is an expert in this topic, it seemed like a no brainer.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode Nate and I sit down to answer a few questions submitted through our Instagram Story. Many of the questions were related, so we've tried to piece together a narrative of sorts that answers these questions. More coming!
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
While I like to think that all of our discussions here are important, some are just plain bigger picture than others. This one falls into the bigger picture category.
Recorded live at the 2018 CWA Summit, the Women in Climbing discussion brought up many great points and offered several learning opportunities for everyone present. Special thanks to all of the panelists and to the CWA, particularly Emily Moore and Laura Allured, for allowing me to broadcast this discussion.
The discussion was moderated by Renee DeAngelis, and included Lynn Hill, Shelma Jun, Halcy Webster, Sophia Danenberg, Stephanie Ko Pound, and Becca Droz.
NOTE: The url for the CWA Summit given in the episode is incorrect. You can find the correct url below.
To find out more about the panelists, go to https://www.climbingwallsummit.org/women-in-climbing-plenary
To find out more or to register for the CWA Summit, go to www.climbingwallsummit.org
Follow the CWA on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/climbingwallassociation/
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
For most of you reading this, the truth is that the pros are better than you. Why? Are they special in some way? Some of them don't even "train"! How the hell did they get so good?
Nate and I sit down after recording several other episodes and drinking several beers, to discuss the top 5 reasons why the pros are so good. Some reasons you can use to improve your own climbing, some that just depend on your situation.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Dark Horse, Climber's Climber, Undercover Crusher - whatever you want to call it - today's guest Brian Antheunisse may be it. If you don't closely follow the comp scene or deviate from the typical climbing news cycle, that is. But if you pay attention, you know and respect the name.
I've been aware of Brian for quite some time, and got the chance to sit down with him and discuss his on and off 9 year epic battle with the Fred Nicole testpiece Esperanze (V14). Finding a nemesis in V14 is really not much different than finding one in your first V4. The same lessons, the same frustrations, and maybe, just maybe, the same elation.
You can find Brian on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/bantheunisse/
You can see video of the Texas Legends Comp at https://youtu.be/hTIzNN3BAsU
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Today's guest needs absolutely no introduction, but I'm honored to introduce her anyway. She is famed Spanish researcher, coach and climber Eva Lopez. We sat down in Salt Lake City to discuss the reactions to her research about finger strength, and to find out once and for all, What is the best hangboard protocol?
You can find Eva and her Fingerboard Training Guide at http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/
You can read Eva's research papers HERE.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Ayo Sopeju is a competitive climber, head setter at The Minneapolis Bouldering Project, and an artist who takes the utmost care with his work. This care carries over to all that he does - setting, conversation, everything. I wanted to know where the intersection of his detailed art and his setting happens, and how the calmness and flow he exudes coexists with the competition mindset.
At Ayo's suggestion, we sat down for our conversation at the Minneapolis Institute of Art, which turned out to be the perfect place for this episode.
Check out Ayo's art at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2018/12/26/episode-117-form-and-function-with-ayo-sopeju
Follow Ayo on Instagram at www.instagram.com/think_ele
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
This past October in Minneapolis I had the opportunity to sit down and chat with one of the most exciting comp climbers to watch - recent Pan American Combined Champion Kyra Condie. We talk about coming up in a very testosterone driven climbing culture - one that has shaped much of how Kyra climbs. We discuss her spinal fusion surgery and how that does - or does not - limit her. And of course we get into training for the Olympics, and Kyra's recent switch to full time climbing and training.
You can find Kyra at https://www.kyracondie.com/
You can follow Kyra on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/kyra_condie
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
We all create some sort of mythology around certain routes or grades - a mythology that often says "you don't belong on this route!" Todays guest, Brittany Goris, is no exception to that rule - except that she somehow pushes right through that mythology and sends those routes. I wanted to know how.
I first learned of Brittany after she redpointed the Index testpiece "City Park", a 13c/d fingercrack with a rich history, and thus, mythology. One that she wasn't immune to, yet she pushed through it.
You can find Brittany online at http://soclosewiz.tumblr.com/ and on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/gorisb
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode I sit down with two high-powered women, Eva Lopez and Esther Smith, to discuss how we deal with climbing injury. Not necessarily the details of how to rehab, but best practices for prevention, psychologically coping with, and getting back to climbing after these injuries.
You can find Esther Smith at http://www.grassrootsphysicaltherapy.com/
You can find Eva Lopez at http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
The final part of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in.
To Recap:
5. Bad timing - getting into redpoint attempts too early or too late.
4. Getting stuck in bad beta.
3. Making the wrong links or letting links expire.
2. Spending too much time on one route or projecting in general.
1. Projecting in the wrong range.
You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Part 3 of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in.
You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Part 3 of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in.
You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Part 2 of our 5 part series with Dru Mack, discussing the Top 5 Redpoint Pitfalls that we see climbers getting trapped in.
You can find Dru at www.instagram.com/drumack5
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
For today's Board Meeting, Nate and I sat down with Red River legend Dru Mack to discuss the top 5 most common pitfalls of redpointing. It's a complex process - one that we've all made our share of mistakes in. This conversation ended up being around 2.5 hours long, so I've decided to split it into 5 bite sized pieces over the next week.
You can find Dru on the instagram at https://www.instagram.com/drumack5
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode I sit down with Episode 64 alum Trevor Ragan. If you haven't listened to Ep 64 yet... go do that now. We'll wait.
Trevor and I caught up after a TED X Talk he gave in Lander, to discuss the principles and theories behind motor learning. I quite selfishly gave him scenarios and examples using the drills we've created for our workshops and coaching, and asked how he might improve upon them based on the research behind motor learning.
If you're a coach, this is a must listen to episode. In fact, if you're a climber who wants to learn to climb better, it's a must listen.
You can find Trevor at www.trainugly.com
You can find our Movement Skills ebook, built from these principles, HERE.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Technically, this is Part 2 and 3. If you haven't listened to Part 1, Episode 88, you should do that.
In this episode I sit down with Jared at the CWA to discuss the 2nd and 3rd steps - strength and movement - in his Rock Rehab Pyramid - a system of preventing and rehabbing climbing injuries.
You can find the book, Climb Injury Free, on Dr. Vagy's website HERE.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Joslynn Corredor is the definition of strength and courage. Not only is she a hard working strength trainer, but she’s made some of the toughest choices there are to make in the face of adversity.
With an identity wrapped in being a strong bodied, athletic woman, Jos was diagnosed with the gene mutation BRCA1, meaning that the likelihood of developing breast cancer was high. This left her with what could have been an agonizing decision that threatened the identity she’d worked so hard to cultivate, but Jos came prepared.
Find Jos online at https://www.bodyenroute.com/the-g/2018/9/16/facing-my-risks
Find links to BRCA resources at http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2018/10/6/episode-106-strength-identity-and-cancer-with-joslynn-corredor
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Fame and authenticity don’t always go hand in hand. We’d love to believe that in climbing they always do, but that just isn’t the case. As someone who makes their living in a very public way within the climbing industry, I’m hyper aware of my own authenticity, and I watch other public figures in our tiny sphere to see how they navigate. Because Sasha is at the top, I watch her closely.
In this episode Sasha and I sit down in her house in Boulder, CO to discuss her recent trip to Alberta, Canada. She drove north alone, after a break up and social media firestorm, to climb the Rockies Trilogy first established by Sonnie Trotter. Three 5.14 Big Walls. No small undertaking. She struggled, doubted, pulled it back together and sent, and she found out in a big way how to reconnect to the roots of her climbing.
You can find Sasha at www.sasha-digiulian.com
You can check out our new Circuit Tape at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/circuit-tape
Get the Core Strength for Climbers ebook at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/ebook
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode Nate and I break from the Top 5 format to have a simple discussion about how climbers are products of our environment.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
My good friend and Episode 16 guest Dru Mack stopped by during the International Climbers Festival in Lander to chat, and of course the conversation turned to climbing. He told me about a list that Jonathan Siegrist had created for him - a list that is a surefire way to make sure that Dru's development as a climber isn't lacking.
I needed to know more, so I sat down with Dru, Nate, and our friend John Wesely to discuss the list, and the potential growth (and pitfalls) that might be involved in the attempts at completing the list. There's also some very important commentary from a special guest.
We always have a lot of fun in this podcast, but this episode was particularly fun to record and put together. I've known Dru since his first 5.12's, so it's fun to see him progressing both in climbing and in life. Dru has become a Red River superstar, and well on his way to taking that to a larger platform. Since JStar so graciously offered his help, we thought it would be great if Dru came up with similar lists for the up and coming Red River Climbers.
Dru drafted his lists, Nate and I critiqued, and eventually the lists were finalized. We wanted to follow the format JStar had put forth - some of the routes are going to feel hard for the grade. Some of them are going to teach you new skills. You'll learn from every one of them.
So download them to your phone, print them out, stash them in your guidebook. Have Dru sign your copy when you see him.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Today's episode is a question and answer session from our Performance Climbing Coach Seminar, recorded live in Columbia, MD. On our final day the participants asked questions of our presenters, including Steve Bechtel and Charlie Manganiello from Climb Strong, Neely Quinn from TrainingBeta, Tyler Nelson from Camp 4 Human Performance, and Kelly Drager from the Canadian Climbing Team.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Don't get us wrong... we LOVE gyms. And if your only goal is to be as good as you can in your gym, then you can skip this episode. However, if you want to be prepared for the outdoors, then this episode will be important for you.
Gyms are businesses and have to operate as such. They make prudent decisions that are beneficial for them as businesses, but aren't necesarily good for you as a rock climber.
In this episode Nate and I discuss the Top 5 decisions that gyms make (often from necessity) that are holding you back from your outdoor goals.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
We're flipping the script for our 100th (!!!) episode. Nate takes over the host mic, and I do my best to let him lead the conversation. After being at the helm so many conversations, it's hard for me to relinquish that role.
In this episode we talk about my years of Weekend Warrioring, and how to climb hard while also being dedicated to a career and family. We dig into how many hours of training it takes and how to make that happen. We also get into how the recent changes in my life and situation have changed how I have to look at my climbing.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
I've heard Tonde Katiyo described as a ninja, a samurai, Buddha and Yoda, among other ethereal, higher level beings. Though Tonde is definitely a human, those descriptions aren't necessarily wrong.
In conversation it's quickly evident that Tonde has put quite a bit of thought and care into his craft. He approaches it with both a pragmatism and creativity that often don't exist together. Partly because of this juxtaposition, many in the routesetting industry seem to look to Tonde for their cues, and he doesn't give answers lightly.
Instead, he asks questions.
Tonde and I sat down at the Climbing Wall Association Summit to discuss his vision for setting... both present and future. We dig into his ideas concerning circuits, the RIC (risk, intensity, complexity) Scale, the silent partnership between climber and setter, and art versus design.
If you came here looking for answers, you may not find them. What you will likely find are more questions. According to Tonde Katiyo, those may be the best answers of all.
For the photo of Tonde with Yoda ears and holding planets in his hands, as well as links to his instagram and videos, visit us at The Episode Page
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
These are three of the most dynamic women I've ever had the pleasure of having a conversation with. They've put their souls into their work. I went in prepared (and nervous) for a very serious discussion, but they so easily toggled between joking and focused that I was put completely at ease.
Brown Girls Climb aims to promote and increase visibility of diversity in climbing by establishing a community of climbers of color, encouraging leadership opportunities for identified women climbers of color, and by creating inclusive opportunities to climb and explore for under represented communities.
We sat down to discuss diversity in climbing. It's a complex topic, and while you won't find answers here, per se, thoughts may be sparked that lead you toward your own answers.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Sending a route 2nd try is NOT THE SAME as the 2nd Try Send. The difference isn't even subtle. It's a whole different animal.
In this episode Nate and I discuss the What, Why, How, and When of the extremely valuable skill of the 2nd Try Send.
Learn it. You'll be glad you did.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
If you aren't aware of Jorg Verhoeven, it's likely that you don't pay all that much attention to climbing. Jorg is one of the most accomplished all around climbers on the planet, having climbed 14d, V15, and freed the Nose and Dihedral Wall on ElCap. He's also an accomplished comp climber, having been on more than 25 World Cup podiums for bouldering and lead, and having won both the Combined World Cup Championship and the Overal Lead World Cup Championship.
He climbs hard. He climbs well. On all terrain, in all the places.
In this episode I sit down with Jorg in Vail to discuss his big goal of climbing 15b, and the website he's started to let us all follow along, www.project-9b.com. Project 9b is a rare glimpse into not only the training of a pro climber, but the thought process behind it, the tactics employed, and the emotions of success and failure.
You can find videos of Jorg from LT11 HERE.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Ryan Gagnon is rare blend of data driven research and infectious enthusiasm, particularly when discussing his programs built to introduce and engage minority youth in climbing. I attended a talk that Ryan gave at the CWA Summit, and afterward sat down with him to talk. Because I know very little about the challenges that a gym might face in implementing these programs, I pulled in my friend Valerie McDonough, who manages Rockquest Climbing Center in Cincinnati.
You can find Ryan online at www.ryangagnon.com
You can email Ryan at ryan@usaclimbing.org or ryangagno@clemson.edu
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Long before John Sherman was a crusader for the plight of the California Condor, he was a bouldering pioneer, brilliant writer, and creator of the bouldering V-scale. In this episode we sit down in Hueco Tanks to discuss his accomplishments as well as to argue about his most infamous creation.
John's list of strong opinions is nearly as long as his list of first ascents, and the only reason it hasn't doubled is because he holds onto an opinion for dear life. I admire that, and I love to argue it. Of course, Verm doesn't bat an eye in telling me how wrong I am. I drag Alex Puccio and Matt Wilder into the fray, because they happened to be in the room. At times, the audio was rough, but I did my best to make sure you get the full conversation.
One of John's strong opinions is in saving the California Condor. His photos of these majestic birds are incredible, and if you'd like to donate to the cause, you can do so at The Peregrine Fund. Be sure to choose "California Condor" for your gift.
Read a touching tribute from John to Condor 337 at http://www.vermphoto.com/blog/2016/6/in-memory-of-condor-337
We're all rooting for Verm as he makes an attempt to re-send the worlds most famous boulder problem... something like 100 years after he first rocked over on that spooky mantle. You can join him at www.oldmanlightning.com and root him on, heckle him, or whatever. After this next colonoscopy, there's no way he's not sending.
Thanks to Dawn Kish at www.dawnkishphotography for the cover photo.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
A good climbing partner can be your greatest asset. If you dispute this, it's because you've never had a great partner, and you're just going to have to trust me.
This episode could easily have been categorized as a Not So Average Joe episode, or it could have damn near been one of our upcoming Power Couple episodes. This is because both of these guys still don't quite understand what their capable of, and it's unlikely they would have yet reached their current level without the other on the belay.
I've worked with both Scott and Tyler for quite some time, and I'm damned proud of the work we've done. We all sat down together in Cincinnati to discuss the ins and outs and ups and downs of being climbing partners. What it means, how to recognize it, and how to cultivate it. We walk through a season that for both of them has been paradigm shifting.
They are two opposites who have built something that both can stand on to reach further, and are eager to continue learning and improving. While Tyler is the more analytical of the two, both analyze every detail of their climbing days and talk it over.
For the comparison videos mentioned in the episode, go HERE.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Aicacia Young believes that health begins in the gut, and she LOVES to talk about it. So much so that it almost makes me excited to do the same. Almost.
In this episode we get into the basics. How do we know we need to improve our gut health and how do we go about it? What products do we use, and how much is enough? And maybe the most fun, what exactly is going on in there that constitutes poor gut health?
Aicacia is a Registered Dietitian and owner of ClimbHealthy.com. She's also the Director of Scientific Affairs at Microbiome Labs, maker of some of her probiotic recommendations, which you can find below. At the time of this interview, she was a freelance copywriter for them.
Find Aicacia on Instagram HERE
Go HERE for Aicacia's probiotic recommendations.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode, in the midst of a gym tour, Nate and I sit down to discuss how we feel about climbing gym grades. Do they matter? Should they be taken seriously? How do they relate to outdoor grades? And possibly most important, what the hell do we do with them?
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Perhaps the greatest attribute of any successful coach is their ability to effectively communicate with their athlete. Without buy in from the climber, no training plan can be effective. Without communication from the athlete, the right changes can't be made. Success is often directly proportionate to that relationship.
In this episode I talk with a successful coach/climber team: Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel. Taylor has helped coach Bella to big success on the international stage. She's the USA Climbing Youth National Champion in speed climbing, as well as a qualifier for the US Youth Team in all 4 disciplines - Sport, Speed, Bouldering, and the Olympic Combined Format.
In one of my favorite moments of the episode, Bella talks about the photos her mom takes of her, exhausted at the end of a drill prescribed by Taylor. She happily agreed to share those photos with us, and her reasoning is exactly why I wanted to have this conversation. https://powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2018/4/16/episode-90-the-coachclimber-dynamic-with-taylor-reed-and-bella-jariel
Check out Taylor's Beta Angel Project, a site dedicated to making research and data available and accessible to coaches and climbers. If you're a regular listener, you know that I have an aversion to reading research, though I understand that it's a necessary evil. I'm happy to know that there is a place I can go where other climbers have already examined the research and thought through it. I truly believe this will end up being a go-to resource for the community.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Peter Bonamici is a midwest legend. He'll disagree with that, but it's my podcast, so I can make that statement if I want to. Not to mention, it's true.
This entire episode stems from a conversation with Peter in which he told me that he'd just learned to heel hook. After climbing his first V13. What?!
It's pretty simple, really. The reason that Peter, and so many other climbers, are legendary, is because they are good at climbing. Not just strong, but GOOD. They didn't get that way by accident. They got that way through a very intentional practice. One that many of us can learn from.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
You've undoubtedly seen the book, the videos, or heard Dr. Vagy in other podcasts. In this 3 part series we're going to dig into the concepts behind the easy to follow system of prehab and rehab that Dr. Vagy has built.
In Part 1, we're tackling mobility, and how it relates to both avoiding injury and rehabbing from it. Dr. Vagy walks me through many of the mobility drills that he recommends for climbers, and makes it easy for anyone to follow along, which I suggest you do, no matter how silly you think you look. It doesn't look as silly as coming to the gym with an injured finger and a tweaked knee and sitting there spectating.
Find Dr. Vagy online and buy the book at www.theclimbingdoctor.com
Find the warmup mentioned in the episode at https://youtu.be/B86QxHCDiM0
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Todays episode is Part 5 in a 5 part series exploring the concept that "Common Sense Isn't Always Common Practice.
Today we discuss Principles vs. Prescriptions. How do you know which is right for your situation?
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Todays episode is Part 4 in a 5 part series exploring the concept that "Common Sense Isn't Always Common Practice.
Today we discuss Training Where You Are vs. Where You Want To Be. We all want to train like the pros... but should we? Is that even what got them there?
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Todays episode is Part 3 in a 5 part series exploring the concept that "Common Sense Isn't Always Common Practice.
Today we discuss Generalization vs. Specialization. There is a time to grow your skill set, but it can also be appropriate to focus on one aspect of it. The differences can be subtle.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Todays episode is Part 2 in a 5 part series exploring the concept that "Common Sense Isn't Always Common Practice.
Today we discuss Pyramids vs. Towers. Should you be out there building up your base, or is it ok to jump to the next level? There's an argument... and a time... for both approaches.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Todays episode is Part 1 in a 5 part series exploring the concept that "Common Sense Isn't Always Common Practice.
Today we discuss Quality vs. Quantity. How much is too much? How can you focus on quality, and when should you?
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In Part 2, continued from yesterday's Episode 81, Edwin and I come up with our Top 3 List of things we've learned from climbing with better climbers.
You can find Edwin Teran and his photography online at www.edwinteran.com
Follow him on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/edwinteran/
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Climbing is unique in that we get to share the playing field with the best in the game. I can't think of a moment when you shouldn't use that to your advantage and pay close attention to what the better climbers at the crag are doing. Not just how they move (that too!), but how they structure their day, how long they rest, how they warmup, and what their attempts look like.
So much to learn.
In this episode I sit down with my good friend Edwin Teran and talk about his unique position as a photographer and regular partner to many pro climbers. Edwin is an incredibly thoughtful climber, so he isn't going to let many learning opportunities slip by, and we dig into some of the best.
You can find Edwin online at www.edwinteran.com
You can follow Edwin on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/edwinteran
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this much requested episode, I sit down with Salt Lake climber and coach Steve Maisch to discuss assessments. Steve had some of the first assessments I remember seeing online, and we go into how he's added, subtracted, and refined those. We talk a little about Steve's own assessments, and an important thing that he overlooked in his own training.
Many of us coaches are loosely collecting data for these assessments, but how important is it all, really?
You can find Steve online at www.stevemaischtraining.com (if he ever gets his site back online)
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
There are appropriate times to say "Take". There are also instances when saying it is only slowing your progress. In this episode, Nate and I sit down in Bozeman, Montana during our work at Spire Climbing Center to discuss a topic that many people don't realize that they don't fully understand.
Don't forget to share the podcast with your friends, your enemies, and strangers on the street. They'll thank you, and so will we.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
With the amount of available information on training for climbing growing rapidly, it becomes increasingly harder to know what is worth keeping and what's trash.
I've been considering this type of episode for some time, but when I read a recent article from Climbing Magazine, I knew I had to do it. Among many uninformed statements in the article is one that states "a good way to build power is to try difficult moves when you're already tired."
Not only is this incorrect, but it's dangerous.
I was all set to tear this article apart. Instead, I've decided to turn this into something positive, and make it a learning experience for all of us. Not everyone reading the article - or any article, post, book, whatever - can easily recognize which information is worth saving and what should be thrown out, so let's explore several ways that you can use common sense to recognize when to seek your information elsewhere.
Don't Believe The Hype.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
When Beth Rodden redpointed To Bolt or Not To Be in 1998 she became the youngest woman to climb 5.14a. Fast forward 20 years and Beth's website lists her as "Mother - Pro Climber - Writer". Mother first. Climbing is growing up.
Beth and I sat down in Jackson, Wyoming while she was there to speak at The Teton Library Mountain Story series, despite delayed flights and a busy schedule. I wanted to know how climbing had changed for her since her son Theo was born, and what tips she might have for parents who are embarking on their own adventures.
One of the most accomplished climbers of all time, it hasn't been all smooth sailing for Beth, and we dig into that and how it's informed her decisions. Her entire identity was as a climber. What happens when you're climbing 4 or 5 NUMBER grades below your previous best? Are you still a climber? Where does your identity go?
Beth has a good hold on this, and we can all learn from it.
You can find Beth at www.bethrodden.com
See Beth's recommendations for kid gear HERE.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Dr. Allen Lim is a sports physiologist, author (you can find his great cookbooks below), and founder of Skratch Labs. We sat down at Skratch headquarters in Boulder, Colorado for what might be the most fascinating and easily digestible (pun intended) look at nutrition and hydration ever recorded. Seriously.
We talk how hydration works and why water just isn't enough. We also go into recovery and why Skratch decided not to mess with the magic of chocolate milk. Because I think it's important for you (and me) to understand, Allen explains the lineup of Skratch products and how and when to best use them.
You can find Skratch Labs at www.skratchlabs.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Heather Weidner doesn't need an introduction, but this episode certainly does. When I recently watched a film made about Heather's ascent of China Doll, putting her into a small group of women to have climbed 14a on gear, I was left with a bad taste in my mouth. It seemed that given the current gender climate, the filmmakers, Jon Glassberg and Caroline Treadway, could have crafted a story that didn't depict Heather as so dependant on her husband, Chris Weidner, for not only support, but to also tell and show her how to climb the route.
Shortly after, Heather wrote a blog post indicating that she felt similar upon seeing the film, and I knew I had to talk to her about it. The omissions, the contradictions, and the lessons.
You can find Heather online at www.heatherclimbs.com
You can find Jon Glassberg and LT11 at www.lt11.com
You can find Caroline Treadway at http://carolinetreadway.com/
You can see the film at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vZG7FTDM9U
You can read Heather's blogpost at https://heatherclimbs.com/2017/12/08/the-china-doll-contradiction-behind-the-scenes-of-the-film/
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
If you've heard of Justin Salas, you may refer to him as a "blind climber". You'd be wrong. He's a climber who happens to be blind, just like you're a climber who happens to have sight.
I had the opportunity to session with Justin at Tension Climbing, and it was fascinating to get to observe and be a part of his process, and talking through it with him was just as interesting. The tools that Justin uses to climb into the V-double digits are the same tools that we use, and the same ones that many of fail to cultivate. We've got a lot to learn.
You can find Justin online at www.justinsalas.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Russ Clune has climbed in more places than you. That is, unless you're Brittany Griffith (maybe). Climbing since the late 70's, and having climbed in around 50-some countries, I wanted to know what the legendary Clune had learned from other climbers in other cultures, and how he's applied that to his own climbing. His climbing partners are a who's who list of legends: Wolfgang Gullich, Lynn Hill, Patrick Edlinger, Jerry Moffat, Todd Skinner, Ron Kauk, and many others. Russ not only fed off of their abilities, but noticed their tactics and their approach.
Travel is one of the most important and easiest ways to improve as a climber. It doesn't need to be travel to some exotic place. That scrappy limestone cliff in the backwoods can be a perfect place to learn a new technique.
And it doesn't have to be with superstar climbers. There can be as much to learn from how the eager 5.11 climbers conduct themselves as their is by watching Megos on his latest project.
You can climb with Russ in the Gunks through www.alpineendeavors.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Marina Inoue is a 5'2" force to be reckoned with. She's intimidating until you talk to her, and then she's the sweetest person you've ever met. Then she pulls onto the rock and straight up crushes your project. But you can't be mad at her, because she'd be stoked if the tables were turned.
It was her amazing attitude that led me to talk to her for this interview, and it's the same thing that makes me look forward to the next time I get to climb with her.
You can find her online at www.marinainoue.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
It's a new year, and it's our 2nd birthday! It's been a wild ride, and I want to say thanks to everyone for being on it with me.
In this episode Nate and I talk goal setting. Not resolutions. Goals. Different animals altogether.
How to set appropriate goals, some of the pitfalls, what the research says, and we even give up some of our own goals.
Speaking of which...
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Routesetting is hard. You know that if you've tried to set your own problems. It's also hard on the body, so it's difficult to keep a high level of fitness while setting full time. Jonathan Brandt has continued to improve as a climber while simultaneously running the setting crew at Climb Nashville, which is opening two new gyms next year. In this episode we discuss comment boxes, World Cup setting, simulators, and more.
Jonathan will be hiring routesetters! Hit him up at jonathan@climbnashville.com if you're interested.
Also, definitely check out the Hotter Than Chicken Bouldering Competition hosted by Climb Nashville every July. If you have both fingers AND a stomach of steel, this might just be your ticket to greatness!
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Constance Lightner is, in my mind, a perfect representative for climbing parents. At a time when we're seeing a whole generation of young crushers becoming adults, the role of the parent has become more and more important. Connie didn't have a connection to climbing before her son, National Champion Kai Lightner, found the sport, but she's dove in headfirst and become an official mom for many of America's young superstars. She's one of the people that I make a point to see when I know we're in the same city. Every conversation is both entertaining and informative, and I walk away with jewels that I can apply to my own life, climbing, and business.
You can find Kai online at www.kai-lightner.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
No, that isn't a typo. It would be amazing if we kept all our attributes forever, but the reality is that we lose things, we forget things, and we just stop doing some of the things that made us good to begin with.
In this episode, Nate and I sit down to discuss the Top 3 things that we used to know and practice, and we wish we still adhered to.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode I sit down for an important conversation with wordsmith Kelsey K. Sather. We discuss her series of blog posts titled "The Work Behind the Body", a series of interviews with female outdoor athletes in Bozeman, Montana. Kelsey delves into the details of Body Image, and that being a topic I don't know much about, I was both excited and nervous to struggle through the conversation.
Thanks to the Bozeman community, and to Spire Climbing for allowing us to record this conversation live at their gym.
You can find Kelsey online at www.kelseyksather.com
You can find the Work Behind the Body series at http://kelseyksather.com/the-work-behind-the-body/
Read Kelsey's beautiful tribute to Inge Perkins at http://kelseyksather.com/journal/in-loving-memory-of-inge-perkins
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Last summer I started a list titled "Non Climbing (realistic) Dream Guests". I only got as far as one name: Dan John. I was planning to be in Salt Lake for the OR Trade Show, so I emailed Dan on the off chance that he'd do an in person conversation. To my surprise he emailed back almost immediately, scheduled a call for the next day, and invited me to his house to workout and record the conversation.
If you've taken even a cursory look into the field of Strength and Conditioning, you've seen the name Dan John repeatedly. He's often quoted by other coaches, including all of us here at Power Company Climbing, and his pragmatic approach to training is one that has resonated with me since I read his book, Easy Strength, co written with kettlebell guru Pavel Tsatsouline.
I went to his house to discuss his newest book, "Now What?", which asks and answers the important questions that coaches and athletes often forget to ask. After you've done your assessments, you've trained and met the standards, you've won or lost, or your season is over... Now What? This book follows two other excellent books from Dan called "Intervention" and "Can You Go?", both of which should be required reading for coaches.
The wisdom that Dan shares concerning coaching and dealing with athletes is impossible to overvalue. While he's worked with Olympic and Professional athletes, he still makes time for an open workout in his simple garage gym at 9:30 every morning, where he both dispenses knowledge and learns from whoever shows up that day. After a workout in Dan's gym, this style of what Dan calls "intentional community" is exactly how I plan to build my own home gym.
You can find Dan at www.danjohn.net
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
It's been a while since Nate and I sat down and did one of these, so we figured we'd kick it back off with a shorty. The interwebs are going crazy with Andrew Bisharats new miracle hangboard program, Five Minute Fingers, and we've gotten several messages asking for our opinion.
Here it is.
You can find the original article at www.eveningsends.com/five-minute-fingers
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Growth Mindset has recently become a hot topic in the world of sports, and for good reason. Mindset, which can be greatly affected by the feedback you give or receive, is key to learning and performance. Trevor Ragan is one of the most well versed in the science of learning and how mindset affects it, and he's out there working with teams, coaches, teachers, and businesses to actually apply the science.
Trevor is the founder of Train Ugly, a group dedicated to sharing the science behind mindset, feedback, and the learning process, and how it relates to performance. I highly suggest you visit Train Ugly online and spend time watching their excellent videos or reading their material. It'll be time well spent.
During our conversation, Trevor gave me a great list of resources where we can learn more about these topics. If you buy through our links at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2017/11/6/episode-64-fixed-vs-growth-mindset-with-trevor-ragan-from-trainugly, we get a small percentage from Amazon (it doesn't raise your prices) to help support the podcast.
Find Trevor online at www.trainugly.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Tommy Caldwell needs no introduction to any of you. I thought I knew it all too, until I read his recent memoir, The Push. If you haven't read it, buy it HERE and read it NOW! I'm not sure exactly what I expected from the book, but I didn't expect Tommy to have looked so deeply into his own past and motivations in order to discover where his nearly maniacly focused drive comes from. Put simply, it blew me away.
Tommy stopped over to sit and chat with me in Lander about two of the topics that I felt permeate his climbing: Belief and Partnership. So often we don't believe we can do a route because of one move that we have trouble with. Imagine that there are dozens of those moves over more than 3,000 feet of climbing, and it takes you years to unlock them. Would you stick with it? Would you believe? And what kind of partnership is required to make that happen?
You can find Tommy online at www.tommycaldwell.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
The final episode with the Gnarly folks is one I had to talk them into. They wanted to educate, and I wanted to educate you all about what they have available. So we did both.
In this episode Shannon and I discuss the products that Gnarly Nutrition offers. They've got a great line of products that many of you will find useful. Even if you still aren't a supplement person, you may learn something about why supplements are so popular. After using their products myself, I certainly can understand the convenience. I mean, you people are fiends, and that makes me ridiculously busy. So sometimes, I need the convenience.
If you want to try Gnarly, go to www.gognarly.com and use the code POWERUP20 for 20% off of your order.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Part 2! In this episode Dr. Shannon O'Grady and I discuss the hot button topic of protein. Why do we need it, how much we need, and what's the best way to get it. Gnarly has both Vegan and Whey protein powders, and you can get 20% off by using the code POWERUP20 at checkout at www.gognarly.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Some more nerdy talk for all of you training nerds out there. This time we go deep into the world of Branch Chain Amino Acids (BCAAs) with Dr. Shannon O'Grady, Ph.D., Director of Product at Gnarly Nutrition. BCAAs are more than just the new fad supplement. We talk about what they are, why we need them, how to use them, and more.
This is the first of a 3 part series with Shannon and Gnarly. We'll also be discussing all things protein and taking a look at their entire line to see what we can benefit from as climbers.
Get 20% of at www.gognarly.com using the code POWERUP20.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Fresh off of his audacious free solo of Freerider, Alex Honnold sat down with Arno Ilgner and Jeff Lodas from The Warrior's Way to discuss his mental preparation. Arno asked me to record the conversation, and though I was running around The Salt Palace like crazy, I got it on tape for all of you to hear.
Two mental fitness giants, discussing a topic that is, at best, tough to pin down. Alex has done an amazing job of reflecting on what it is that makes him different, and is able to articulate it better in every interview I hear him in. This one is no different.
You can find The Warrior's Way at www.warriorsway.com
You can find Alex at www.alexhonnold.com
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
One of the guests most requested by our listeners, Steve Maisch is a Salt Lake City climber/coach/economics professor who, much like myself, uses himself as a guinea pig to test new approaches to training. As such, we decided to nerd out on a couple of topics. For this one, we discuss the different hangboard protocols, when and why to use them, what they can do for you, and where they can go wrong. I'm sure we forgot a few, which is ok, because we can always record more...
You can find Steve online at http://www.stevemaischtraining.com/
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
I'm not often intimidated by people, but Hazel Findlay's reputation is much larger than her 5'2" frame, so I was a bit anxious about this conversation. Mental training can be a pretty nebulous topic to begin with, so if I was going to be stumbling over my words, it could end up being a rough conversation. Not long after Hazel showed up at my house, it was clear that while she is indeed a force to be reckoned with, there was no reason to fret. As she would say, my worry was all "rubbish".
Hazel has a really great way of taking these concepts that are sometimes tough to connect with and making them seem simple. She struggles through them just like most of us do, and in turn is able to relate to exactly how we all experience fear, doubt, and any other number of emotions that can be both destructive and extremely valuable. I value this insight as a coach, and I look forward to talking with Hazel more in the future.
In this episode Hazel mentions The Inner Game of Tennis, a classic book about the mental side of performance. That led me to wonder what other books that Hazel might recommend, so this month we are giving our patrons Hazel's recommended reading list, as well as a bonus episode with fan favorite Steve Bechtel.
You can find Hazel online at www.hazelfindlayclimbing.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
If you've been around climbing long enough, you know someone who has or has had an eating disorder. While it's not a secret, it's certainly a topic that is generally shamed and then ignored. As a coach, friend, and partner, I wanted to know more about it, how to recognize it, and what to do when confronted with it.
Savannah Buik reached out to me a little over a year ago to tell me that she had started a blog, partly inspired by my willingness to call people out, that focused on her own struggles with eating disorders. Since then, she's had more struggles, and in this episode we talk more about those tough times.
Savannah offers us an easy way to understand these disorders, a way to recognize when it's a problem, and a way to think about it while approaching a friend in need. This is a conversation I'm so glad that I sat down for, no matter how uncomfortable the subject is.
You can find Savannah's blog, Crimpin and Biscuits, at www.savannahbuik.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The climbing community tragically lost Savannah to a climbing accident in March 2018. Her kindness, openness, and passion for helping others suffering from eating disorders made her an inspiration to many. If you'd like to support Savannah's passion, consider a donation to Project HEAL, an organization she was proudly involved with, that seeks to provide prevention, treatment, and recovery support to those suffering from eating disorders. Savannah will be greatly missed.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Here in Lander there is a very strong contingent of powerful women. I'm lucky to have become friends with many of them, and I'm extremely fortunate to be able to count Emily Tilden among those friends.
She is a no bullshit straight shooter, which I value and appreciate, and like many great athletes, she has a mental tenacity that is sometimes difficult to comprehend. I've watched her handily win the pullup comp at the Climbers Festival several times, and I've watched her cruise to an easy win, with a smile on her face, after running 20K at over 9,000 feet.
Emily likes to run long distances. In the mountains. Likes to. What? That just doesn't compute with me. She's a mom that was right back to the gym, with son Wyatt in tow, shortly after giving birth. She also has the often rare ability to vocalize why and how she is able to push through the wall that stops me at about mile #1.
Perhaps even more interesting is that when climbing, she doesn't have the same drive. It occupies a different space for her. Why is that? Why can I go a muerte on a climb, but want to call for a ride home after running a few blocks? What's the difference?
We may actually have a few answers.
Emily is a trainer here in Lander at Elemental Performance and Fitness. She's an NSCA-CPT, and if you're interested in working with her, you can reach her at emily@elementalgym.com
I promise, she won't bullshit you.
Tell your friends. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Shelma Jun is an unapologetic force to be reckoned with, and she's put more thought than most of us into this feminist movement that is rocking the climbing world. To be honest, while I've put a ton of thought into it myself, much of it was in the form of denial. When that began to change, and I opened by eyes a little, I knew I had to have a conversation with Shelma. I'm extremely happy that she was willing to sit down with me and struggle through a tough, but important conversation.
Some of you will agree. Some of you won't. That's ok. What's important is that we start the conversation, on many levels, and keep it going.
I've fucked up many times. I'll fuck up more. That's about all that I'm sure of.
That, and that I'll always make an effort to realize that I don't need to have all the answers.
You can find Shelma at www.flashfoxy.com and at www.nevernotcollective.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In today's episode I sit down with Kerry Scott, an unassuming, but very badass young lady from North Carolina. Besides coaching a youth team at Triangle Rock Club, Kerry is a crusher. And she's not ashamed to "spray" a little. And you all know that I'm definitely not afraid to spray, and I appreciate it when others buck the norm.
I've spent time in North Carolina, and I know that the south and east in particular can sometimes be a place where you're encouraged not to "spray", and I think that is often unfortunate. I agree that just puffing up to talk about yourself isn't helpful to anyone, but there is a fine line between spray and pride, and I think that Kerry did a beautiful job navigating that with the ascent of her first 14a, Proper Soul. We talk about why she put it out there, and what that's meant to her. We also talk about her support system, and how important it is to have that.
Decide for yourself what's appropriate, but don't let others tell you not to be proud of yourself.
And damn it, tell the world about it if that's what you want to do.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode Nate and I sit down with Allison Stowers, a Chattanooga climber and physical therapist. We discuss the climber injuries that Allison most often sees in her clinic... shoulders and hip region injuries. How to self diagnose, when you should see a doctor, what to do about it, and most important, how to prevent it.
You can find Allison at www.chattclimberpt.com or at www.peakfitnessandpt.com
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Fingers are pretty important to us. At some point, all of us will have a tweak, twinge, or injury, and we'll need to know how to deal with that. In this episode I sit down with Dr. Lisa Erikson, and we dive deep into the methods behind dealing with finger injuries. We talk taping, acupressure rings, voodoo floss, ultrasound, self diagnosis, and more.
You can find Lisa's products and her book Climbing Injuries Solved, at www.climbinginjuriessolved.com.
If you would like to see her or reach out to her about an injury you have, go to www.lifesportchiro.com
This week the patrons get Lisa's top tips to avoid injury. Become a patron of the podcast for as little as $1 per month at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast.
Share us on the social medias!
We don't tweet. We scream like Eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Lantien Chu is a smiling fountain of wisdom. She's also coach of the Lander Tigers high school swim team, which has won 21 consecutive state titles. Most important, she's an exceptional human.
Wait... 21 consecutive state titles? Yes, and the team does it without ever cutting a swimmer, including some who can't swim when they join the team.
That seems like a lot of pressure to endure, year after year, particularly if you're a 16 or 17 year old student. I needed to know how she coached her team, how her team responds, and if any of those lessons could be applicable to climbing.
Turns out they all are. They're also applicable to being an exceptional human.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Tension Climbing makes wood climbing holds. Why wood? That's exactly what I wanted to know. I've long known that I'm a fan of climbing on wood, and I have my reasons, but I've never put even remotely close to as much thought into it as the guys at Tension have.
I sat down with Will Anglin and Ben Spannuth to discuss their products, the reason behind their shapes, what their favorites are, and more. They just released two new hangboards... The Grindstone and The Grindstone Pro. If you're in the market, you want one (or both) of these. Trust me. We go in depth on these two boards, their brilliant travel/warmup board, The Flash Board, their campus rungs, and even touch on their upcoming Tension Board. I had to stop Will from saying too much... he's just so excited.
Tension is giving you guys a discount! 15% off of any regularly priced item in their shop. Simply use the code powercompany at checkout.
You can find them at www.tensionclimbing.com.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
CLICK HERE TO SEE ANGIE'S PHOTOS FOR THIS EPISODE. Each episode has it's own Photo Gallery, thanks to Angie Payne. This is episode 3 of 3.
Pressure. No matter if it's a comp, a project outdoors, self inflicted or external, we all feel it. In these 3 episodes I sit down with good friend Angie Payne and discuss the pressure cooker situation of a World Cup comp. A few weeks ago Angie and I attended the Vail World Cup, and while I ambushed competitors with my microphone, Angie, a former competitor, captured in photos the emotions that this sort of intense pressure creates. Then we sat down and discussed it all. Her photos, the comments from competitors, and our own experience. We talk with Alex Puccio, Shauna Coxsey, Janja Garnbret, Jan Hojer, and more, and not only can you hear their take on it, but you can SEE their emotion in the photos for each episode.
You can find more of Angie's photos at www.angiepayne.com
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
CLICK HERE TO SEE ANGIE'S PHOTOS FOR THIS EPISODE. Each episode has it's own Photo Gallery, thanks to Angie Payne. This is episode 2 of 3.
Pressure. No matter if it's a comp, a project outdoors, self inflicted or external, we all feel it. In these 3 episodes I sit down with good friend Angie Payne and discuss the pressure cooker situation of a World Cup comp. A few weeks ago Angie and I attended the Vail World Cup, and while I ambushed competitors with my microphone, Angie, a former competitor, captured in photos the emotions that this sort of intense pressure creates. Then we sat down and discussed it all. Her photos, the comments from competitors, and our own experience. We talk with Alex Puccio, Shauna Coxsey, Janja Garnbret, Jan Hojer, and more, and not only can you hear their take on it, but you can SEE their emotion in the photos for each episode.
You can find more of Angie's photos at www.angiepayne.com
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
CLICK HERE TO SEE ANGIE'S PHOTOS FOR THIS EPISODE. Each episode has it's own Photo Gallery, thanks to Angie Payne. This is episode 1 of 3.
Pressure. No matter if it's a comp, a project outdoors, self inflicted or external, we all feel it. In these 3 episodes I sit down with good friend Angie Payne and discuss the pressure cooker situation of a World Cup comp. A few weeks ago Angie and I attended the Vail World Cup, and while I ambushed competitors with my microphone, Angie, a former competitor, captured in photos the emotions that this sort of intense pressure creates. Then we sat down and discussed it all. Her photos, the comments from competitors, and our own experience. We talk with Alex Puccio, Shauna Coxsey, Janja Garnbret, Jan Hojer, and more, and not only can you hear their take on it, but you can SEE their emotion in the photos for each episode.
You can find more of Angie's photos at www.angiepayne.com
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
We all like to call climbing an art form, but very few of us take it to the high degree that Jason Kehl does. From his haircut to his hold lines, his videos to his gym designs, Jason is anything but conventional, and that's exactly why he's so compelling. I needed to know what fueled his creativity, wanted to dig into his process, and secretly just had to see his home wall. He's been incredibly successful at rolling all of his interests into one brand... something I've tried hard to emulate, and I appreciate how through it all he's kept true to himself, his vision, and his integrity. That's not an easy task.
Find Jason online at www.cryptochild.com
Share us on your social medias! We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
The gang's all here, again! Our 2nd OFFICIAL full team meeting. Episode 33, Our Top 2 Sources of Information, was the first. If you haven't listened to that one... GO DO IT.
In this episode, Paul, Blake, Nate and I discuss the top 2 ways we break through plateaus. Whether it's mental or physical, unless you're a mutant, you've gotten stuck. That upward trajectory has slowed to a grinding halt, and you don't know what to do. Well, we have some advice.
BIG NEWS! The Patron only podcast, "We Scream Like Eagles" is now alive! For as little as $1 per month, you can get an extra episode or two every 4 weeks. We like to talk. You like to listen. It's a match made in podcast heaven. Find out more at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
You can train with any of us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com
Share us with your friends, your enemies, your mom, your dad, and your grandparents. And your social medias.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Jonah Durham has been very aptly described as "the sweetest kid ever". You could also call him a crusher. Either way, nobody that has spent time with Jonah will argue.
During my recent 9 month roadtrip I ran into Jonah in several climbing areas. We recorded a conversation while in Hueco Tanks this winter after I noticed an interesting contrast of sorts in Jonah's climbing. A few weeks ago in Lander, Jonah sat down with me again for an update on how his own, much longer trip is going, and to discuss exactly what it is that makes him a Not So Average Joe.
The music you hear in this episode is from the album "The World Is Ours" by our friend Ill Poetic. "The World Is Ours" is celebrating it's 10 year anniversary this week. You can hear it and more of Ill Poetic's newer releases at www.illpoetic.com
We recently released the first episode of the brand new "We Scream Like Eagles" podcast that is available to all of our patrons. You can become a patron and help support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
Share us on your social media, and tell all of your friends.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
If there is a polar opposite of "nutritionist", I'm it. I blank out immediately when talking the details of nutrition. Not so with our guest today, Neely Quinn. Neely is a nutritionist, climber, and host of the TrainingBeta podcast. I've known Neely for some time, but had never talked nutrition with her. She spoke at the recent ClimbStrong Coaching Conference, and I appreciated her simple take on how we should all be eating. I know some of you are like me, and this conversation may prove a little simpler to digest. Pun intended.
You can find more about Neely at www.trainingbeta.com
Share us on your social medias! Rate and Review in your iTunes!
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Another example of the extras that we'll be giving to the patrons! Nate and I noticed a trending topic online that was causing waves. Jon Glassberg recently wrote a blog for La Sportiva titled "How To Climb V15". He begins the article with this statement:
"My hypothesis: Any climber with an athletic disposition, dedication, time, appropriate training and proper diet can climb V10. Climbing double digits is an attainable goal for any serious climber. You just have to want it badly enough and put in the training hours to get there."
We agree. Here's why...
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
BONUS EPISODE! We're giving this one to you free as an example of what you could get as a patron of the podcast. In a month or so we'll be creating 1 or 2 "patron only" episodes as a bonus for our patrons. If you were thinking about becoming a patron, now is the time!
Special thanks to our Facebook Community Group for the great questions!
You can find Steve at www.climbstrong.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Honorary Cohost Steve Bechtel has a new book out. Logical Progression: Using Non Linear Periodization for Year Round Climbing Performance. If you write your own training plans, and still have a hard time sticking to your plan, this is the book for you. Steve outlines a deceptively simple way of organizing your training that fits nicely into real lives.... something most of us desperately need.
You can buy the book at http://amzn.to/2q1aync NOTE: This link gives us a tiny kickback from Amazon... but doesn't increase your cost at all.
You can find Steve at www.climbstrong.com
You can work with Steve, myself, and several others at the Midwest Training for Climbing Conference this August! www.midwesttcc.com
Share us on your social medias!
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Let's face it, there are some really bad ideas out there. Myths that people cling to. New methods of "training" that just aren't thought through. Trends that are fun to jump into, but really aren't helping you.
For this episode Nate and I sat down in the Red River Gorge last fall and discussed a few of these trends, particularly the ones we like the least.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
For this episode we sat down in the Red River Gorge with coach and trainer Dan Mirsky to talk about the redpoint process, but the conversation went elsewhere, and we uncovered something interesting. What resulted is a conversation that essentially boils down to: Do what you're motivated and inspired to do, even if it doesn't make sense.
You can find and work with Dan at The Front Training Room in Salt Lake City, or on the social medias at @danmirsky.
You guys are killin the game with the iTunes reviews... keep em coming! We're looking for 100 total in 2017!
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Today we're releasing our new Proven Plans... an option that lands between our simple eBooks and our completely customized plans. These Proven Plans allow you to work with us in our mobile app, and they allow us to give you customizations and drills that aren't available in our eBooks. The eBooks are extremely popular for good reason, but many of us need a more personal interaction and something a little more customized. The Proven Plans answer that question.
Our coach Blake Cash does most of the work with clients in the Proven Plan system. Here, we discuss the plans, how they came about, where their value lies, and what we've learned from them.
Learn more about our Proven Plan options HERE.
Rate and review us on your iTunes! On your phone? Do it like this:
- Open your Podcast App
- Search for Power Company Podcast
- Click the Power Company Logo
- Click the Reviews Tab
- At the bottom of your screen, click "Write A Review".
- Tell us how cool we are, or how bad we annoy you.
Share us all over your social medias!
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Tanner Wilson is a 22 year old climber from the middle of Ohio who just went on his first extended road trip of over 5 weeks. Originally he had planned on one big goal, but just before the trip he made a mature decision and changed his mind about what he wanted to accomplish. Because of the new goals, Tanner learned several important lessons... ones that take most of us many trips and seasons to absorb.
As always, thanks for listening. We don't tweet, we scream like eagles.
Music from this episode comes from the album Catch As Catch Can by our friends Glue. You can find the album at https://adeem.bandcamp.com/album/glue-catch-as-catch-can
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Our very first live in front of an audience, live streaming on facebook recording! With the number of things that could have gone wrong, this went REALLY well. We talk with Dave Chancellor of the famous So iLL brothers, and Yusuf Daneshyar, co owner of the Climb So iLL gym in St. Louis about how we all define success and the different paths we took to get there.
Thanks to Climb So iLL for having us out and making us feel like family, and thanks to the whole St. Louis community who welcomes us every time with open arms and delicious tacos. We'll be back.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Why only 2? Because there are 4 of us in this episode! The whole team sits down for our first Board Meeting together, and discusses the top 2 places where we each get our information. The internets are full of bullshit information, so it's hard to know when what you're reading has any sort of integrity or validity. We break it down the way we do, with lots of laughs in between, and let you know where we look to first for the information we believe in.
Get ready to subscribe to new podcasts, read new blogs, and search for people you might not have heard of before.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Justen doesn't need an introduction, but if you've been hiding under a rock, he's an accomplished climber and coach who has worked with a veritable who's who of American climbing elite. Justen is known for his ability to get into a climbers head and coax more out of them. I wanted to give you something different, so we don't necessarily dig into those things that you might hear about in his conversations with other climbing podcasts, like Chalk Talk (which you should listen to if you haven't.). Instead, we dig into ego (the good and the bad), partnerships and how they can be affected by ego, and how awareness can offset the negatives.
You can find Justen at www.climbingsensei.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
It's here. The one you've been waiting for. The Moon Board Episode. And that's not all. We recorded the conversation, sent it to Ben Moon, and then Skyped him in to get his opinions. Legend.
The facts, the myths, what you're doing right, and where you're going wrong.
Is the Moon Board the best training tool out there? Listen and decide for yourselves. Then stop clogging my instagram feed, and get off my lawn ya damn kids!
You can find Ben, The Moon Board, and Moonclimbing at www.moonclimbing.com.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
JStar is one of the best sport climbers in the world, so it took a ton of courage for him to completely overhaul a training routine that took him to 14d (9a), but he did it anyway. We talk about the how and the why, what he learned from it, and where he's going from here.
You can find Jonathan at http://www.jstarinorbit.com, where he keeps what is likely the best blog in all of climbing. Definitely go check out his recent posts on Pachamama, a 15a that after 8 weeks of effort, he had to walk away from.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Skin Care. You're probably not doing it right. Even if you are, there is much to learn from this podversation with Justin and Andi Brown from Rhino Skin Solutions. We talk skin types, how to use each of their individual products (and how not to), and how and why they work.
These products have been a game changer for me, and I believe that they can be for you as well. Rhino is giving our listeners a 15% off discount (expires March 31) on their products. Just use the code PowerCompany at checkout. All one word, capital P and capital C.
Rhino also asked us to create a Power Company Performance Pack, which we were happy to do. Nate and I have different types of skin, so we created a sampler pack of sorts that will allow you to find out which products work best for you and your skin type. We get a small kickback when you buy the Performance Pack, so if you want to help support the podcast, this is a good way to do it! You can find the Power Company Performance Pack HERE.
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
This an extremely rare "catch and release" episode. Nate and I were in Austin for a workshop at Crux Climbing Center, and I saw the news that Cody Roth had completed the FA of "Me I Eat Dust", which at 14+ is the hardest sport climb in Texas. However, it was his comments about the idea that while he isn't in the shape he was in his 20's, he's climbing better, that got me interested. I hit Cody up on the Facebooks, and a couple of hours later we had this recording. Brilliant, this community is.
In other news, we reached the $100 per month mark, thanks to our amazing Patrons! You guys are the best! All of you can thank them for the fact that starting now, you get 3 episodes per month. I'm glad we got there because I've got TONS of these podversations to put out into the intrawebs.
You've all been asking about Devils Advocate #1... the Moon Board episode. It's coming. We've got some surprises in store, so we're taking our time. It'll be worth the wait.
Ok. I'll be talking to you guys again very soon. Why? 3 episodes this month, that's why. BOOM.
We don't tweet. We scream like Eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
I know, I know. You're getting antsy. Me too. Thing is, I've been bouldering. A lot. And honestly, I'm still on schedule, so there. Unless you guys push us to our $100 per month goal at our Patreon page, and then you'll get 3 each month, which means more work for me, and more utter happiness for you.
But hold off on your dismay... today we're talking to our Strength and Conditioning Coach, Paul Corsaro, about a topic that is extremely important to all of us.... Why Form Matters. Whether it be strength training, climbing, or just sitting at a desk chair. Regardless of what you're doing, form matters.
Paul is one of the best coaches I've ever had the pleasure to work with, and we're fortunate to have him on the team. You can check out more of what Paul does at www.cruxconditioning.com.
Check out the ebook Paul coauthored for us, Kettlebells for Climbers
Soon you'll be able to work with Paul through our app for Strength and Conditioning Plans. You'll hear more about that soon!
Share us on your social medias... we don't tweet, we scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Meghan Baker is a recently married 43 year old mom (to a teenager), who works 50 hours a week, is a brilliant actress in local theater groups, volunteers her time to both The Beta Fund and The HERA Foundation, and still makes time to train for climbing. We talk through why she sought out coaching, the challenges and benefits of her lifestyle, and what we've focused on for the first year of her training. You think you are tight on time? You're full of shit.
Let us know what you think of the new format, which you'll be hearing about 6 or 8 times a year, on the social medias, or by leaving a review on iTunes.
As always, thanks for listening. We don't tweet, we scream like eagles.
You can visit the Hera Foundation at www.herafoundation.org.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In our first episode of 2017, we talk with climber Craig Demartino, who also happens to be an amputee. You'd never know it by talking to him or climbing with him, unless he pulls up his pants leg. Despite the odds, he's become a better rock climber after deciding to amputate his leg. That's correct... he DECIDED to amputate. A tough decision that he's very nonchalant about.
You can learn more about Craig's accident by listening to Episode 11 of The Enormocast.
You can reach Craig at www.craigdemartino.com
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
This is our final episode of 2016! It's been an amazing year, and 2017 will only be better. In this Board Meeting, Nate and I discuss strategies and tactics for redpointing. Some you may know, many you may not. Most you've probably forgotten or ignored when you needed them.
I know I've said it before, but I'll say it again. THANK YOU. Thanks to our patrons, our clients, our listeners, the people at the crag who say hello and want to chat about training, and even a big thanks to the naysayers. It's been said that we're killin' the game. I choose to believe that we're giving it life.
Oh, and special thanks to Waylon Jennings for his help with this episode. :)
We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
This isn't about training. It's bigger than that. It's about community.
Miguel's Pizza. It's been called the "Camp 4 of the East", but that title isn't big enough. More than what you see on the surface... the cheap camping, amazing pizza, great place to meet partners and sneak beers in brown paper bags, an undeniable climbing institution... Miguel's is a community. It's an idea. An inspiration. It's our Mecca, and it's a place that shaped not only my life, but the lives of countless people who've come of age sleeping (or trying to sleep) in the now famous "climber's only" campground.
With the help of his son, Dario, who you'll also hear from in this podversation, I sat down with Miguel in his gear shop during normal business hours at the end of a busy season. Sure, we talk about how it started and where it's going, but more important, we dig into what makes Miguel, the human, tick. He's a complex character, but we learn how a box of crayons led to the ability to communicate with an unknown world. We find out how a simple sketch provided a whole community of fringe dwellers a place to be themselves.
That's all I'm going to say. This is one you have to listen to. Happy Holidays from the whole crew... Kris, Nate, Blake, and Paul.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Honorary Co-Host Steve Bechtel is back, this time talking about his concept of Integrated Strength Training. What is that, you ask? Well, lucky for you, we discuss it at length. So listen. Then apply. Then get stronger. It's that simple, right?
It's almost our birthday, which means it's almost Christmas, which means we should exchange gifts! You give us a rating and review on iTunes, and I'll give you a bonus bonus episode. Deal? Ok, Deal!
As always, you can find Steve at www.climbstrong.com
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Another week, another episode. You guys have 2 more left before we go back to our 1 or 2 per month regularly scheduled program, and I get to relax a little! Or maybe we'll make it an even 24 episodes for 2016. I might... MIGHT... have a special bonus bonus episode for Christmas. If you're good kids. We'll see. In this episode, Nate and I sit down to talk about the top 3 ways to balance your climbing with your real life. Job, family, friends, hobbies, etc. Trying to balance that with climbing, training for climbing, talking about climbing, thinking about climbing, and listening to podcasts about climbing is TOUGH WORK. We've got some answers.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
LEGEND! Not much more needs to be said about this weeks guest, Stevie Haston, but I'll say a few more things anyway. How does "flashed 14a trad" grab you? Or "14d in his mid fifties"? I figured that would be enough to get your attention. Simply put, Stevie Haston is a machine. A simple, hard working, sensible machine.
I've admired the Common Sense approach that Stevie brings to his training for some time, and am priveleged to have been able to sit down with him at The Salt Palace in the middle of a busy Outdoor Retailer. He's a no nonsense guy who is clear headed and appreciative about the life that he leads. A simple one. Imagine that.
You can learn more about Stevie's approach to training directly from him at www.steviehaston.blogspot.com. Seriously, give it a read... it's one of the most entertaining blogs around.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
So many Bonus Episodes!!! In this one, Nate and I sit down to discuss the Top 3 Things We've Changed Our Minds About. Fact is, if you still believe all of the same things you believed last year, then you're probably fucking up. Growth comes at the expense of shedding old ideas, and embracing new ones. Not all old ideas are bad, and not all new ideas are good. You've got to weed them out, and of course, sometimes you're just plain wrong.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode I have a really great conversation with V11 boulderer, mom, and Physical Therapist Carrie Cooper. She's set big goals for her sport climbing... but 5.11 is still difficult for her. Not physically, but it's hard nonetheless. We walk through her process, how she deals with the ego, and talk about what she's learning. Carrie takes a really smart approach to her fears... one that we can all learn from.
As a special addition to this episode, I also talk with Carrie's coach, Dan Mirsky, about the his perspective on Carrie's situation and progress.
You can reach Carrie at www.forefrontslc.com .
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In Episode 17 I sit down with mental training guru Arno Ilgner of The Warriors Way. Most of us recognize The Warriors Way as a way to get over the fear of falling, but it's so much more. Athletes of all levels can benefit hugely from what Arno and I discuss during this podversation... the differences between being motivated by goals and being motivated by process. We go into depth with his process, and talk a little about work he's done recently with pro climber Heather Weidner during her campaign to send Simply Read (13d). I have a feeling you're going to walk away from this one wanting more, and I plan on delivering just that.
You can find Arno at www.warriorsway.com
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
For our first bonus episode, we sit down for a much needed podversation to remind us that climbing and training should be fun. Stoke is high with Dru Mack, and even though he comes about it naturally, we dig into how he brings that good energy, how he chooses partners that aren't energy suckers, and what being a good partner means.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode of the Board Meetings, Nate and I have a late night discussion about the top 3 ways we've invested in ourselves. That could be monetarily, emotionally, with time.... however, as long as it's an investment into bettering ourselves. A few surprising answers here!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode I sit down with strength coach, climber, and multisport athlete Charlie Manganiello, from ClimbStrong, to find out how we can all perform in multiple sports. Charlie takes a common sense, no bullshit approach to his training and performance, and even though I've chosen to dedicate my energy completely to climbing, I appreciate that candor.
We can't all climb all the time, and some of us choose not to, even if we could, so we can all learn a little about planning and expectations from this conversation with Charlie. Even if you're only switching from sport climbing to bouldering, like I do, there is a different approach required, and Charlie's philosophies are applicable.If you haven't yet, we would love a review and rating in iTunes. If we get a handful more, we've got 4 bonus episodes coming in the next 2 months... that means a new episode a week for the next bit!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
As we've taken our Boulder Better workshops to gyms across the country, we've been able to watch and work with climbers of all shapes, sizes, abilities, and attitudes. We've seen lots of cool, positive things happen, but we've also seen lots of mistakes being made. In this episode, Nate and I sit down after drinking a pot of coffee and a bottle of wine, and discuss each other's list of Top 3 Mistakes We See Being Made. And yes, we now know that the Platypus is not the only venomous mammal.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In episode 12 we sit down for a ridiculously fun conversation with coaches and elite boulderers Will Anglin and Rowland Chen. We dig into their concept P.O.E., which is something I've worked with since forever, but never had a cool name for. Taking this conversation to heart could potentially change your climbing, and may very well be the key to taking it to the next level.
You can find Will at www.willanglin.squarespace.com You can find Tension Climbing at www.tensionclimbing.comLadies, Rowland is single and awaiting your messages on his FB profile.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
It's finally here. For quite some time I've toyed with the idea of "in between" episodes. I can get the great podversations that you've come to expect out about once per month. More than that and I lose my mind. So while on our recent workshop tour, Nate and I sat down and figured out a rough format for a new concept. The Board Meetings were born.
We've recorded several episodes already, and the one that's about to invade your earhole is our very first. It's a little rough around the edges, and a little clumsy at times, but as we recorded more episodes, they got better and better. You just wait.Here's the basic format....
We pick a topic, and we each make a top 3 list for that topic. Neither of us know what the other will say, and we just go in. The intro theme music plays, we start talking, and then it just rolls. Simple. Fun.
In this episode we talk about the top 3 changes we've made to our own climbing that have resulted in progress. If you haven't made these changes to your climbing yet, maybe it's the plateau buster you've been waiting for.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
You already know the name. You've read his books. He's basically the first name in training for climbing in America. Eric Hörst. My initial foray into training led me directly to his early books, and I've learned more about the science of training and how to apply it to climbing from Eric than from anyone else.
This podversation is about a new chapter in the updated, 3rd Edition of Eric's "Training For Climbing". If you have the 2nd Edition, you only have half the story. This thing is packed full of new, good info, and in my opinion, is Eric's best book.I don't want to give away too much here, because, well, I want you to listen to the Podcast! So go do it!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode I sit down with professional climber, routesetter, and youth coach, Jon Cardwell, and talk about the challenges inherent to long distance projecting. Jon recently completed his long term project, Biographie (5.15a), in Ceuse, over 5,000 miles from his home. And you thought 150 miles was too far...
We talk about the mental and emotional toll, as well as how he structured his physical training with such a big, overseas objective in mind. We go deep into the emotions of dealing with failure, and how it affects your mindset when you can't try your project every day.Check out www.powercompanyclimbing.com for all of your training needs!
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode we talk with honorary co-host Steve Bechtel and his co-author Charlie Manganiello about their new resource "The Climb Strong Deadlifting Manual". They tell us why deadlifting is the number one bang for your buck exercise for strength training for climbers, and give some background on the how, why, and when. You can find out more about Steve and Charlie at climbstrong.com, or by visiting them at Steve's gym in Lander, Wyoming, Elemental Climbing and Fitness. You can purchase the book HERE.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this, Episode 6, we sit down with listener favorite Steve Bechtel at his gym in Lander, Wyoming, and talk about the question everyone is asking... "will running help my climbing?"
We delve into running as both a weight loss tool and as aerobic training for climbing, whether or not you should be running, and if Crossfit is even worth it.
You can find Steve at www.climbstrong.com.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode I sit down with Alli Rainey, a Tensleep, Wyoming based climbing coach and trainer, writer, and yoga instructor. Alli climbed up to 5.14 in her signature, vertical, technical style, and then decided to learn how to climb steeper, more gymnastic routes... and had to change her entire approach to training and climbing, not to mention her body type, to do so. You can find Alli at www.allirainey.com. She works constantly in the Tensleep, Wyoming area, developing and advocating for climbing. You can find out how to help at www.bighornclimbers.org.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode I sit down for a podversation with strength coach Paul Corsaro about our new Ebook training plan, Kettlebells for Climbers. We discuss why we like kettlebells as a strength training tool for climbers, as well as their limitations. You can find the training plan HERE. You can find Paul's blog HERE.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
Very excited to bring this talk to you! In this episode I sit down with my good friend Rannveig Aamodt, a Norwegian climber and model, and talk about her impressive road to recovery after a terrible accident. In 2012 she took a 50 foot groundfall in Turkey, with only herself to blame. We go deep into how that affected her mentality and her psyche to return to climbing, or physical activity in general. Rannveig does an amazing job of putting into words the process and methods that she used to get back on lead, and now she's back to climbing even harder than she did before the accident. So many people will find not only inspiration, but new methods to use in their struggles with fear, be it fear of falling, of failure, of the unknown, or whatever.
Find Rannveig online: Her Site. Instagram. Facebook. The story we reference in the talk Gallery of rehab photos from Nathan Welton And this is the single image that I find so compelling, that says so much about Rannveig and her spirit.The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective.
You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month.
Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
