The Enormocast: a climbing podcast

On Episode 265 of the Enormocast, I connect with Alita Contreras – a Venezuelan/Colombian climber beaming in from…Georgia. Alita was born in Venezuela to a Colombian father who taught his child to love the traditions and legends of Colombia. At University while studying languages, Alita found climbing, and soon, she was pining to leave her …

Continue reading "Enormocast 265: Alita Contreras – The Language of Climbing"

On Episode 263 of the Enormocast, I sit down for a long overdue conversation with one of the greatest alpinists of all time, Steve House. Steve house spent 20 years riding the cutting edge of alpinism. His ascents of K7, The Rupal Face, and the Slovak Direct, among many more, represented a sea change in …

Continue reading "Enormocast 263: Steve House – The Art of Alpinism"

On Episode 262 of the Enormocast, I connect across continents and oceans to Switzerland and Caroline George. Caroline is one of the most accomplished climbers you’ve never heard of, an early female IFMGA guide, a mom, and a Swiss Ms. She holds US, French, and Swiss passports which open the world for climbing and professional …

Continue reading "Enormocast 262: Caroline George – Belonging"

On Episode 261 of the Enormocast, I connect with highball boulderer, Timmy Kang, to reflect on life, his youth, and the completion a major project. In December 2022, Timmy did 5 major Highballs in Bishop in a day, including the feared and revered Too Big to Flail. The forthcoming film, Focus, was made by Timmy …

Continue reading "Enormocast 261: Timmy Kang – A Different Soul"

On Episode 260 of the Enormocast, I connect across oceans and continents with Kenyan climber and guide, Peter Naituli (AKA Peter Muambi Loinua ‘Naitulu’ M’tulatia). Peter is a home grown Kenyan climber and guide who is spearheading development of styles, routes, and crags in Northern Kenya. In addition, Peter has a guiding service for rock …

Continue reading "Emormocast 260: Peter Naituli – Sacred Mountains"

On Episode 259, I sit down in Ouray, Colorado with one of the most ebullient guests I’ve ever had on the Enormocast, Lindsey Hamm. Yes, I said “ebullient”. Lindsey is a climber and guide originally from a hard-partying and wild upbringing in East Texas. A brief but formative sojourn in the music biz chased Lindsey …

Continue reading "Episode 259: Lindsey Hamm – Pulling the Ripcord"

On Episode 258 of the Enormocast, we present the 6th annual TAPS episode where we play Taps on the sundown of good and bad trends in climbing. The royal we are joined by Andrew Bisharat of The Runout Podcast and Evening Sends, former guest and listener-mail panelist, Mary Harlan, and last year’s TAPS newbie, Any …

Continue reading "Enormocast 258: Taps 2023 – The End of the Quietude Edition"

On Episode 257 of the Enormocast, I am joined in-person by climber, gym-owner, and newly minted television personality, Chris Sharma. Chris is one of the most well-known climbers in the world, and his legacy of ground-breaking sport climbing remains unmatched. Chris was of the earliest crop of child-phenoms to hit the competition scene. Along with …

Continue reading "Enormocast 257: Chris Sharma – The Thunder and the Sunshine"

On episode 256, climber, entrepreneur, and Florida man, Matt Segal, joins the Enormocast. Matt was born and raised in Florida, and this podcaster contends that he is the baddest climber to come out of that flat and swampy State (Matt demurs this accolade, BTW). Though he started as a proto gym-kid, and had a short …

Continue reading "Enormocast 256: Matt Segal – Florida Man Goes Climbing"

On Episode 255 of the Enormocast, I connect with Dani Dobrot and Prerna Dangi. Dani is the Associate Director of the Global Climbing Initiative and Prerna is an Indian climber and guide for Climb Like a Woman. I catch up with both woman to talk about the Global Climbing Initiative, and its efforts to assist …

Continue reading "Enormocast 255: Dani Dobrot and Prerna Dangi and the Birth of Global Climbing"

On Episode 254 of the Enormocast, I connect with former gymnast, now climber and nutritionist, Amity Warme. Though Amity grew up just down the road from the climbing mecca of Boulder, Colorado and under the shadow of the Diamond and Rocky Mountain National Park, she was too preoccupied as a child and teen gymnast to …

Continue reading "Enormocast 254: Amity Warme – Putting the Hammer Down"

On Episode 253 of the Enormocast, climber and avid first-ascensionist, Nik Berry, joins the Enormocast. Nik was a typical suburban Salt Lake kid until he found and became obsessed with climbing. His go-for-it attitude brought him early success as well as some close calls. But Nik reigned in the risk enough to become one of …

Continue reading "Enormocast 253: Nik Berry – In the Arena"

On Episode 252 of the Enormocast, I connect with climber and author, Fallon Rowe. Fallon grew up in Idaho as a scrappy adventurer amongst beauty queens, and like many before her, she was gifted climbing by the YMCA. Her outdoor climbing dreams were solidified while attending College in Logan, Ut – striking distance of the …

Continue reading "Enormocast 252: Fallon Rowe – What Would Marcus do?"

On Episode 251 of the Enormocast, I talk with legendary British climber, Steve McClure. Steve was introduced to climbing as a youth by his folks, and by his teens, he possessed a deep well of trad skills. The two successive serious accidents sent him spinning away from climbing for a time, but the advent of …

Continue reading "Enormocast 251: Steve McClure – Immersion"

On this in-between ep of the Enormocast, I reconnect with Bron Hodgins and Jacob Cook to get a great trip report on their summer 2022 climbing and paddling expedition to Greenland. On Bron’s last Enormocast from August 2022, she was literally days away from departure when we recorded. The expedition was 40 days give or …

Continue reading "Enormocast Tweener: Bronwyn Hodgins and Jacob Cook’s Greenland Odyssey"

On Episode 250 of the Enormocast, I connect with fellow climbing podcaster, Ryan Devlin. Among many far greater and meaningful accomplishments, Ryan created and runs The Struggle Climbing Podcast. As the name implies, Ryan talks with prominent climbers about not so much their moments of triumph as their moments of struggle. He hopes that we …

Continue reading "Enormocast 250: Ryan Devlin – The Struggle is Real(ly) a Climbing Podcast"

On Episode 249 of the Enormocast, I connect to Europe to talk with Belgian climber, Sébastien Berthe. After making a personal choice reduce his carbon footprint by avoiding air travel, Seb made a bold and admittedly somewhat quixotic journey to climb the Dawn wall last fall/winter via sailboat. Though he and Siebe Vanhee did not …

Continue reading "Enormocast 249: Seb Berthe- Sailing the Seas of Granite"

On episode 248 of the Enormocast, I post up in HER van to talk to Kaya Lindsay: offwidth aficionado, film-maker, van-lifer (former), and more. I know it seems like Sprinters have been jamming up the parking since the beginning of time, but Kaya was a first-wave modern #vanlife climber. Striking out from Santa Cruz, CA …

Continue reading "Enormocast 248: Kaya Lindsay – Lock the Doors and Drive Away"

On Episode 247 of the Enormocast, I sit down with climber, resoler, and professional bull rider, Dustin Bowen. Dustin grew up in Pennsylvania, but was drawn to Western style rodeo from an early age. When his mom’s plan to let him get it out of his system in rodeo school failed, Dustin went on to …

Continue reading "Enormocast 247: Dustin Bowen – From Rocks to Rodeos"

On Episode 246 of the Enormocast, I connect for the second time on the show with Canadian climber, Bronwyn Hodgins. Bron appeared on the show in 2019 with her husband, Jacob Cook, and since that time, Bron’s climbing has evolved and grown exponentially. She’s freed more big walls, climbed hard sport, .13d cracks, and expeditioned …

Continue reading "Enormocast 246: Bronwyn Hodgins – Make a Plan, Stick to the Plan"

On Episode 245, James Lucas and I reconvene to catch up on his topsy-turvy life. This installment, his 4th, finds James on the upswing from a low point after losing his job, his girlfriend, his stoke, and purpose. James talks about losing himself in dance, home remedies for panic attacks, therapy, and general depression. But …

Continue reading "Enormocast 245: James Lucas – Peaches en Ragalia"

On Episode 244, we herald the return of British trad ace, Hazel Findlay. Since her last appearance in 2013, a lot has happened to both the Royal We and Hazel Findlay. We start the conversation with dissecting her own podcast, The Curious Climber. Then we move to talking about her mental training and coaching. Hazel …

Continue reading "Enormocast 244: Hazel Findlay – A Work in Progress"

On Episode 243 of the Enormocast, I sit down with guide and climber, Miranda Oakley. Miranda busted out of Maryland just after college and never looked back. A job washing dishes in Tuolumne made her climbing dreams come true, but soon she was guiding hikes then climbs in Yosemite. Meanwhile, she was building skills for …

Continue reading "Enormocast 243: Miranda Oakley – O, Brave New World"

Scott Franklin returns on this in-between-eps ep to spray down on the amazing folks he climbed with over the years, including his wife Gea Franklin (Phipps) and Lynn Hill. Also, I ask him about the 1988 Snowbird, UT International Climbing Comp and soloing Survival of the Fittest (5.13).

On episode 242 of the Enormocast, I run with one of the big dogs of the 80s, Scott Franklin. Scott was a prodigy shaking up the Gunks and the old ways in the early 80s. He then dropped the taboos against hang-dogging, bolting, top down inspection, and helped usher in the sport climbing revolution we …

Continue reading "Enormocast 242: Scott Franklin – Mullets and Mavericks"

On Episode 241, I connect with climber and author, Jonathan Howland. Jonathan started climbing in the early 70s and spent much of that decade obsessed with the pursuit. Then a 20 year hiatus ensued, but Jonathan returned to the climbing-fold with a similar passion but a new outlook. Then tragedy hit, and as can often …

Continue reading "Enormocast 241: Jonathan Howland – The Weight"

On Episode 240 of the Enormocast, I am joined by Maiza Lima. Maiza resides, more or less, in Great Falls, Montana, but her journey to that town has been a long and arduous one. Maiza was born and grew up in a remote village in Brazil, and in her teens, joined her mother to cross …

Continue reading "Enormocast 240: Maiza Lima – The Long Way Home"

On Episode 239 of the Enormocast, I have the privilege to sit down with Gold Medalist, Janja Garnbret. A Slovenian climbing hero, Janja, of course, took Gold at the inaugural climbing Olympics, but before that she was already the winningest climbing athlete of all time. As she beams into the interview from Oliana, Catalunya, a …

Continue reading "Enormocast 239: Janja Garnbret – Her Hardest Hue to Hold"

On episode 238 of the Enormocast, Tommy Caldwell shows up for his sophomore appearance on the podcast. A lot has gone down since his first show in 2016. Both Tommy and the Royal We had a child – his second. He wrote a New York Times best seller. He and Honnold put up a free …

Continue reading "Enormocast 238 – Tommy Caldwell: Concerned Climbing Citizen"

On Episode 237 of the Enormocast, I catch up with freshly minted trad climber, Anna Hazelnutt. Anna cut her teeth on high-ball slab boulders in So Cal, but then turned to sport climbing in Catalunya. After a great season in Ten Sleep, Wyoming, she traded fun in the sun for windy and rainy on the …

Continue reading "Enormocast 237: Anna Hazelnutt – Not Afraid to Try"

On Episode 236 of the Enormocast, I sit down next to, but for some reason not in, a hot springs pool with Malik Martin and Conrad Anker. Conrad and Malik met at Memphis Rox when Malik was working there, and the North Face had sent Conrad to check it out. Memphis Rox is a unique …

Continue reading "Enormocast 236: Malik Martin and Conrad Anker – Brothers, Friends, and Countrymen"

On Episode 235, the 2022 TAPS Edition of the Enormocast has arrived. Returning curmudgeon, Andrew Bisharat, and I rough up FNG Andy Salo on this year’s nearly 2 hour show. Lined up at the guillotine this year are the notions that selling out is a bad thing, climbers are counterculture rebels and free thinkers, the …

Continue reading "Enormocast 235: TAPS 2022 – This Podcast is For Sale Edition"

On Episode 234 of the Enormocast, I connect via lousy internet with Belgian, Siebe Vanhee. At the moment of recording, Siebe is sitting inside the famous “Caf” in Yosemite valley – the appropriate site of so much spray over the years. Siebe is in the valley with Sebastien Berthe to attempt the Dawn Wall. Siebe …

Continue reading "Enormocast 234: Siebe Vanhee – The Talisman"

On Episode 233 of the Enormocast, I sit down with musician and climber, Bradley “Chum” Carter. Chum grew up climbing in Tennessee and the greater Southeast, but did stints in the Northwest and Yosemite and Hueco and beyond. Somewhere in there, he also became an accomplished multi-instrument musician. Then came the difficult task of “balancing” …

Continue reading "Enormocast 233: Bradley “Chum” Carter – Mountains and Music"

On Episode 232 of the Enormocast, I meet up across the pond with fellow podcaster, Niall Grimes. Niall grew up during “The Troubles” in Northern Ireland and learned to climb on his local crags amid that terrible conflict. But as soon as he knew what was good for him, Niall moved the storied city of …

Continue reading "Enormocast 232: Niall Grimes – The Language of Humor"

On Episode 231 of the Enormocast, I connect to the other side of the world with Indian climber, Gowri Varanashi. Gowri learned to climb in the US but fell in love with climbing in her home country of India. Immediately, she felt the need to bring more women into the small, male-dominated climbing community in …

Continue reading "Enormocast 231: Gowri Varanashi – Bringing It All Back Home"

On Episode 230, I connect with Paul Pritchard all the way from Tasmania. Paul’s new book The Mountain Path: A Climbers Journey Through Life and Death examines his life of climbing and life-changing accident on the Totem Pole in Tasmania through the lens of his scholarship in Buddhism. Paul came of age in Wales climbing …

Continue reading "Enormocast 230: Paul Pritchard – The Tao of Paul"

On Episode 229.5 of the Enormocast, I rebroadcast an interview I did with Luke Mehall over at his podcast The Dirtbag State of Mind Podcast. In this interview, we spend time on the history of the Enormocast, its current state and its future. I get all mushy about what its meant to me and how …

Continue reading "Enormocast 229.5: REBROADCAST of Luke Mehall’s Dirtbag State of Mind Podcast with Chris Kalous."

On Episode 229 of the Enormocast, Steve Schneider joins me from his home in Oakland, California. Though Steve’s resume is longer than almost any previous guest on the show, he seems to fly in the nether regions of the global climbing consciousness. Steve became a YOSAR member and Valley denizen in the early 80s and …

Continue reading "Enormocast 229: Steve “Shipoopoi” Schneider – Blonde Ambition"

On Episode 228 of the Enormocast, I sit down with climber and guide, Aaron Livingston. A Utah native, Aaron splits his time between Ouray, Colorado and Moab, Utah while guiding for San Juan Mountain Guides. While we get to know Aaron in the first half of the interview, his purpose for coming in the show …

Continue reading "Enormocast 228: Aaron Livingston – We Shall Be Brothers"

On Episode 227 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a van (his) in Rifle with return guest Jordan Cannon. Jordan’s career continues to flourish since his last appearance on the Enormocast with Mark Hudon and his first appearance back in 2018. The main topic on the table is Jordan’s saga with freeing Golden Gate …

Continue reading "Enormocast 227: Jordan Cannon – The Full Picture"

On Episode 226 of the Enormocast, Stacy Bare (episode 103) returns to the Enormocast with an urgent message. At this moment, Afghanistan is in crisis and evacuations are underway for allies and Afghans who worked for, collaborated with, and trusted the American mission in their country. Through his Adventure Not War initiative, Stacy travelled to …

Continue reading "Enormocast 226: Stacy Bare – Resist with Joy"

On Episode 225 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a yard with goats with ice climber, Manoah Ainuu. Manoah popped up on a lot of climbers’ radars in the film Black Ice from last year’s Reel Rock, but he’s been a North Face Athlete for 3 years and getting it done in Bozeman for …

Continue reading "Enormocast 225: Manoah Ainuu – Life’s Sustenance"

On Episode 224 of the Enormocast, I connect with bouldering legend, John Sherman. “The Verm”, as he is widely known, is a seminal boulderer in America and the world. Known as much for his antics and his legendary toughness, John Sherman also likely bouldered there first as he spanned the continent looking for and developing …

Continue reading "Enormocast 224: John “The Verm” Sherman – Foot on the Gas"

On Episode 223 of the Enormocast, I sit down with legend, John Long. I first met Long, AKA Largo, some 25 years ago in West Los Angeles at a climbing gym. As I got to know him in that gym community, I quickly realized that the John Long I knew from his books like Gorilla …

Continue reading "Enormocast 223: John Long – Existential Horsepower"

On Episode 222 of the Enormocast, I connect with Harvey Merritt Wright. Harvey Wright is a climber, musician, and hair dresser from Vancouver, BC and the recent subject of a full length documentary film, Crux. Harvey also deals with drug and alcohol addiction. When Harvey first started climbing, he hit it hard and quickly achieved …

Continue reading "Enormocast 222: Harvey Wright – Heart Like an Ocean"

On Episode 221 of the Enormocast, I manage to sit down face to face and maskless with Lor Sabourin. Lor’s recent send of East Coast Fist Bump in Northern Arizona piqued my interest and a tip from Mary Eden got them in the room. Originally from Detroit, Michigan, like so many kids before, Lor started …

Continue reading "Enormocast 221: Lor Sabourin – Being Themself"

On Episode 220 of the Enormocast, I sit down across the internet with Alex Honnold. A lot has happened to Alex Honnold since we last talked in 2017. Back then, he had just free soloed El Cap, but the Oscar winning film of that ascent was still year away from blowing our minds and moistening …

Continue reading "Enormocast 220: Alex Honnold – The Same, but More So"

On Episode 219 of the Enormocast, I connect online with Genevive Walker. Genevive is living the “dream” on the road full time. In the last year, she’s taken some offers for sponsorship and is now trying to reconcile the life of a public figure and “pro” with the realities of living hand-to-mouth in a van …

Continue reading "Enormocast 219: Genevive Walker – Holding Fast to the Dream"

On this BONUS episode of the Enormocast, I rebroadcast an interview we did on Steven Dimmitt’s The Nugget Podcast where he interviews me. Steven and I decided it would be a nice addendum to the Enormcast feed. In the interview, we focus much more on my climbing than any interview I have done previously. If …

Continue reading "Enormocast 218.5: REBROADCAST Kalous Talks to Steven Dimmitt on the Nugget Podcast."

On Episode 218 of the Enormocast, I connect after some really weird internet glitching with climber and author Mark Synnott. Mark’s book The Third Pole: Mystery, Obsession, and Death on Mount Everest and its imminent release was the occasion for our talk, but the convo quickly turns to our shared past and his personal struggles …

Continue reading "Enormocast 218: Mark Synnott – 50 Shades of Adventure"

On Episode 217 of the Enormocast, I connect after some internet trouble with the indomitable Michaela Kiersch. Michaela grew up a Chicago girl – loving baseball and the White Sox- but when she found the climbing gym, her baseball goals were supplanted. The climbing community embraced Michaela at just the right time as her mother’s …

Continue reading "Enormocast 217: Michaela Kiersch – Life’s Greater Needs"

On Episode 216 for the Enormocast, I luck into an interview with the elusive Jim Reynolds. Jim popped onto most of our radars with a really fast ascent of the Nose with the late great Brad Gobright followed by some truly audacious solos in Patagonia including an onsight solo up and down of Fitzroy. Finally, …

Continue reading "Enormocast 216- Jim Reynolds Searches for the Rhythm"

On Episode 215 of the Enormocast, I connect with climber, writer, former YoSAR member, Lauren Delaunay Miller. Lauren found climbing in the waiting room of a doctor’s office, and quickly made a plan to climb El Cap in 5 years despite not having any idea what rock climbing actually entailed. She pursued her goal not …

Continue reading "Enormocast 215: Lauren Delaunay Miller – The Five Year Plan…"

On Episode 214 of the Enormocast, I beam myself to Sheffield, England, the heart of British climbing, to talk to Pete Whittaker. Pete is one half of the infamous Wide Boyz but not just an offwidth climber. His prowess on cracks of all sizes is well known and has lead to his new definitive modern …

Continue reading "Enormocast 214: Pete Whittaker – A Right Wad"

On Episode 213, I sit down through a computer screen with Chelsea Murn of Lady Beta Coaching. Chelsea’s coaching business caters exclusively to women and women’s climbing performance. Chelsea brings a deep holistic approach to her craft. On this episode, we talk about how impediments to climbing performance can be deep seeded in the emotional …

Continue reading "Enormocast 213: Chelsea Murn – Free Your Mind."

On Episode 212 of the Enormocast, brothers in spray, Andrew Bisharat and Steve Dilk return for the annual chat about the fallen trends in climbing. Despite 2020 being a hellscape, we still managed a tongue-in-cheek raucous conversation about the stuff we lost to COVID’s shut downs and economic hardship, as well as long time trends …

Continue reading "Enormocast 212: TAPS 2020 – Cursed Pestilence Edition"

On Episode 211 of the Enormocast, I connect with climber and photographer, Drew Smith. After growing up in Eastern Montana, Drew Smith set out on a life of adventure and work in his late teens. A snowboarding accident lead him to discover the relatively impact free world of climbing in his early twenties. Coupling climbing …

Continue reading "Enormocast 211: Drew Smith – Willing to Work for It."

On Episode 210 of the Enormocast, we journey into the impossibly distant past of a year ago for an interview recorded in the pre-pandemic bliss of January 2020 with climber, guidebook author, and artist, Jason Nelson. Jason hails from Maine, but is most associated with the small town with big climbing aspirations: Ouray, Colorado. As …

Continue reading "Enormocast 210: Jason Nelson – A Life’s Work."

On Episode 209, I sit down on home turf in Carbondale, Colorado with climber and engineer, Natalie Afonina. Natalie grew up in the States but with a strong connection to her parents homeland, mother Russia. Fluent in Russian and holder of dual citizenship, Natalie has used that pedigree to her advantage as she’s travelled the …

Continue reading "Episode 209: Natalie Afonina – The Innumerable Paths."

On Episode 208 of the Enormocast, I have a very enjoyable and inspiring talk with ice climber and author, Margo Talbot. Margo is Canadian and based out of Canmore, Alberta. In her memoir, All That Glitters, Margo reveals that she had a youth of drug addiction, depression, and suicidal tendencies but found climbing ice to …

Continue reading "Episode 208: Margo Talbot – Climbing Through the Pain."

On Episode 207, Tara Kerzhner joins me via the Internet tubes to discuss her life as a climber, but more importantly, her life behind the lens. Tara came up a sheltered child in Bend, Oregon, and grew into an awkward, dark-poetry-writing tween before finding her mother’s old Pentax. Quite a few cat photos later, and …

Continue reading "Episode 207: Tara Kerzhner – Emergence."

On Episode 206, we get down to climbing talk and climbing stories with Andres Marin. Andres was born and grew up in the mountains of Colombia, but immigrated to the US as a young man. Ending up in Grand Junction, Colorado, Andres was quickly drawn to the climbing opportunities in his back yard. Soon, he …

Continue reading "Episode 206: Andres Marin – El Afortunado."

On Episode 205 of the Enormocast, I get to go sideways from rock climbing to rock and roll with musician/climber, Alexis Krauss. Alexis is a Gunks climber, a guide, and also happens to be living one of my alternate dreams as half of the “noise rock” (Wikipedia) band, Sleigh Bells. During a tour in 2013, …

Continue reading "Episode 205: Alexis Krauss – There’s More Than One Way to Rock."

On Episode 204, I connect across state lines with climber, doctor, athlete, ninja, cancer survivor, and last but not least, president of the Southern Maryland Youth Foreign Film and Cuisine Club, Favia Dubyk. Favia grew up “below the Mason-Dixon line” but ended up attending Harvard and Columbia and ended up living in Cleveland and now …

Continue reading "Episode 204: Favia Dubyk – Upon the Mortal Side."

On Episode 203 of the Enormocast, I meet up with Mary Eden, AKA Tradprincess on a porch in Moab, UT. It was a pleasant morning prelude to scorcher of a day and Mary and I got a solid hour in just before she bailed to Flagstaff. Mary came from Appalachia and ended up in Moab …

Continue reading "Episode 203: Mary Catherine Eden AKA Tradprincess – Fun and Freedom."

On Episode 202 of the Enormocast, I sit down across an internet gulf with neophyte climber and veteran MMA fighter, Celine Haga. Celine hails from Norway, but is ensconced in Albuquerque, NM to train for a sport that is illegal in her home country. Her desire to fight came after failing several physical fitness tests …

Continue reading "Episode 202: Celine Haga – Fight or Flight."

On Episode 201 of the Enormocast, I sit down at the Monkey House climbing gym in Carbondale, CO with repeat guest Mary Harlan and Rock and Ice’s Francis Sanzaro to answer listener mail. Both Mary and Francis have decades of climbing experience, and Mary happens to also be an experienced guide. On this long awaited …

Continue reading "Episode 201: Listener Mail Volume 4 – The Almost No PAS Edition."

On Episode 200 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Timmy O’Neill. Timmy made a name for himself as a speed demon on the walls of Yosemite, but also as a fast-talking wise ass in such films as Urban Ape and Paralellojams. Born on the mean streets of Philly as one member of an enormous …

Continue reading "Episode 200: Timmy O’Neill – A Life of Yes."

On Episode 199 of the Enormocast, my coach, Kris Hampton, and I talk about what its been like to try and train a crusty curmudgeon like me. Since adulting hit me hard in the last couple years and Carbondale got its first real climbing gym, I came up with a plan to actually train for …

Continue reading "Episode 199: Old Dog, New Ticks with Kris Hampton"

On Episode 198 of the Enormocast, I sit down in Ouray, Colorado on a too bright Sunday morning with British alpinist, Tom Livingstone. Tom was born in the climbing desert of southern England, but now bases out of the climbing Mecca of North Wales. A traditional rock climber at first, Tom has made a name …

Continue reading "Episode 198: Tom Livingstone – Devotion’s Visage."

On Episode 197 of the Enormocast, I sit down with former champion comp climber, Katie Brown. Katie Brown inhabited a place in competition climbing in the 90s when the kids took over the sport. Her cohort, the likes of Chris Sharma, Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden, were the first wave of young competitors to put the …

Continue reading "Episode 197: Katie Brown – The Invisible Girl."

On Episode 196 of the Enormocast, I sit down with couple, Janelle and Mark Smiley. Janelle and Mark spent much of the last decade in a van pursuing the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. In addition to that hair-brained addiction to climbing and alpinism, both are crack skiers and guides, with Mark and 18 …

Continue reading "Episode 196: Janelle and Mark Smiley – The Purpose Makes Strong the Vow."

On Episode 195 of the Enormocast, I sit down in my comfortable study with British climber Tom Randall. Tom just happened to be driving by in a snowstorm and turned up on my doorstep desperate for shelter. So we made a deal: warmth and comfort for an Enormocast. Tom talks about his entry into the …

Continue reading "Episode 195: Tom Randall – Just a Pony Shuffler at Heart."

On Episode 194, I sit down in Denver, Colorado with Louisville, KY native and Red River Gorge climber, Dru Mack. Dru is a youngish climber and coach who dropped roots in the Red as a kid, and now uses the base he gained there to tick hard sport pitches and boulders worldwide. At an early …

Continue reading "Episode 194: Dru Mack – Getting Out of His Own Way."

On Episode 193, I sit down with American alpine legend, George Lowe. George grew up in Ogden, Utah, among an extended family of climbers, skiers, river runners that included his equally legendary cousin, Jeff. A self-described dork, George found a home among the small counter culture of climbing and began using his problem solving skills …

Continue reading "Episode 193: George Lowe III – A Fortunate Man."

On Episode 192 of the Enormocast, I sit down in the Access Fund offices late night with Jenny Fischer. Jenny grew up and lived in the small city of Port Huron, Michigan until she was 30. Then she blew up her rather preordained life and lit out after a dream she’d had since she was …

Continue reading "Episode 192: Jenny Fischer – Love and Logic."

On Episode 191 of the Enormocast, I sit down with climber, author, and avid urban adventurer, Dakota Walz. Dakota grew up in the Midwest, Fargo and Kansas City, but longed for adventure beyond the confines of the flat lands. First finding adventure in urban climbing and train hopping and then turning to climbing, Dakota eventually …

Continue reading "Episode 191: Dakota Walz – From Catch Outs to Runouts."

On Episode 190 of the Enormocast, I sit down with friends Andrew Bisharat and Steve Dilk take aim at foibles, dangers, and annoyances in climbing that continue to plague our sport and our minds. What’s on the block this year? Bad dog owners, simul-rappelling, snotty belay testers, speed climbing, and more. Fueled by our whiskey …

Continue reading "Episode 190: TAPS 2020 aka The Things We Wished Were Cancelled Edition."

On Episode 189, I sit down with Australian rock climber, developer, Lee Cujes, and force him to do the impossible: speak for the entire climbing community of Australia. Lee is the first Aussie ever on the Enormocast, and I can’t help but recall some of the great times I had on my seminal trip to …

Continue reading "Episode 189: Lee Cujes – Welcome to Australia, Mate."

On Episode 188 of the Enormocast, I sit down in Squamish, BC with Canadian alpinist, Jason Kruk. Jason and I have been threatening to do a show for almost 8 years now and finally got it on tape. Jason delves into his beginnings, his storied partnership with Will Stanhope, his love of alpinism, and his …

Continue reading "Episode 188: Jason Kruk – When There’s Nothing Left to Prove."

On November 27th, 2019, climber, friend, and former guest of the Enormocast, Brad Gobright fell to his death in Potrero Chico, Mexico. I had known Brad for a decade, and he had appeared on the the Enormocast in 2016. This is a repost of that interview with an added intro. The original is here. Since …

Continue reading "Special Episode: Brad Gobright Repost."

On Episode 187, I sit down with recent trad convert, Brittany Goris. We were ensconced on a very cold evening in the Mobile Studio parked in the Supercrack Parking lot in Indian Creek. Brittany started as a boulderer and sport climber but has been spending her energies recently exploring the limits of her trad climbing. …

Continue reading "Episode 187: Brittany Goris- To Dream the Impossible (Trad) Dream."

On Episode 186 of the Enormocast, I sit down with comp climber, boulderer, and sport climber, Sean Bailey. Sean’s outdoor feats include an ascent of Biographie/Realization (5.15a) in Ceuse, France and Joe Mama (5.15a) at Oliana, Spain. His comp results have put him on top of Nationals in both bouldering and lead, not to mention …

Continue reading "Episode 186: Sean Bailey – The New Old School."

On Episode 185 of the Enormocast, I am joined in Carbondale by a mythical figure named Hobo Greg. Who is Hobo Greg? I don’t know, even now. He left his home in New Jersey on a Greyhound bus four years ago and is now a climbing guide in Joshua Tree. He drinks wine by the …

Continue reading "Episode 185: Hobo Greg – Crossing the Threshold."

On Episode 184, I sit down with climber and photographer, Corey Rich. Corey came up as a dirtbag climber, but he simultaneously started a serious study of photography and how to use a camera. A fateful roadtrip put his images in front of the main climbing media outlets of the day like Climbing Magazine and …

Continue reading "Episode 184: Corey Rich – The Story is the Thing"

On Episode 183 of the Enormocast, I sit down with truly legendary alpinist, Jim Donini. Jim has been banging it out on big climbs since before most of you, dear listeners, were born. Jim cemented his reputation early on in Patagonia when it was still a truly wild frontier, but Donini went on to put …

Continue reading "Episode 183: Jim Donini – Once More Unto the Breach, Dear Friends."

On Episode 182 of the Enormocast, I sit down with young(ish) trad and sport climber, Molly Mitchell. I first hung out with Molly just two short years ago, and in the interim, she has burst onto the scene as a professional climber ticking hard trad and sport ascents with ease. Molly is not you’re typical …

Continue reading "Episode 182: Molly Mitchell – Silence the Mind, Send the Climb."

On Episode 181, I sit down with climber, industry insider, and amputee, Malcolm Daly. Malcolm is a lifer who has been steeped in climbing culture and the climbing industry since the late 60s. Among so many profound achievements, he somewhat haphazardly found himself at the forefront of US bouldering while in Fort Collins and started …

Continue reading "Episode 181: Malcolm Daly – The Limb Reaper"

On Episode 180 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Team Texas Alum and current comp climber, Claire Buhrfeind. Claire was born and raised in Plano, Texas, far from any form of rock or mountain climbing, but she found the sport anyway. Claire started climbing in the gym at age 5, and as she grew …

Continue reading "Episode 180: Claire Buhrfeind – The Tao of Claire."

On Episode 179 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Dierdre Wolownick, perhaps better known in the climbing world as Alex Honnold’s mom. Up until now, Dierdre has appeared to the climbing world as a talking head in Alex’s movies, and I believe, she’s a bit misunderstood. Dierdre has recently put her thoughts on raising …

Continue reading "Episode 179: Dierdre Wolownick – Mother of Honnolds."

On Episode 178 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Canadian rock and ice climber, Will Gadd. Will hit the early sport climbing scene in Boulder, Colorado in the 80s and has never looked back. As an early comp climber, Will had the honor of getting crushed by a young Chris Sharma. Switching his focus …

Continue reading "Episode 178: Will Gadd – Stoked on the Magic."

On Episode 177 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a parking lot with Canadian boulderer and comp-climber, Allison Vest. Though Allison grew up in the heart of the Canadian Rockies’ alpine gnar, competition and plastic were her heart’s desire. She made her mark as a youth climber, and after a wayward year in Edmonton, …

Continue reading "Episode 177: Allison Vest – Trashcans and Try-hard."

On Episode 176 of the Enormocast, I sit down in my kitchen with author and climber Jeff Smoot. Jeff had a wild climbing ride in the 80s as he shadowed two of the renegades inventing sport climbing in the USA: Todd Skinner and Alan Watts. In his book, Hangdog Days: Conflict, Change, and the Race …

Continue reading "Episode 176: Jeff Smoot – The 80s Come Alive with Hangdog Days."

On Episode 175 of the Enormocast, I sit down in the Mobile Studio parked under a rainy Moab sky with Mark Hudon and Jordan Cannon. Mark and Jordan are on a great Western road trip and prepping for Mark’s attempt on the Freerider on El Cap. But here’s the thing, Mark is 63 and Jordan …

Continue reading "Episode 175: Mark Hudon and Jordan Cannon’s Excellent Adventure."

On Epsiode 174 of the Enormocast, I sit down in the mobile studio with British/Canadian duo, Jacob Cook and Bron Hodgins. This couple found each other at a sock wrestling tourney in Leeds, England and have been inseparable adventurers ever since. Jacob and Bron have laughed they’re way through expeditions from the big walls of …

Continue reading "Episode 174: Bronwyn Hodgins and Jacob Cook – A Perfect Pairing."

One Episode 173 of the Enormocast, Craig DeMartino returns to bask in 7 years of Enormocast glory. His original appearance, where he vividly describes his 100 footer into the turf and his recovery after a leg amputation, remains one of the top moments on the Enormocast. Craig continues to hear from folks about that gripping …

Continue reading "Episode 173: Craig DeMartino – Unintended Inspiration."

On Episode 172 of the Enormocast, we continue to part 2 of a conversation with Alpinist Mark Twight. The Royal We highly recommends that one has a listen to Part 1 first, but this second half does stand on its own especially if you’re already familiar with Mark’s exploits in Chamonix and on Nanga Parbat. …

Continue reading "Episode 172: Mark Twight – Still Coming Down Part 2."

On Episode 171, I sit down in the Dissect Podcast studio with former alpinist, Mark Twight, for part 1 of our talk from February 2019. Though Mark gave up extreme alpinism around 2000, his attitude, outlook, and philosophy are still that of a climber. In this EPIC late night and whiskey-fueled interview, Mark recounts a …

Continue reading "Episode 171: Mark Twight – Still Coming Down Part 1."

On this special Episode, I whip those stallions pulling the Free Solo bandwagon and rebroadcast Alex Honnold’s interview from 2017 – just a few weeks out from his free solo of the FreeRider on El Capitan in Yosemite. Not just a cynical grab at downloads, when I re-listened this interview for myself, I was newly …

Continue reading "BandWagon Episode: REBROADCAST Alex Honnold from 2017."

On Episode 170 of the Enormocast, I practically rip Tim Emmett off the stage at the Michigan Ice Festival to sit down for an interview. Tim has been a climbing adventurer for over 20 years. This odyssey started in Wales, involved the then new-ish sport of deep water soloing, moved to ice climbing, competitive ice …

Continue reading "Episode 170: Tim Emmett – To Strive, To Seek, To Find."

On Episode 169 of the Enormocast, I meet up at the home of a mutual friend with Quinn Brett. Quinn took a monstrous fall on El Cap in October of 2017 that should have killed her, but it didn’t. Instead, Quinn is left paralyzed from the waist down and facing a new life with a …

Continue reading "Episode 169: Quinn Brett – Forward from the Fall."

On Episode 168 of the Enormocast, I sit down in North Conway, New Hampshire with guide, father, and climber, Peter Doucette. Peter grew up, learned to climb, and still lives in New Hampshire near North Conway. He cut his teeth guiding in Wyoming, but returned home to start his own show, Mountain Sense, and, well, …

Continue reading "Episode 168: Peter Doucette – Guided to the Mountains."

On Episode 167, Steve Dilk, Andrew Bisharat, and I load up the whiskey glasses and sit down for a good old fashioned shit-talking session about climbing trends that have died, should have died, or are wobbling toward the grave. What better way to start the New Year than a metaphor about death? First we review …

Continue reading "Episode 167: TAPS part Deux AKA Climbing Humor is Dead."

On Episode 166 of the Enormocast, fan-favorite James Lucas returns! The intervening years since James’ most recent previous show and first appearance on the Enormocast have sobered the pie-baking-dirtbag into a contributing member of society. Now in Boulder at Climbing Magazine and happily dating pro-climber Nina Williams, our former redpoint-soloist and reluctant spokes-person for the …

Continue reading "Episode 166: James Lucas – A Recipe for Success."

On Episode 165 of the Enormocast, I sit down with quite possibly the world’s best rock climber, Adam Ondra. I found Adam luxuriating with 4 friends and colleagues in the Super Bowl Campground in Indian Creek, UT of all places. He and his crew were on a whirlwind tour of Yosemite, Smith Rocks, and Indian …

Continue reading "Episode 165: Adam Ondra – Getting Closer to the Luck."

On Episode 164 of the Enormocast, I sit down with CLIMB!ing legend, Jamie Logan. Logan was one of a handful of climbers in 1970s era Boulder, CO redefining what climbing would look like in the coming decades: from resetting free-climbing standards to imagining new difficulty and new styles in the alpine. After climbing a visionary …

Continue reading "Episode 164: Jamie Logan – Owning Her Identity."

On Episode 163 of the Enormocast, I sit down in an RV in the Supercrack parking lot with wellness coach, Blake Cason. Blake, through her business Pivot Integrative Wellness, helps people achieve wellness through mindfulness and radical honesty. Blake has turned her knowledge to climbing specific habits and behaviors in an effort to help climbers …

Continue reading "Episode 163: Blake Cason – Let’s Be Honest."

On Episode 162 of the Enormocast, I sit down with visually impaired climber, Justin Salas. Hailing from the unlikely climbing locale of Tulsa, Oklahoma, Justin started losing his sight to an unidentified syndrome while a teenager. The first thing to be abandoned was his passion for BMX, then depression set in. Luckily, a friend got …

Continue reading "Episode 162: Justin Salas – Trading Eyesight for a Vision."

On Episode 161 of the Enormocast, I sit down with young wall-climber, Jordan Cannon. Jordan’s path to climbing, while rather normal 30 years ago, flies in the face of the standard young person’s path through the gym to the boulders. Instead, Jordan went pretty straight to the big walls without passing GO. Armed with endless …

Continue reading "Episode 161: Jordan Cannon – Looking Back to Go Forward."

On Episode 160 of the Enormocast, I sit down with blogger and freshly minted podcaster, Kathy Karlo. Kathy made a name for herself with her For the Love of Climbing blog , and has now rocked climbing podcasting with a new show that pulls no punches on the dark and difficult emotions in the climbing …

Continue reading "Episode 160: Kathy Karlo Goes Deep."

On Episode 159 of the Enormocast, I sit down with professional climber Sam Elias in his camper parked at Rifle Mountain Park. With the creek gurgling in the background and the occasional late night drive-by, we get deep into Sam’s motivations and psyche. Once on a pro-skiing track, Sam decided to slow his life down …

Continue reading "Episode 159: Sam Elias – You Can’t Climb Everything."

On Episode 158 of the Enormocast, I sit down in my sweet Denver hotel room with Ken Yager and Allyson Gunsallus of the Yosemite Climbing Association. Ken Yager started the Yosemite Facelift event 15 years ago out of his pickup, and the gathering has since cleaned up mountains of trash and debris from Yosemite Valley. …

Continue reading "Episode 158: Ken Yager and the Yosemite Facelift."

On Episode 157, I sit down in Bishop California with adventure climber and long lost friend, Katie Lambert, for a raucous, story-filled interview. Katie recounts her journey from the distinctly climbingless State of Louisiana to Toulumne and Yosemite Valley. Katie tells of her travails trying to get into America’s Hat, climbing in the Northwest Territories …

Continue reading "Episode 157: Katie Lambert – Face Yourself."

LISTEN TO PART 1 HERE. On Episode 156 of the Enormocast, we find the second half of an interview with artist, photographer, climber, historian, Dean Fidelman. Dean was/is a Stonemaster, was/is a Stone Monkey – the only guy to really span those two distant eras. His climbing odyssey began in the early 70s at Stony Point …

Continue reading "Episode 156: Dean Fidelman – Film, Like Love, Takes Time Part 2."

On Episode 155 of the Enormocast, I sit down in Lynn Hill‘s office with artist, photographer, climber, historian, Dean Fidelman. Dean was/is a Stonemaster, was/is a Stone Monkey – the only guy to really span those two distant eras. His climbing odyssey began in the early 70s at Stony Point in Los Angeles, and 40 some …

Continue reading "Episode 155: Dean Fidelman – Film, Like Love, Takes Time Part 1."

On Episode 154 of the Enormocast, I sit down back stage at the Summit Music Hall in Denver, Colorado with Senses Fail frontman and founding member, Buddy Nielsen. Buddy has been the lead singer and driving force behind this acclaimed hardcore band since 2002. Living the touring rock band life led him into many of …

Continue reading "Epsiode 154: Buddy Nielsen – One Version of a Dangerous World."

On Episode 152 of the Enormocast, I met up with ice-climber, rock-climber, guide, and gym-owner, Janet Wilkinson, in her breakfast nook in New Hampshire. Janet came up in climbing when female trad-climbers and guides were still few and far between and cut her teeth with the boys. But in search of lady partners, she made …

Continue reading "Episode 153: Janet Wilkinson – A Little Help From Her Friends."

On Episode 152 of the Enormocast, I realize a stated dream by sitting down in the Oasis Camper Trailer with Mark Hudon and Max Jones. Max and Mark quietly pushed the boundaries of free climbing in the late 70s in Yosemite. Operating under the shadows of the likes of Kauk and Bachar, Jones and Hudon …

Continue reading "Episode 152: Mark Hudon and Max Jones – As Free as Can Be."

On Episode 151 of the Enormocast, you, dear listener, join the Enormocast for an ascent of Golden Gate on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. Golden Gate is a variation off the Salathe Wall, and as a free climb, the next step up from FreeRider. On May 18th, 2018, Steve Dilk and I blasted off up …

Continue reading "Episode 151: A Candid Ascent of El Cap."

On Episode 150 of the Enormocast, we tape a live one in front of an audience at for the 5Point Film Festival. I invited old friend Brendan Leonard of semi-rad.com to moderate a discussion between myself and Fitz Cahall of The Dirtbag Diaries and Duct Tape Then Beer. Fitz was well into his podcast career when …

Continue reading "Episode 150: Live at 5Point with Brendan Leonard and OG podcaster, Fitz Cahall."

On Episode 149 of the Enormocast, I sit down in the Wilkinson Family “Shabin” (shed that became a cabin) with the alpinist and author, Freddie Wilkinson. Freddie is known throughout the land as a super capable and stoked partner, but he’s also got his finger in the pie of many climbing related endeavors besides sending …

Continue reading "Episode 149: Freddie Wilkinson – Just Stoked to Be There."

On Episode 148, I had the honor and pleasure of talking to Hugh Herr. Hugh was a prodigy rock climber as a kid, and in 1982, at the age of 17, an accident on Mt Washington in New Hampshire changed the course of his life forever, and ironically, perhaps for the better. Hugh and his …

Continue reading "Episode 148: Hugh Herr – Never Broken."

On Episode 147 of the Enormocast, I sit down with current American Alpine Club CEO, Phil Powers. Phil cut his climbing teeth as an instructor at NOLS, and went on to combine a deep personal climbing resumé with guiding and instruction across the US and the world. At the helm of the AAC, Phil has …

Continue reading "Episode 147: Phil Powers – Teacher, Steward, Student."

On Episode 146 of the Enormocast, I journey to Jackson, New Hampshire to sit down with an old friend, Majka Burhardt. Majka has actually been on the show twice before but the files were ruined one way or another due to inept skills on the part of the Royal We. Finally, 4 years after the …

Continue reading "Episode 146: Majka Burhardt – From Climbing to Conservation."

On Episode 145 of the Enormocast, I sit down with my friend and Carbondale local, Mary Harlan. I often get requests for the “everyman (sic)” interview, and though Mary is not ordinary, nor is she a man, she does tread near the mainstream category as not only a good and experienced climber, but a mother, …

Continue reading "Episode 145: Mary Harlan – Almost Famous."

On Episode 144 of the Enormocast, I sit down at the Ouray ice festival with ice climbing dark horse, Rapheal Slawinski. While a total legend in his backyard of the Canadian Rockies, Raph is maybe not quite the household name of his compatriot, Will Gadd. Yet, he has been on the forefront of ice climbing, …

Continue reading "Episode 144: Raphael Slawinski – Control Within the Chaos."

On Episode 143 of the Enormocast, Andrew Bisharat, Steve Dilk, and I sit down with a bottle of whiskey and look back on the year and decide what notions and ideas in climbing are dead, or dying. Do Euros really suck at crack climbing the way the forums might see it? Can you really get …

Continue reading "Episode 143: The TAPS Edition AKA Kill Your Daisy Chain with Andrew Bisharat and Steve Dilk."

On Episode 142 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a wide open and relaxing space in SLC to talk to big wall legend, John Middendorf. John disappeared to Tasmania after single-handedly changing big wall climbing in the 1990s. Previously, porta-ledges afforded respite from the vertical, but could not hold any serious storm at bay. …

Continue reading "Episode 142: John Middendorf – Build It and They Will Go"

On Episode 141, my friend and climbing advocate, Sam Lightner, returns for his sophomore appearance on the Enormocast after joining us way back on Episode 9. Sam just recently published a book, Heavy Green, about a battle in the Vietnam War that involved a climbing twist as the NVA were faced with a climbing crux …

Continue reading "Episode 141: Sam Lightner Jr. – Heavy Green."

On Episode 140 of the Enormocast, I sit down with World Citizen by way of Finland, Nalle Hukkataival. Much to my surprise, we found ourselves discussing at great length a single boulder problem, Burden of Dreams, something I never would have expected on the Enormocast. However, as we delve into Nalle’s send of what is …

Continue reading "Episode 140: Nalle Hukkataival – Going Beyond."

On Episode 139 of the Enormocast, I sit down with mountain runner, or running explorer, or climber runner, or just plain runner, Joe Grant. Joe and I connected at a fundraising event for the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance in Salt Lake City, and while Joe was telling me about his running passion and long distance …

Continue reading "Episode 139: Joe Grant – Analyzing the Simple."

On Episode 138 of the Enormocast, I sit down with my old friend, Heidi Wirtz. Heidi came up in climbing rock and ice in the hard-knocks backwater of Crested Butte, CO. She learned to take chances but never take money for climbing. After committing fully to the dirtbag lifestyle, Heidi nevertheless soon found herself wanting …

Continue reading "Episode 138: Heidi Wirtz – The Long Game."

On Episode 137 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a glass room with boulderer, sport climber, and secret trad-head, Carlo Traversi. Though mostly known for very very hard bouldering, Carlo’s humble beginnings, like many, started in a gym and with a dusting of trad credentials. But once he tasted hard bouldering – ironically on …

Continue reading "Episode 137: Carlo Traversi – Beyond Bouldering."

On Episode 136 of the Enormocast, I sit down beside the Popo Agie River in Lander, Wyoming at the International Climbers Festival with Shelma Jun. Shelma somewhat accidentally started FlashFoxy, which after beginning as a humble Instagram account among friends, morphed into an advocacy movement for women’s climbing. Shelma then added the Women’s Climbing Festival …

Continue reading "Episode 136: Shelma Jun – A Better Way."

On Episode 135 of the Enormocast, I sit down with author and trainer, Arno Ilgner. Arno is probably most famous for his book, The Rock Warrior’s Way, but he is also known for his fearsome routes in the Southeast and beyond. Ilgner found himself at a crossroads 22 years ago and unsatisfied with just climbing and …

Continue reading "Episode 135: Arno Ilgner – Climbing Deep."

On Episode 134, I sit down with alpinist and filmmaker, Graham Zimmerman. Graham has found the magic mix of working in the outdoor industry and still getting to go on trip after trip to the high alpine. The secret is working both sides of the lens as a crack mountaineer and a dedicated film auteur. …

Continue reading "Episode 134: Graham Zimmerman – Both Sides of the Lens."

On Episode 132, I sit down with Alex Honnold. You may have heard of him. He recently free-handed the El Capitan. But seriously, a seriously-still-stoked Alex Honnold joins the Enormocast for his sophomore appearance. In opposition to his many recent mainstream appearances, on Jimmy Kimmel for example, we decided that a total move-for-move nerd-out on his history-making …

Continue reading "Episode 133: Alex Honnold – Kind of a Big Deal."

On Episode 132 of the Enormocast, we’ve gathered a panel at the 5Point Film Festival to record a live discussion of climbing films. In the elements on a cold April day, the panel digs deep into film making, curating, watching, and enjoying. Dave O’Leske recently released Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey, a doc about …

Continue reading "Episode 132: Live from 5Point Film Festival- Climbing Films."

On Episode 131 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Austrian climber, Hansjörg Auer. Hans somewhat reluctantly blasted onto the European climbing scene 10 years ago with an audacious free solo ascent of il Pesce (The Fish) on the Marmolada in the Dolomites of Northern Italy. Before and since that day, Hans has continued to …

Continue reading "Episode 131: Hansjörg Auer – Finding the Moment."

On Episode 130, I sit down with Italian rock climber, Jacopo Larcher. We caught up while both in Spain and climbing at Siurana. Jacopo was on a mission to climb La Rambla (9a), which he did, and I was on a mission to pull off the first international trip with the Enormobaby, which we did. …

Continue reading "Episode 130- Jacopo Larcher – So Many Routes, So Many Dreams"

On Episode 129 of the Enormocast, I sit down with consummate alpinist, Steve Swensen. Steve’s career in the big mountains has spanned decades. As a kid, Steve dreamed of flying to the stars as an Apollo astronaut, but he chose to climb as close to space as possible instead. While he has climbed worldwide, his …

Continue reading "Episode 129: Steve Swenson – Almost an Astronaut."

On Episode 128, I dig back in the archives for a live show recorded last year at the American Alpine Club’s Craggin’ Classic in Devils Lake, WI. One rainy, soggy, muddy night, three guest joined me for a panel discussion on the colorful history of the upper Midwest’s most storied cliff. Guidebook author Jay Knower, …

Continue reading "Episode 128: Live from Devils Lake Craggin’ Classic"

On Episode 27 of the Enormocast, I sit down with blind adventurer Erik Weihenmayer. Erik found climbing just in time to save him from a miserable existence in the dark safe place where taking chances and adventure are out of the question. Instead, Erik learned to push against his boundaries and seek fearful situations to …

Continue reading "Episode 127: Erik Weihenmayer – Learning by Letting Go."

On Episode 126 of the Enormocast, I sit down with boulderer, sport climber, doctor, father, husband, and…ninja, Noah Kaufman. We discuss his up-coming Wolfpack Ninja Tour, how the whole ninja thing started, but then we get to climbing. Noah discusses why there is, in fact, more to life than climbing. He waxes poetic, and a bit …

Continue reading "Episode 126: Noah Kaufman – Not Just a Ninja."

On Episode 125, I sit down in two different hotel rooms with young boulderer and budding tradster, Nina Williams. Nina takes us through an early cheating incident that formed the basis of why and how she climbs to this day. She walks us down the road of a pro climber with its pressures and requirements. …

Continue reading "Episode 125: Nina Williams Comes Clean."

On Episode 124 of the Enormcast, I sit down with sport climbing legend, Boone Speed. Like the Royal We here at the Enormocast, Boone came into climbing on the very cusp of the sport climbing revolution, but he quickly found himself in an overly steep cave in American Fork, Utah bolting what would become the hardest …

Continue reading "Episode 124: Boone Speed – Climbing Creative."

On Episode 123 of the Enormocast, I it down in Cody, Wyoming at the Cody Ice Fest with alpinist Kitty Calhoun. Kitty grew up in “society” in South Carolina, but quickly learned to live simply and love the mountains. The late 70s found her bumbling up ice climbs in Vermont and dreaming of big peaks. …

Continue reading "Episode 123: Kitty Calhoun – The Mountains are Calling."

On Episode 122 of the Enormocast, I sit down rather early in the morning with the “Ambassador to The Nose” Hans Florine. Hans holds the speed record for The Nose on El Capitan with Alex Honnold at 2:23:46- basically, less time than you spent on Facebook yesterday. But Hollywood Hans has been a freewheeling Cali climber …

Continue reading "Episode 122: Hans Florine – A Need for Speed (Climbing)."

On Episode 121 of the Enormocast, I sit down with friend, musician, and former band-mate, Chris Parker. Chris and I discuss his ambitions with both music and climbing, and why its so tough to be addicted to both. His mission in life is to reconcile the all-consuming passion for climbing with the discipline and demands …

Continue reading "Episode 121: Christopher Parker – Went Down To The Crossroads."

On Episode 120, the Enormocast REBROADCASTS Kris Hampton’s interview with Miguel and Dario Ventura of the infamous and beloved Miguels Pizza in the Red River Gorge. Kris reached out with this interview because though he posted it over at his podcast, The Power Company Podcast, he thought it had just the right feel for an …

Continue reading "Episode 120: Kris Hampton, Miguel and Dario Ventura – Life Imitates Art [REBROADCAST]"

On Episode 119 of the Enormocast, I sit down in Grand Junction, in the landing pad of Mayan Smith-Gobat, to interview young alpinist and free climber, Brette Harrington. Oft mistaken for a Canadian because of her ties to Squamish, this young American climber has been lighting up in climbing media with tales of audacious solos …

Continue reading "Episode 119: Brette Harrington – Go Your Own Way."

On Episode 118, I sit down with consummate mountain man, Conrad Anker. Recorded before his recent brush with the reaper (see below), Conrad was already all too familiar with tragedy in the mountains. A protégé of the late Mugs Stump, and goto partner of the fallen Alex Lowe, Conrad has been through the dark valley more …

Continue reading "Episode 118: Conrad Anker – You’ve Come Far, Pilgrim."

On Episode 117, I sit down in a La Quinta Inn in Rifle, Colorado (the town, not the climbing area) with Heather Weidner. Heather and I nerd out on the process it took for her to do the first female ascent of China Doll (5.14R) sans bolts. Then we go deeper. After sending the multi-year …

Continue reading "Episode 117: Heather Weidner – The Life of Try."

On Episode 116, I sit down with big wall badass ans speed climber, Dave Allfrey. His endless psyche and skills-to-pay-the-bills has made Dave one of the go-to guys in the Sierra and beyond when moving fast and safe is on the menu. Dave’s years on SAR and mentorships from some of the best has made …

Continue reading "Episode 116: Dave Allfrey – Psyched and Solid."

On Episode 115 of the Enormocast, boulderer Paul Robinson sits down for a great talk about process. It turns out that puberty was all it took for Paul Robinson to become great. Well, that and 10,000 hours breathing BO and chalk dust in a gym. But more than that, Paul talks about relentless positivity, embracing …

Continue reading "Episode 115: Paul Robinson Loves to Fail."

On Episode 114 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Black Diamond’s Climbing Category Director and former Director of Quality, Kolin Powick. Episode 114 is filled with science and nerds out on gear. We start specifically with Black Diamond’s recent recalls, but then we move into gear issues generally. Myths, misconceptions, mistakes are all discussed. …

Continue reading "Episode 114: Kolin Powick uses SCIENCE to keep you ALIVE!"

On Episode 113, I finally move Rob Pizem from his on-deck status to current guest after saving him for a rainy day for a few years. Pizem, AKA Piz, manages a “normal” life in Grand Junction, Colorado and still climbs really hard. I try to glean the magic of how to have it all: a job(s), kids, …

Continue reading "Episode 113: Rob Pizem – The Time is Now."

On Episode 112, I sit down with crack master Jean-Pierre, AKA Peewee, Ouellet. This one is for the crack nerds- the folks for whom the difference between a ring-lock and a finger-stack can be an all night, booze fueled debate, and JP delivers. We learn about his very specific approach to hard crack “collecting”. JP …

Continue reading "Episode 112: Jean-Pierre “Peewee” Ouellet – The Collector."

On Episode 111 of the Enormocast, I sit down with rock climber and genuine good guy, Brad Gobright. This lighthearted “kid” approaches climbing the gnar with joy and stoke, but don’t let that fool you – he’s got the eye of the tiger and skills of the ninja. Brad has been quietly crushing first free …

Continue reading "Episode 111: Brad Gobright – High Class Dirtbag."

On Episode 110 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a seedy hotel in SLC with a very Zen Cheyne Lempy. Cheyne had just returned from a session with Rock Warrior Way‘s author, Arno Ilgner, and was feeling absolutely himself. Cheyne instantly unloads about his trip to Baffin depicted in his film, Haywire. His first …

Continue reading "Episode 110: Cheyne Lempe – Finding His Way."

On Episode 109 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a sweltering Mobile Studio at City Park in Lander, Wyomin’ during the IFC with climber, Chelsea Rude. Chelsea grew up in the South dreaming of the West and finally made the move to Colorado to pursue her climbing dreams. That dream at first revolved around …

Continue reading "Episode 109: Chelsea Rude – Can She Suffer? Yes, She Can."

On Episode 108 of the Enormocast, I sit down in the Mobile Studio in Rifle Mountain Park with Joe Kinder. Joe grew up in New England where he joined a crew of hotshot sport climbers that included Tim Kemple, Luke GOMEZ Parady, and Dave Graham. Self-described as the weakest of that band, Joe has nevertheless …

Continue reading "Episode 108: Joe Kinder – Working for it."

On Episode 107 of the Enormocast, I sit down in an office in Carbondale with expedition climber, explorer, and super-dad, Mike Libecki. Mike was once just a Yosemite climbing- bum like so many before him, but then he found expedition climbing and his fate was …

Continue reading "Episode 107: Mike Libecki – Passion for Adventure."

On Episode 106 of the Enormocast, join Chris and guests Cedar Wright, Leici Hendrix, and Jen Altschul for a live listener mail from Bonfire Coffee in downtown Carbondale, CO. We discuss various questions concerning love on the rocks, lowering vs rappelling off anchors, and more. Wonky and freewheeling, you never know what you’re going to …

Continue reading "Episode 106: Live from Bonfire Coffee 2016 w/ Cedar Wright, Leici Hendrix, and Jen Altschul."

On Episode 105, I sit down for a trip down memory lane with Canadian hero Will Stanhope. After cutting his teeth in Squamish, Will, and his buddy Jason Kruk, took Canadian climbing up a notch or two in the last decade. In an era of hotshot boulderers and sport climbers, Will took the opposite track …

Continue reading "Episode 105: Will Stanhope – Real Men Don’t Cry (Mostly)."

On episode 104, I sit down in the Mobile Studio with German climber, Ines Papert. Ines started like many by hiking in her local mountains in Bavaria. But one day she decided walking around cliff faces sucked, and her fate was sealed. She has since become one of the top mixed ice climbers, a strong alpinist, …

Continue reading "Episode 104: Ines Papert – Walking the The Beautiful Line."

On Episode 103, I sit down with dad, husband, climber, skier, and Iraq War vet, Stacy Bare. Stacy is fresh off a trip to Angola with Alex Honnold, but he wants you to know that he’s really not a very good climber. Not good at all. So why did Honnold agree to go to Angola …

Continue reading "Episode 103: Stacy Bare- All We Need is Love, Climbing."

On Episode 102 of the Enormocast, I sit down with long time friend and badass endurance athlete, Rebecca Rusch. Reba, as her friends call her (thanks to me), AKA The Queen of Pain, is known world wide for her feats on her mountain bike, but she was a climber first. After so much success in the …

Continue reading "Episode 102: Rebecca Rusch – Once a Climber, Always a Climber."

On Episode 101 of the Enormocast, I sit down with SLC local, Justin Wood. Justin is a guy who has deep roots in the Salt Lake climbing scene but has traveled the world as a dirtbag and a van bum. Never one to let a job get in the way of a good road trip, …

Continue reading "Episode 101: Justin Wood – Problem Solver."

On Episode 100 of the Enormocast, I get a little help from my friends to celebrate my entire catalog – 100! YEAH, DAWG! – and we then get down to an epic convo with man of the hour, and climber of the ages, Tommy Caldwell. Tommy talks inspiration, professionalism, and the ups and downs of …

Continue reading "Episode 100: Tommy Caldwell – Adventure Addict."

On Episode 99 of the Enormocast, I sit down in yet another seedy hotel with speed climber and former YOSAR member, Libby Sauter. Libby takes her adventure way beyond climbing as a nurse, often flying to far off locals with the Novick Cardiac Alliance. She cut her climbing teeth on the legendary Yosemite Search and …

Continue reading "Episode 99- Libby Sauter – Life on the Short Fix."

On Episode 98 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Midwest native and ice farmer, Eric Barnard. Eric found climbing after Jerry’s death and getting sick and tired of Hacky Sack, and he went on to develop the early bouldering scene at Devil’s Lake, Wisconsin. After a stint in Pocatello, Idaho, he and his family …

Continue reading "Episode 98: Eric Barnard – Small Town, Big Dreams."

On Episode 97 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a limping Mobile Studio with alpinist, and all-around climber, Jay Smith. Jay and I get through his discomfort to talk about his early climbing, his vast motivation for first ascents, rigging, and best partners. Jay may or may not have sanctioned himself Clint-Eastwood-style by revealing classified …

Continue reading "Episode 97: Jay Smith – A Climber for All Seasons."

On Episode 96 of the Enormocast, I luck out and sit down with Swedish/Moroccan/Finnish climber, Said Belhaj. After obsessively adventuring on nearby rocks and breaking into his grade school like a ninja to train, Said found sport climbing and his fate was set. He is a seeker and finds the meditative state in climbing to be …

Continue reading "Episode 96: Said Belhaj – All In, All the Time."

On Episode 95 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a slowly deteriorating studio with German climbing legend, Stefan Glowacz. Stefan informed my early climbing with his seminal book Rocks Around the World. He started as a hotshot comp climber, then a sport climber, and has gone on to establish monster alpine routes and big rock …

Continue reading "Episode 95: Stefan Glowacz – Still on Top."

On Episode 94 of the Enormocast, I enjoy an evening with alpinist, Colin Haley. Colin hails from Washington, grew up scrambling and snow climbing in the Cascades before turning his talents to Alaska, the Himalaya, and Patagonia. Colin methodically built the skills to become one of the …

Continue reading "Episode 94: Colin Haley – The Contender."

On Episode 93 of the Enormocast, I hang with a guy who has spent his life protecting others and protecting climbing, Armando Menocal. An avowed weekend warrior, Armando used climbing to blow off steam from his day job as a human rights lawyer stemming all the way back to the anti-war movement in 1969. Armando …

Continue reading "Episode 93: Armando Menocal – The Peaceful Climbing Warrior."

On Episode 92 of the Enormocast, I reunite with a Enormo-favorite James Lucas. He left his Saturn behind, went to Spain, and climbed the Freerider in a day, all since we last heard from him in Episode 47. James continues to lead the dirtbag life, bouncing from Yosemite, to Salt Lake, and around the world. …

Continue reading "Episode 92: James Lucas – Free Riding."

On Episode 91, I sit down in SLC with climber, musician, and guidebook author, Misty Murphy. Misty has become the maven of Southwest Utah climbing, carrying on in the Utah Hills and beyond with her husband, the route developer Bill Ohran. 5 years in the making, Misty has finally completed the definitive guidebook to the …

Continue reading "Episode 91: Misty Murphy- Limestone Siren."

On Episode 90 of the Enormocast, I sit down across the table from Peter Metcalf, CEO and founder of Black Diamond. Peter discovered his love of the mountains on the East Coast but quickly found himself in the Alaska range testing his teenage mettle against the Last Frontier’s gnarliest peaks. After sating his youthful obsession with …

Continue reading "Episode 90: Peter Metcalf- Big Peaks and High Stakes."

On Episode 89 of the Enormocast, I sit down in an undisclosed location in Salt Lake City with Colorado climber and Everest sumiteer, Emily Harrington. Emily came storming out of the gym as a “kid” and took down many of Rifle’s hardest as a teenager. But unlike many of her compatriots, she aspires to become …

Continue reading "Episode 89: Emily Harrington- On Top o’ the World."

On Episode 88, I return to the Mobile Studio with SuperTopo founder and El Cap Ace, Chris McNamara. Chris started early with an obsession for the big stone, and moved on to a life of adventure in business, in the sky, and around the world. Never one to wait for opportunity to come to him, …

Continue reading "Episode 88: Chris McNamara- Living the Ever Changing Dream."

On Episode 87 of the Enormocast, after some serious cajoling, I sit down in the Mobile Studio with my friend Madaleine Sorkin. A self-professed quiet and closed person, Madaleine is remarkably frank and forthcoming on an episode that deals with finding oneself through climbing, sexuality and gender politics, and her continued struggles with self identity. …

Continue reading "Episode 87: Madaleine Sorkin- Become What You Are."

On Episode 86 of the Enormocast, I invite Mikey Schaefer- alpinist, rock climber, and photographer- into the Mobile Studio parked in Lander City Park for a chat. Mikey arrived just moments after a harsh allergic reaction rendered his eyes nearly useless. After a cold compress of PBR cans, and a couple administered orally, we sat down …

Continue reading "Episode 86: Mikey Schaefer – The Force is Strong."

On Episode 85 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl. Barbara started off an obsessive phenom boulderer, but now she climbs hard, long, scary routes, and she’s no slouch on the sport routes, either. And, she recently dialed in the cracks, as well. Babsi, as she is also known, helps me …

Continue reading "Episode 85: Barbara “Babsi” Zangerl – Leben und Lernen."

On Episode 84, I sit down in a clean well-lit place in SLC during The Black Diamond Rock Project with German climber Daniel Jung. Daniel shakes off a nap while talking about his upbringing in Deutschland. He chronicles his humble beginnings and inspirations to his modern day building of a local gym for his fellow …

Continue reading "Episode 84: Daniel Jung – The Climber’s Climber."

On Episode 83 of the Enormocast, I sit down in front of a live audience at Bonfire Coffee in Carbondale, CO during the 5Point Film Festival with Hayden Kennedy, Andrew Bisharat, and Brenden Leonard. We discuss the mainstream media’s sudden love affair with rock climbing, social media, the internet and whether climbing has lost its …

Continue reading "Episode 83: #instafacetweetmygram with Hayden Kennedy, Brendan Leonard, and Andrew Bisharat."

On Episode 82 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a magical place with mountaineering legend and Bozeman native, Jack Tackle. From the Montana to the Himalaya to Patagonia, and most importantly, to Alaska, Jack Tackle has set light and fast standards since before that was a “thing”. This dogged, humble, hardman is still revered …

Continue reading "Episode 82: Jack Tackle – True Grit."

On Epsiode 81, I sit down at the Bonnie Springs Hotel during the Red Rock Rendezvous for a chat with a personal hero: Peter Croft. While I try to contain my fawning, Peter expounds on his relationship with John Bachar, the first free solo of Astroman, El Cap and Half Dome in a day, and …

Continue reading "Episode 81: Peter Croft- Kid in a Candy Store."

On Episode 80 of the Enormocast, I lure Swiss climber Nina Caprez into the van down by the reservoir. Another exciting interview in the Spain chronicles, Nina charms the hell out of me by explaining why big climbing rules her world, why social media is not really her thing, and why she just isn’t that …

Continue reading "Episode 80: Nina Caprez- For the love of climbing."

On Episode 79 of the Enormocast, I get a decent recording from the live event at Mountain Gear‘s Red Rock Rendezvous. This premier climbing festival brings in hundreds for clinics, climbing, music, beer, and…well, lots of beer. My guests Libby Sauter, Ethan Pringle, and Andres Marin talked about fear, and in Ethan’s case loathing, …

Continue reading "Episode 79- Fear, not loathing, in Las Vegas (Live)."

On Episode 78 of the Enormocast, I send some love north to America’s Hat with an interview with Canadian Superstar, Sonnie Trotter. Sonnie sits down in a van by a lake in Siurana, Spain to talk about his origins, his inspirations, and his journey through most of the disciplines that climbing has to offer. Living …

Continue reading "Episode 78- Sonnie Trotter- Nicer Than You Are."

On Epsiode 77, I’m working hard for you on my Spanish vacation tracking down Austrian kraftpakets Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stöhr. My friend Bernardo Giminez facilitated a meeting and Anna and Kilian were gracious enough to invite me into their temporary home to talk. In perfect English, they explain their military sponsorship, the Austrian climbing …

Continue reading "Episode 77: Anna Stöhr and Kilian Fischhuber- The Iron Couple"

On Episode 76 of the Enormocast, I sit down deep in the heart of Catalunya with American climber Ethan Pringle. A wary and weary Ethan sits down to bare his soul about his motivations as a pro climber. Its not all proud sends and free shoes in Ethanlandia. Ethan talks about the evolution of his …

Continue reading "Episode 76: Ethan Pringle- Don’t Call it a Comeback…"

On Episode 75 of the Enormocast, I sit down in Salt Lake City with visiting British jack-of-all-climbing-trades, Stevie Haston. Stevie has a reputation as a malcontent with a short fuse, but what I find on a somewhat blurry morning is a soft spoken and altogether warmer individual than the climbing world would have us expect. …

Continue reading "Episode 75: Stevie Haston- Rad Reputation."

On Episode 74, we begin by celebrating the Enromocast’s 1 millionth download- Uncle Phil, I know it was you! Then I get to the conversation with The Access Fund Executive Director, Brady Robinson. Brady talks about talking his way into his post at the AF, being Jimmy Chin’s wingman, and all the amazing things that …

Continue reading "Episode 74: Brady Robinson- The Accidental Advocate."

On Episode 73 of the Enormocast, I pay a visit to Devils Tower Legend, Frank Sanders. Frank runs the Devils Tower Lodge in the shadow of the Tower. His first magical trip to DT occurred in the early 70s, and he’s never lost that loving feeling. Frank’s climbing accomplishments span three continents, and include climbing …

Continue reading "Episode 73: Frank Sanders- Man of the Tower."

On Episode 72 of the Enormocast, I barrel through record snow in the Previa to meet up with Kelly Cordes. Kelly has graced the Mobile Studio and the Live Stage on the Enormocast, but on this night, he proudly recounts the harrowing task of writing (and saying) The Tower: A Chronicle of Climbing and Controversy …

Continue reading "Episode 72: Author Kelly Cordes- In Search of Justice."

On Episode 71 of the Enormocast, I sit down with New River Gorge climber and Team Texas alum, Jessa Goebel. It also happens to be the 3rd anniversary of the Enormocast. Whoopee! 3 years behind us. Good lord, that’s a lot of frothy spray. Jessa talks about rebelling in her youth and anchoring her attitude …

Continue reading "Episode 71: Jessa Goebel- Making it work."

On Episode 70 of the Enormocast, we dip into the neglected mail bag for listener mail. My guests Simon Longacre, Steve Dilk, Tracy Wilson (from Episode 15), and I answer burning listener questions. What do you do about scary gumbies at the cliff? How do you pick up a hot climber girl? How to not …

Continue reading "Episode 70: Listener Mail Volume 3"

On Episode 69 of the Enormocast, we present a LIVE show from the New River Gorge Craggin’ Classic. The Enormocast hosts guests Kenny Parker of Waterstone Outdoors and New River Guidebook Author Mikey Williams in the American Alpine Club campground above the New River Gorge. In front of a raucous crowd, we hash out the …

Continue reading "Episode 69: Live Enormocast New River Gorge Craggin' Classic."

On Episode 68 of the Enormocast, I pull out one from a few months ago in Lander. Photographer and climber Becca Skinner sits down in the Mobile Studio for a deep talk. Becca fills us in on growing up in a climbing family, losing her beloved Uncle, Todd Skinner, and taking a step back from …

Continue reading "Episode 68: Becca Skinner- Living the Legacy."

On Episode 67 of the Enormocast, I pull one more interview out of the dingy hotel in SLC. Dawn Glanc, from Episode 57: Mega pack, returns for a full interview. From 4×4 enthusiast to Black Hills badass, to Ouray CO homegirl, Dawn’s path to ice climbing and guiding was never set in stone. Also, Dawn …

Continue reading "Episode 67: Dawn Glanc – The Icewoman Cometh."

On Epsiode 66, I sit down in a dumpy hotel in SLC with Angela Van Wiemeersch. Angela’s story began on the sharp blades of competition skating and came full circle when she strapped on crampons for the first time. In the meantime, we hear about a whirlwind …

Continue reading "Epsiode 66: Angela Van Wiemeersch- The Ice Gypsy"

On Episode 65 of the Enormocast, I sit down in some random hotel room in Salt Lake City for a chat with my good friend Russ Clune. Gunks local, long time hardman, world traveller, Clune fills us in on the beginnings of sport climbing, comp climbing, and the heyday of European free climbing. He participated …

Continue reading "Episode 65: Russ Clune- The Lifer."

On Episode 64 of the Enormocast, I sit down will friends Bill Ramsey and Dan Mirsky. Bill is a climber who cut his teeth during the pre-sport days at Smith Rock, went on to develop the early hard climbing in the Red, and now tics routes at will in Vegas. Dan is an up and …

Continue reading "Episode 64: Bill Ramsey and Dan Mirsky – The Student Becomes the Master."

On Episode 63 of the Enormocast, I sit down in the Mobile Studio (this time, actually mobilized to Lander, WY) for some SCIENCE! Dr. Jared Vagy is a Doctor of Physical Therapy and an orthopedic specialist with a whole bunch of other letters after his name, and he has studied climbing injury prevention like nobody …

Continue reading "Episode 63: Dr. Jared Vagy- The Climbing Doctor is in."

On Episode 62 of the Enormocast, dedicated boulderer Angie Payne is lured into the sweltering Mobile Studio for a deep talk about her inner workings. Angie candidly tells us about her struggles with perfectitude, expectations, and the midwest mindset. Climbing Vwhatever did not come easy to the former Cinci golden girl. Angie Payne took the …

Continue reading "Episode 62: Angie Payne- Type A for Angela."

On Episode 61 of the Enormocast, I roll the mobile studio to the Northern Corner of the Bromuda Triangle for a sit down with author Don McGrath about his book, Vertical Mind. Along with Jeff Elison, Don wrote Vertical Mind about how to train the mind to work with the body in climbing, rather than, …

Continue reading "Episode 61: Don McGrath and the Vertical Mind."

On Episode 60, we record a live one on Climbing Lawyer Dan Markoff’s deck overlooking Boulder, Colorado. Climbers Topher Donahue and Chris Van Leuven join me for a discussion of what it takes to lose that new climber smell, and replace it with old trad-climber stink. The sometimes contentious discussion ranges from toothbrush shaving, to …

Continue reading "Episode 60: Building a Better Climber w/ Topher Donahue and Chris Van Leuven"

On Episode 59 of the Enormocast, I finally lure the elusive (at least for me) artist Jeremy Collins into the Enormostudio for a chat. The free-range convo covers art, family, faith, climbing, and expeditions. Jeremy explains where the connection between his art and his love of climbing intersect, and how climbing is more than just …

Continue reading "Episode 59: Jeremy Collins – The Art of Climbing."

On Episode 58, the Enormocast breaks the boulderer drought by bringing on compression problem savant, Chris Schulte. Chris arrived in Carbondale to bartend for the 5Point Film Festival, and graciously followed up his mini interview on Episode 57 with a full length sit down. Chris talks of his …

Continue reading "Episode 58: Chris Schulte – Bouldering sensei."

On Episode 57 of the Enormocast, we blaze through four separate mini-interviews with four excellent climbers recorded at the 2014 Redrock Renedezvous. Nik Berry is a young(er) guy coming out of SLC and destroying everything he touches, with a recent free ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall under his belt. Chris Shulte is a soul-boulderer with …

Continue reading "Episode 57: Enormocast Mega Pack"

On Episode 56 (not 55!) of the Enormocast, I fight the sound of the clinking coffee cups and the hiss of the espresso machine to bring you a Live Enormocast from Bonfire Coffee in Carbondale. The winds of 5Point Film Festival brought my three guests to town: agitator Jonathan Thesenga, OG photog Chris Noble, and …

Continue reading "Episode 56: Live Enormocast from Bonfire Coffee."

On Episode 55 of the Enormocast, I seek out mad desert climber Eric Bjornstad. Though confined to a care facility in Moab, Eric is as bearded and bright-eyed as ever. He recounts his years climbing with Beckey, writing guidebooks, and mastering the dirtbag dream in a pre-outdoor-lifestyle Moab few can remember. Other than his homie …

Continue reading "Episode 55: Eric Bjornstad- OD (Original Dirtbag)."

On Episode 54, the Royal We sits down with a bevy of ladies to talk about what makes the perfect climbing male. We discuss superfluous shirt-off climbing, buddy spray, and if climbing hard makes one sexier. A gallon of Cabernet, some nice curtains, and my deep tenor is all it took to get the ladies …

Continue reading "Episode 54: Lady's Night at the Enormocast"

On Episode 53 of the Enormocast, Josh Wharton and I grow drowsy in an uncomfortably warm conference room at the George Something-or-other library in Boulder. Josh shares the highs and lows of his upbringing, talks about his scariest moment in a life of scary moments, and admits that he cried through his first climbing expedition. …

Continue reading "Episode 53: Josh Wharton- Too good to flail."

On Episode 52, we wrap up the second half of my epic interview with Lynn Hill. See Part 1 here. Believing that she could do it was all that it really took for Lynn to free the Nose in 1993, and again in a day in 1994 (nearly 20 years ago! Holy crap!). This feat …

Continue reading "Episode 52: Lynn Hill- Ain’t No Mountain High Enough. Part 2."

On Episode 51, I have posted up the first half of a far-reaching interview with legend Lynn Hill. In this installment, Lynn talks about her near death experience, her beginnings in So Cal, and her association with some of the greats from those halcyon days in the 70s in Josh. She also reveals why she …

Continue reading "Episode 51: Lynn Hill- Ain’t No Mountain High Enough. Part 1"

On Episode 50, Brendan Leonard returns to the show for an interview with your not-so-humble host, Chris Kalous. Chris talks about his strange premeditated journey to climbing, his vision for the Enormocast, and even manages NOT to say Free Rider, or the Black Canyon (but a couple Indian Creeks do slip in). You asked for …

Continue reading "Episode 50: Chris Kalous- Dancing with myself."

On Episode 49 of the Enormocast, we rebroadcast audio from the 5point Aspen event from Feb 2013. During that event, I hosted Alex Honnold and Michael and Hayden Kennedy in front of a capacity crowd at the Wheeler Opera House in Aspen. Honnold is conspicuously low key, Hayden is a smartass, and Michael drops wisdom …

Continue reading "Episode 49: On Stage with Honnold and Kennedy²."

On Episode 48 of the Enormocast, we arrive at the two year anniversary of the Enormocast! Whoot! I know. Right? More importantly, British hotshot Hazel Findlay sits down in the Mobile Studio amidst an unfortunate desert blizzard to fill us in on her origins in the British climbing scene, her life as a sponsored monkey, …

Continue reading "Episode 48: Hazel Findlay – Being blonde, bold, and resolute!"

On Episode 47, James Lucas returns to the Enormocast. If we recall, James told us about his pie baking defeat in the 2012 Carbondale Mountain Fair pie baking contest in Episode 21, and this summer he returned for vengeance on the old ladies of Carbondale. James also fills us in on the new developments this …

Continue reading "Episode 47: James Lucas- The Life of Pie."

On Episode 46, the Enormocast reunites with Jen Vennon Bisharat and Michael Logan from Episode 14 for another Listener Mail Hoedown. On this installment, we revisit guy/girl climbing issues, and we try to throw a lifeline to a lost listener trapped in Slovakia. We discuss grade chasing and free climbing and why we are all …

Continue reading "Episode 46: Listener Mail Volume Two"

On Episode 45 of the Enormocast, I sit down with kayaker slash ice climber Aaron Mulkey. With the strength of 10 men, Aaron attacks both first descents and first ascents with zeal and unwavering psyche. Aaron admits that he’s a bit of an adrenaline junky and a lucky optimist that gets in over his head …

Continue reading "Episode 45: Aaron Mulkey- Cold, wet and loving it."

On Episode 44 of the Enormocast, a chance meeting leads to an enlightening interview with Iraq war vet Joshua Brandon. Josh explains how struggles with PTSD led him to finding solace in the mountains and climbing (turns out that mountaineering has many of the thrills of combat but without the guys shooting at you). He …

Continue reading "Episode 44: Joshua Brandon alive and well in the mountains."

On Episode 43 of the Enormocast, the Royal We sits down in the immobile studio with Asa Firestone. Asa recently started a company called Beyond Gear to help his mission to get underprivileged Brazilian kids out climbing on their neighborhood rocks. Asa talks about his mission, his lost partner, and why we all need to …

Continue reading "Episode 43: Asa Firestone – Beyond Climbing."

On Episode 42 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Midwestern refugee, Luke Mehall. Luke is an author, publisher, poet, and climber who is not afraid to bear and bare his soul on the written page. In Episode 42, we remember Zines, learn about when it is and isn’t appropriate to inundate a women with …

Continue reading "Episode 42: Luke Mehall- Keeping the Dirtbag Faith."

On Episode 41, I have the distinct pleasure and honor to sit down with one of my heroes, Paul Piana. Paul spent the 80s and 90s defining big free climbing along with his intrepid partner, Todd Skinner. These cowboys shirked tradition and set new standards for big rock climbs all over the continent, hemisphere, and …

Continue reading "Episode 41: Paul Piana, Rock Climbing Legend."

On Episode 40 of the Enormocast, I sit Doug Shepherd down in my comfortably air conditioned hotel room on a sweltering SLC day to discuss alpine climbing. A relative unknown, Doug has climbed in the greater ranges of North and South America and quietly racked up impressive ascents and the respect of his more famous …

Continue reading "Episode 40: Doug Shepherd- Too smart to be stupid."

One Episode 39 of the Enormocast, me and Henry Barber nurse mild hangovers and sit down to talk about his 45 years of climbing. In the 70s, neither your crag nor your women were safe from Hot Henry’s talents. Henry rode the wave of clean climbing and free climbing in the 70s into history with …

Continue reading "Episode 39: Henry Barber, enough said."

On Episode 38 of the Enormocast, I eek out one more closet interview with Cincinnati rapper/climber/artist Kris Odub Hampton. Kris is an interesting character who traveled an unusual path to climbing from the mean streets of Cinci. His provocative climbing rap songs have drawn admirers and haters alike. But we also see the soft side …

Continue reading "Episode 38: Kris Odub Hampton learns that falling is floating."

On Episode 37, I sit down for what is probably the last episode from Studio A- the closet. The Royal We is getting thrown out on his royal ass because they’re selling the joint and he can’t afford to buy it (hint!). Duane Raleigh from Rock and Ice Magazine joins in for a discussion about …

Continue reading "Episode 37: The Safety Dance with Duane Raleigh."

On Episode 36 of the Enormocast, I sit down with return guest BJ Sbarra and local guide and teacher Mike Schneiter to discuss new routing and bolting. In this episode, we manage to say “bolt” enough times to probably overload the servers over at the Supertopo Forum. Mike and BJ share their vast knowledge of …

Continue reading "Episode 36: Choss Wranglers BJ Sbarra and Mike Schneiter."

On Episode 35 of the Enormocast, I lure Canadian climber Jen Olson to my closet with promises of glory. After giving her the tour of two thirds of the Bromuda Triangle (Rifle, Black Canyon, but not Indian Creek), Jen finally agreed to get on the mic and fill us in on how she ended up …

Continue reading "Episode 35: Jen Olson- Lucky Number 7."

On this very special episode of the Enormocast, I post up a virtually unedited recording of the very first Live Enormocast. Recorded Saturday morning, April 27th at Steve’s Guitars in Carbondale, and during the 5Point Film Festival, the Live Ecast features guests Jonathan Thesenga, Kelly Cordes, Austin Siadak, Anson Fogel, and Jeff Hollenbaugh. Also, Sonnie …

Continue reading "Episode 34: LIVE ENORMOCAST!"

On Episode 33 of the Enormocast, I lure yet another subject to the Rodeway Inn in Salt Lake City (I think I deserve a couple free nights for all this publicity, eh?). Wunderkind Jonathan Siegrist sits down to reveal his climbing pedigree and a stunning background on big routes. He tells of early beat-downs in …

Continue reading "Episode 33: Jonathan Siegrist- Born to be a bad (and by that, we mean good)."

Hola! Bienvenidos al Episodio 32 con Paige Claassen. I am taking time out of my precious Euro climbing vacation to post this up for you! On this installment, I meet up with Paige in a seedy hotel in Salt Lake City during the darkest days of winter to find out what makes her tick. She …

Continue reading "Episode 32: Paige Claassen- Climbing isn't everything."

Ho, Man! On Episode 31 of the Enormocast I lure Andrew Bisharat and Hayden Kennedy into the closet for an old-fashioned bro-down. Andrew and I discuss whether or not the recent ascent of La Dura Dura, AKA the hard hard hardest route in the world, even matters. Hayden tells the story of his Piolet d’Or …

Continue reading "Episode 31: Hayden Kennedy + Andrew Bisharat + PBR = Frothy Climbing Spray."

On Episode 30, I travel to a place called Gun Barrel to meet up with climber and author Matt Samet. We talk about his days developing Rifle, and his start as a climber. Yes, European listeners, we love guns so much we name our neighborhoods and towns after them. More importantly, we discuss the events …

Continue reading "Episode 30: Matt Samet- Climbing up from the depths of madness."

On Episode 29, I sit across a plastic Club Colombia table in Refugio La Roca from undercover bone-crusher Cody Roth. Despite appearances in Chuck Fryberger’s films and Andy Burr following Cody around like Paparazzi hunting Lohan, and despite him crushing 5.14 and V-hard, I postulate that Cody, AKA C.H.U.T, AKA The Critter, is an unknown …

Continue reading "Episode 29: Cody Roth- Climbing Europhiliac."

On Episode 28, I bag with one clean shot, a perfectly healthy free-range Honnold. Alex sits down in a clean, well-lit place to expound on his life in the glare of the klieg lights . He tells us what it was like to lock eyes with the beautiful and mysterious Lara Logan, what it was …

Continue reading "Episode 28: Alex Honnold- Calmer than you are."

On Episode 27, I chase down New Zealander Mayan Smith-Gobat in of all places, Grand Junction, Colorado. Mayan tells how she is holed up in the oddly frigid wasteland that is Colorado’s Western Slope to retool her mind and body into a killer android-like climbing machine. Who knew that GJ was such a hotbed of …

Continue reading "Episode 27: Mayan Smith-Gobat – Mama don't take no mess."

On Episode 26, we sit down in Denver, Colorado with young alpinist Keven Landolt. Kevin is facing down leukemia and still dreaming of the mountains. He fills us in on what goes through his mind as he fights to keep his dignity as his body fails him. From diagnosis through a bone marrow transplant and …

Continue reading "Episode 26: Kevin Landolt pushing back against the universe."

On Episode 25, our one year anniversary episode, we finish the Green River chronicles by floating and rapping about international climbing travel. Jonathan Thesenga and Brittany Griffith are both consummate world travelers and let us in on the beta for safe and satisfying touring abroad. From JT’s know before you go stance, to Brittany’s beta …

Continue reading "Episode 25: On tour with JT and the BAG."

On Episode 24, we take a 1 hour cruise to a deserted island in the Green River to meet up with Brittany Anne Griffith- affectionately known to her friends as the BAG. Two parts Mary Anne, one part Ginger, a dash of the professor, and a scosh of Mrs Howell for good measure, Brittany brings …

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On Episode 23 of the Enormocast, hotshot crack addict Mason Earle survives a near fatal fixie accident and arrives at the mobile studio ready to open his soul. We learn about his beginnings on the East Coast, his fateful first days in Indian Creek, a shameful ascent of El Cap and more. We are both …

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On Episode 22, Andrew Bisharat and I discuss why hard climbing is so important to everyone. We hit on grades, appropriate hero worship, why Americans are the lifestyle climbers of the world, and how Ecstasy, sex, and climbing go together . Also, unbeknownst to him, we decide that Chris Sharma is the world’s saddest climber. …

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On Episode 21, James Lucas and I take a break from smoozing the Trade Show ladies to sit down for a chat. James dishes on his pie baking bombs and bad breaks, his career as perhaps the world’s only living redpoint soloist, his upcoming book about the Stone Monkey era in Yosemite, and how try …

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On Episode 20, return co-hosts BJ Sbarra and Steve Denny return to tackle listener mail. Among other fascinating tangents, we address passing slower parties, climbing addiction, daisy chains (again), why the post office blows, how to approach gumbies, and much much more. Also, my favorite email of all time (so far). Thrilling and spontaneous, Episode …

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On Episode 19 of the Enormocast, co-host Chris Parker and I sit down for a rambling chat with one of the last Mountain Mystics, Jeff Jackson. Consummate climber, first ascensionist, yogi, father, husband, musician, Jeff has more than one engaging story to tell. Listen in as Chris and I sit jaw-dropped as Jefe describes his …

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Episode 18 is here to make you feel lazy and weak. You’re welcome. Listen in as rock climbing legend Randy Leavitt admits to being good at everything he tries. He works harder than you do, he wastes less time than you do, he’s smarter, stronger, and, frankly, better looking. This guy makes the Energizer Bunny …

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While posted up in the Rodeway Inn in Salt Lake City, the Enormocast hosted author and online mogul Brendan Leonard. After a series of shocks to his system, Brendan finally said “the hell with it” and packed up his Astro Van and hit the road. Now he brings us his witty and soulful writing from …

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On Episode 16 of the Enormocast, I park the mobile studio in the park in Lander, WY for a conversation with climber and artist Kate Rutherford. Often confused for Laura Ingalls, Kate fills us in on her upbringing in the Alaskan bush. She has lead a charmed life that recently found her on the top …

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One Episode 15, I go in search of my lost youth by sitting down to rap with two young killers who quietly get it done. Everyman road warrior Steve Denny fills us in on how he saved Alex Honnold’s triple wall solo in Yosemite. Henry Nadell wants to do it all NOW, not when he …

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The Enormocast lures two new guests into the Rocky Mountain Bunker to banter about partners and why they bring more to the table than just a good belay. Guests Michael Logan and Jen Vennon Bisharat dish on what are the key qualities a partner has to have to carry the honor of holding their ropes. …

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On Episode 13, I meet up in the mobile studio with infamous climber Cedar Wright. Cedar fills us in on his hippy upbringing, his crash course in free soloing, and his days in the dirt in Yosemite Valley. Even though Cedar is known for his sarcastic wit, the Enormocast brings out his serious side as …

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On Episode 12, I am joined by two lovely ladies, Gracyn and Tracy, in the home studio to hash out why its so hard for guys and girls to just be climbing buds. Gracyn thinks every guy wants her, I cop to being in love with every climbing partner I’ve ever had- male or female, …

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Episode 11 is EPIC! Craig Demartino takes us blow by blow through his climbing accident which culminates (spoiler alert!) in losing his leg. He fights to survive, then he fights to regain his life, then fights to climb better than he ever did. The real deal doesn’t even come close to describing this guy. Guts, …

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On the first double-digit episode of the Enormocast, co-host Kelly Cordes and I discuss the the films we saw at the 5Point Film Fest and outdoor film making in general. We end up deciding that climbers are the nerds of extreme sports. Turns out that big wave surfers and big falls kayakers are way, way …

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In Episode 9, we start with a lengthy, then a short, then again lengthy discussion of author and climbing-crusader Sam Lightner’s special daisy chain. If you are still awake, then keep listening for stories of the infamous FOICers, Thailand, and why the Access Fund has your back. Not unlike his daisy chain, Sam can be …

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Episode 8 finds me in climber and flyer Steph Davis’ double-wide contending with her cat, Mao, her dog, Cajun, and her husband, Mario all futzing around in the background. Man, I can’t wait for PBR to build me a studio. Anyway, Steph and I mostly just reminisce about our shared past, but we do talk …

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In Part 2 of my epic interview with Hayden Kennedy, we get to the bottom of the arguments against Jason Kruk and Hayden’s decision to chop the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre. Hayden withers under my pillorying verbal attack, let me tell you. Begging for mercy. I also beg PBR for a sponsorship. Do you …

Continue reading "Episode 7: Hayden Kennedy: Alpine Taliban or Patagonian Custodian™? (Part 2)"

Oh, man. On Episode 6 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a remote secret bunker deep in the Rockies with the man of the hour and my friend: Hayden Kennedy. HK comes clean about his season in Patagonia with Jason Kruk and their now infamous decision to remove the headwall bolt ladders on Cesare …

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On Episode 5, I sit down in Studio A with author and climber Andrew Bisharat. Andrew warms up to the idea of using his voice instead of his pen to communicate with the outside world and explains his philosophy behind writing, climbing, why Rock and Ice is like his family, and the best and worst …

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On Episode 4, I hang out in BJ Sbarra’s kitchen fending off his vicious dog, Thunderpup, while he goes on and on and on about his big deal website, splitterchoss.com. Ooh, Outside Magazine’s Top Ten Climbing Blog list, ooh, seven years old, ooh launched my internet career. Blah, blah, blah, BARK. Anyway, we talk about …

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In episode 3, I park the Enormocast headquarters outside the Alpinist headquarters to talk with alpinist and internet sensation Kelly Cordes. Kelly reports on the old daze and new days in Estes Park, Colorado, the Ouray Icefest, and the world’s most inappropriate Halloween costume. Always a pleasure to talk with this simple, yet complicated, dark, …

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Chris and guest host Lisa Hathaway retire once again to the Oasis in Moab to explore the deep psychological underpinnings behind secret cliffs. Necessary evil or just the realm of egotistical dickheads? Turns out it can all be explained by lewd metaphors involving blossoming sexuality.

Cold weather and no bouldering forces Lisa Hathaway and Chris into the shelter of the Oasis trailer on the inaugural episode of the Enormocast. They try to decide who would last longer in a Zombie Apocalypse (ZA), and Chris dishes on why Italians are sorta like deer.